Originally posted here, but since I am desperately seeking help, I'm posting it everywhere I can think of.


THE ISSUE....
I have a 1993 2WD 3.9L V6 Dodge Dakota Sport that continues to blow the 20A auto shut down fuse underneath the hood. From everything I could dig up I was under the impression that it _had_ to be a short somewhere: first I came across someone mentioning that it might be the O2 sensor harness; it might be the three-to-one wire splice (with the red/white-stripe wires); it could _possibly_ be a bad ground; could it even be a bad battery?

Admittedly I'm a car novice at best—I'm definitely no expert—but from snooping around it just seems like it _isn't_ a short, because every place I've been led looks fine.


LEADING UP TO THE ISSUE....
I've had similar occurances to my current situation three separate times, but before this the ASD fuse has never blown.

The first night I was on my way home with a buddy of mine, and as I came to an intersection my truck began to sputter a bit—it just wasn't running well. I thought I might be out of gas, since my light had been on for a little while, so I pulled into gas station which I just happened to be near by and put a few gallons in. Pulling out of the station, though, I realized that the problem did not cease. A few hundred meters down the road I pulled into a parking lot for a liquor store where my oil pressure gauge dropped and my truck shut down. Not knowing what the problem was, and it being too dark to check my oil levels, we hurried back to the gas station and bought a couple of quarts of oil. I put them in, but they didn't seem to help. I tried and tried, and on a final attempt—just as it was looking as if I'd have to walk the rest of the way home—I just held the key and eventually she fired up. I thought it was a strange occurance, but I didn't put an extraordinary amount of thought into the event.

Night two didn't go quite as well. In a different area my truck showed the same symptoms: bad response, loss of power, sputtering. Again, I pulled in to the closest gas station and put in a few gallons; when I started the truck up again it did the exact same thing it did the week prior: oil pressure dropped and it stalled. I didn't put any more oil in it this time because I now knew that I had more than enough, but I continued to turn the key and test my luck—I didn't have any . I left the truck in the gas station's parking lot overnight and stayed at a friends house. The next afternoon my buddy had is dad come into town to take a look at it. When I tried starting it up the next day we had some luck: there was a brief time when the engine was _trying_ to fire, and when it did I pumped the gas quickly and it started right up. This time I thought that it was more peculiar, but we were under the impression it was water in my gas or something.

Day three was the killer.... Since spring was starting to show and the cold weather had pretty much ended, it hadn't shown any problems for almost two weeks—since we were thinking it was water/ice in the gas this made sense. Me and some friends pulled an "all nighter," and when I went to head home the next afternoon I started my truck up (and it started up fine), shifted into reverse to back out, and it stalled. It had done this before in the past, so I shifted it into neutral and tried starting it again and again; no luck. We tried a variety of things and after a while realized that I was getting no spark; thinking it was a fuel problem was now out the window.

Upon further inspection I noticed that two fuses under the hood were blown: the 20A ASD fuse (which I mentioned) and a 5A ign. off draw fuse. We stuck larger fuses in both to test it out, and it started! I was excited, so I shut 'er down and got a ride to the auto parts shop to get some new fuses. When I got back I threw them in and once again it started right back up, but this time for only about 25 seconds before it blew the 20A; the 5A was fine.


WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR....
As I've previously mentioned, my knowledge of vehicles is not excellent and I'm a novice at best. I hope that someone can offer some sort of help, though. For example:
*Diagnosing a _specific_ problem and pointing me in the right direction
*Helping me narrow down my search by asking more questions or something
*Should I just throw a 25A or 30A in there and call it good?
*Or should I just run it off a cliff and look for something new?


OTHER INFO THAT MAY OR MAY NOT BE USEFUL....
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t637599.html - a similar problem that points to the O2 sensor harness
http://www.topix.net/forum/autos/dod...9PCFMAVQB6G#c2 - where the 3-to-1 splice is brought up (among other places)

Also, in 2004 the heater core went bad, and when I brought it in for repairs my truck was returned to me with (1) the dome light no longer functioning (2) my radio not working. (2) was cleared up when an audio shop installed a CD player for me, bypassing a yellow wire that must have been no good, but (1) is still an issue.
http://www.dakotausa.com/vBulletin/s...mp;postcount=5 - this guy seems to have the same issue, and I'm wondering if this is somehow—some way—related to my current problem.

If anyone needs pictures or anything like that to help I can provide them upon request. If anything needs to be cleared up, let me know. Hopefully this post isn't too wordy, but I figured being as specific as I can would avoid as much confusion as possible. Thank you to anyone who responds!

 

Is the computer showing any codes? If so, what are they? If you don't know how to check, try going to this page. Have you verified the ASD Relay is good?

Your dome light should be working now. According to the wiring diagram for my 91 Dakota, the 5 amp fuse in the power distribution center controls the: time delay relay, underhood lamp, glove box light, dome lamps, clock electronics, radio memory, ignition switch lamp, courtesy lamp, mirror reading lamp, and power mirrors. Your old radio was probably still good also.

