So the previous problem with the idle was the IAC motor which turned out good. Now the truck if you run it long enough it will stall/stumble. First of all I have a fuel filter on order so that will get put on next. I had to have it towed home 50 miles on Friday when it was nice and hot out(for Minnesota anyways). It appeared to be a coil problem in symptoms so at this point it has a new coil, cap, rotor, pickup assembly, stepper motor, plugs are gapped and are almost new with no soot buildup. Adjusted plug wires so none are touching each other or close together. Replaced the ASD relay and moved the wiring around to see if there is a break in the wiring. The two wire temp sensor has been replaced and the PO changed the water pump. New thermostat. Dash temp unit is not reliable yet, but the engine compartment seems really hot. Set the timing by the book using the 10 degree mark and the two wire temp sensor unplugged warm at idle speed. New ignition coil is real hot to the touch and the new ASD relay is also hot. Timing was retarded when I started and now the truck has no performance. Two things is the 10 BTDC correct for the timing with the temp sensor unplugged and the coil/ASD thing is that a corroded wire driving the amps up, it has 12.8 volts to the coil. One other thing I noticed when checking the PCM wiring for corrosion is one pin in the lower right hand corned was pulled out and I shoved it back in and is tight now could that have something to do with this. When I look at the FAQ section it would be 41 if that is the correct view of the picture. Advice is needed and appreciated. FYI I am working on getting some OEM Manuals.

 

I gather it's not a 95 or 96? What year is your truck?

RwP

 

Sorry 1990, auto 4wd, 3.9, I thought I had that info in the post.

 

So I'm feeling kind of stupid but thinking about the timing I may have gone the wrong way on the scale so it is retarded now. I will check tomorrow when I get time. That still should not cause the coil and asd to get hot. I changed the wires and plugs today so we will see what it runs like later.

 

So I finally got back to working on the truck. I had messed up the timing and now have it set correctly. Several things have happened . Got the books and trying to figure out new/old issues. The fuel pump seems to be loosing the prime and it cranks a long time before firing. The engine compartment seems to be running real hot. The ignition coil which is new and measures 1.9 ohms is so hot you can barely touch it after 1/2 hour of driving, I have read that it should be less around 1.5 ohms but I would think that would increase the amp draw. The ASD which is new is also very warm. I have checked the wiring but not to the point of stripping it all the way down to separate wires. Engine runs OK when first started after getting it primed up with decent performance but when you restart hot it is a miserable mess, backfiring jerking and spluttering and not very good. The t-stat is a new 180 and the water pump was changed when I bought it. Can see through the radiator real well and have run water through washing the outside with no change. I cleaned up the dash temp sensor so it stay a one temp but that does not show it hot. Am I on the right track to replace the radiator, lower the t-stat temp and replace the fuel pump. I would like to run this but It would not stay running on the free way and I had to trailer it home, luckily it was not on the interstate-that would cost me 400 to get it moved a couple miles. I am strongly contemplating getting some thing different as I cannot trust this like I would like to and the books don't really address these problems.

 

If engine temp stays where it should, then there is no need to change the radiator. If you have electrical components getting hotter than they should be, you need to go thru and clean all your grounds. Start there, see what happens.

 

OK . Up date. So I cleaned and checked the grounds that I can find and added a couple just for good measure. I did go back to some of the earlier work and found some how I bent/shoved one of the two wire temp sensor pins in so I had to replace that. Starts better. runs ok with stumbling. Coil I wired to a dedicated circuit that is operated by a relay from the asd and it still gets hot. Might be normal. Decided to check fuel system pressure and this is where I am at. Reading 10 on my gauge with the line directly into my gauge. Pressure does not hold. Pressure does not start to rise until after engine is cranked several seconds. Pressure does not rise with just key on at any time. Fuel line at throttle body not full of gas/under pressure when the line was removed. After the test of 20-30 seconds I did not have any gas at the gauge. I do not see any fuel leaking at the lines. Fuel filter was just replaced. The book says 14.5 psig so that tells me the pump is not up to the job. What concerns me is why no pressure with key on for a second or two and the draining back or lack of fuel. The few parts stores that sell pumps that give a pressure rating they are only 12 so where do I get the right pump? The pressure regulator on the back of the throttle body had a ripped o-ring that I replaced but may have the wrong one can that let gas bypass and go down the return? Bolts are loose to drop the tank but I do not want to keep dropping the tank and it is half full now. Another thing when I had the tank down to fix the clamp the spiral tubing seemed to have rust on it, is that under pressure that it could be a leak also? Any help is appreciated.