I'll repost this topic here the Dakota section. Wondering if you Dakota guys and gals have experienced a hard to get to O2 sensor connector like I've found in my 2000 Durango? It's like the release end of the connector is hard to get to between the transmission and floorboard. Not sure how to get enough room to release the connector? The picture is a little deceiving. There is very little room here. Wondering if there is any way to gain more free slack on the connector end? Suggestions?

 

If you are replacing the sensor, just cut the pigtail, then you should be able to pull the harness down on the other side, where you can actually SEE what you are doing.

 

Good idea...

Without getting under there and poking around, I'm wondering where the other end of the O2 sensor harness connects to? And how much slack I safely pull free? The other "problem" as you can see the razor sharp heat shield right near the connector as well. Thanks Mopar. Thanks for thinking of anybody working on these things. But I guess this sensor has lasted 26-years. It is still working with NO codes. But I'm almost positive when I button up the new exhaust manifold gaskets, this sensor will finally decide to go bad. Now is the time to do it.

 

I think it comes down the drivers side of the motor, along with the trans harness, and breaks off somewhere below the cab. It's likely got a push-pin feller to hold it in place up there though..... You should be able to pull a fair bit down, at least enough to make unplugging it easier. Unfortunately, to plug it back in again.... gonna need your armored arm with the three elbows.

 

I did this back in 2020. I don't remember exactly what I used to get the plug off. I have all sorts of tools to include long handle pliers straight and angled and quite a collection of surgical clamps of all sizes and angles. LOL Try using long screwdrivers to engage the plug before you unhook the plug from the body.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...m_content=post

Taken from post #25

"The old sensors 'looked' to be in great shape. I'm keeping them as spares since they were technically still good. The downstream was easily removed with an adjustable wrench. The upstream was a bit more challenging cause the transmission pan was in the way. I managed to find a rusty old Chinese 22 mm wrench and was able to lean it just enough to make it work. Getting the plug off where it was mounted was a beyotch, but it's done"

 

Thanks Dodgevity.

So I set out to replace the valve stem seals, valve springs, lash adjusters, and rocker arms. While I had everything torn down, I thought myself, well now would be a great time to stop procrastinating on the exhaust leaks and replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. So when I pulled the inner fender liners out to do that job, I noticed the O2 sensor sitting there in plain view and there again, thought to myself, this would be a great time to replace the O2 sensor. So here we go. Just doing the upstream sensor for now. The downstream can be done after I catch my breath on knuckle busting. Oh, and then I bought a new fuel pump on a good sale so that will be done very soon as well. Hoping to get a few more trouble free years out of the old girl. Again, picked it up for next to nothing. And I am having some fun doing this work as an impromptu sort of restoration project. It's not a daily at this point but will be my driver soon with the daughter getting her drivers license and claiming the family sedan.

Anyway. Glad my Durango isn't some sort of factory defect with limited service movement on the O2 sensor wire harness or something. I have been pondering if removing the floorboard heat shield would help the process if nothing other than avoiding probable cuts. Don't know what that might entail but will find out soon. I may have to follow your example and buy some extended needle nose pliers for sure. Do you recall at all if you were able to gain some extra slack or was it pretty much set in place? Again, thanks a lot Mopar. Just an extra inch or two would have been thoughtful.

Thanks everyone for the helpful comments.

BTW, I see in your profile pic, a silver early 2000s Honda Accord. If so do you still have it? Asking because I have one too.

 

I honestly don't recall the specifics of how I removed the sensors. I do think it might be easier to get it unplugged before you unhook it from the chassis, or body. Surprisingly, I didn't see much of an mpg difference with the new sensors, despite having over 300K mi on the old ones. Changing the 4.7L springs and stem seals makes the whole job much harder than say, just replacing rockers and lifters. You need a lot more room to compress the spring enough for cap removal and especially the install. That in turn necessitates removing the fuel rail so you can swing the wrench all the way. I cussed the whole process, but it was the covid era and I had plenty of garage time. I haven't changed the fuel pump yet. The truck is super reliable though. I recently drove it over 2000K in a short space of time due to family events out of state, back in Dec-Jan. Lately I haven't been driving it much due to travel for work and due to the crazy gas prices.

That brings me to the Honda, it was a 2003 with the 2.4L engine. Reliable as they come. I sold it years ago once I got my electric vehicle. With gas prices where they are now, that's what I drive now. I charge for free at work, so its very hard to justify 14 mpg.

 

Yes, I already have the valve stem seals and springs replaced. DONE! I'm going make a post about my experience over in the Durango section. And you're right. It was one of the "hardest", involved auto maintenance jobs I've ever done and I do a lot of stuff myself.

 

Concur with Dodgevity...I did this about 7 yrs back (bad O2 code) and had to get a bit creative with long, skinny tools. Am looking at doing this again soon as it's time for a new clutch and will need to drop the entire upstream exhaust assembly. PITA, but it can be done. Seem to recall I was able to wedge a small flat-blade screwdriver into the release clip, then grab the lower plastic clip with channel locks and (gently) pull it apart. Look at one of the other somewhat more accessible O2 clips to get a sense of what you'll need to do (blindly) in order to release the clip.

 

Today I got the O2 sensor out and replaced. What worked for me was removing the heat shields mounted to the firewall and floorboard. Once I did that, I had plenty of room, well, enough room.

Now over in the Durango forum, I'm going to post my OEM Supplier finding. Information I wish I had prior to ordering my part.

Here's the little guy right here. After 26-years, it's still in great shape and working perfectly ->