 

Thanks for the response; all help is welcome!

Codes: I will check them later today and post what I find, but I'm not sure it's going to be any help since I was told " Your truck is pre OBD 2 so pulling codes isn't going to help" on another forum. But it's worthless not to try, so I will check anyways. Thanks for the link to that thread for the help.

I hadn't realized it until literally right now, but you're right, my dome light works again; and I'll try to explain my situation with my radio....
After a few months of driving with no radio I had enough money to buy a head unit and have it installed. This stereo was stolen a year or so later, so I bought a cheapo off of ebay and had a go at installing it on my own this time. When I did this I could find what they had done to get it working when I had it installed: what they did to bypass the issue was put a new yellow wire—called 12v ignition (constant) in the manual I found online to help me—into my in-cab fusebox (shown here) that goes back under my dash and into my stereo harness. So plugging in that 5Aer under the hood should have made the old yellow wire usable again, but now that I've realized the dome light works again, I'm pretty sure this is completely unrelated now.

I'll get codes up (if it works) soon. Thanks!

 

No luck. I just did the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence quite a few times and each time I didn't see any "check engine" light go on at all. The only light that showed was the oil light, but that always shows when the radio is on but the truck isn't running.

 

Your check engine light (along with the oil pressure, seatbelt, and brake light) should come on every time you turn the key to the on position.If it isn't, it might be burnt out. First, gohere and check to make sure all of your fuses/relays/etc are good. Your panel should be very similar if not exact.

If the fuses are okay, then you'll probably have to replace the bulb. To do so, you need toremove the instrument cluster.I've added some instructions below. I'll keep doing some research to see if I can come up with something else.

Once you've got the bulb working, you need to pull the codes. Oh, your truck is pre-OBDII, but you still have a computer and it does store the codes in it.

This is from the Autozone website.I've added the stuff in red. You should only need to do the yellow highlighted stuff.

Dakota
See Figure 7
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the lower column cover….it's the panel below the steering column. It's held on by 2 screws
2. Remove the instrument cluster bezel - 2 screws on bottom of bezel on either side of the steering column and 8 screws around the face of the bezel. Cluster removal is not necessary if just removing gauges.
3. When only removing gauge(s) or the speedometer, remove the trip odometer reset **** if equipped, remove the mask and lens assembly and remove the desired gauge from the cluster. Disconnect the speedometer cable if removing the speedometer.

Fig. 7: Exploded view of the common Dakota instrument cluster and bezel

4. If equipped with automatic transmission, remove the lower column cover and disconnect the gear indicator cable. If you have an automatic, place the gearshift lever in "D" position - make sure your parking brake is on. Remove the U-shaped retaining clip and disconnect the gearshift indicator cable at the steering column. Also, if you have a tilt steering column, put it in the lowest position - or even easier, remove the 2 bolts holding the column to the dash and rest the steering wheel on the seat.
5. Remove the screws attaching the cluster to the instrument panel - 4 screws.
6. Pull the cluster out and disconnect all wiring and the speedometer cable. Remove the cluster from the vehicle.
Turn the cluster over - gauges facing down - and remove the bulb holder that's in the lower right corner - that will be the "Check Engine" bulb. You might as well check all the bulbs to see if they're good. NOTE: If the bulb on the lower left corner is missing or burnt out - I would recommend that you NOT replace it. It's the "MAINT RQRD" light. It automatically comes on to remind you to have the emissions equipment checked for proper operation - it does not mean something is broke, just that they want you to take it to the dealership to have the technician check the emissions stuff and reset the light. My light "was" on but since I don't know how to reset the light, my bulb accidentally fell out.
To install:
7. Position the cluster and feed the gear indicator cable through its slot.
8. Connect all wiring and install the speedometer cable to the speedometer. Make sure it is securely clicked in place.
9. Install the cluster retaining screws. Connect the gearshift indicator cable.
10. Install the cluster bezel.
11. Connect the negative battery cable and check all gauges and the speedometer for proper operation. Make sure the gearshift indicator is properly aligned.
My truck is has a manual transmission so I have never done the below procedures. They are from the 1991 factory service manual.
For the installation of the cluster, connect the speedometer cable and wire connectors. Route the gearshift indicator cable down through the instrument panel slot.
Position the cluster and install the 4 retaining screws.
Place gearshift lever into "D" DETENT POSITION.
Pull gearshift indicator cable down until indicator needle is between "R" and "N". Release the cable and allow it to SNAP back to "1" position. Repeat, then pull cable far enough to hook into slot, make sure pointer does not go past "R".
Install U-shaped retaining clip.
Put the shift lever into "P" to make the indicator self-adjust.
Install cluster bezel and steering column cover.

That should be it, hopefully!

 

Oops....I messed that up. Let's try this again:

Some of this is from the Autozone website and some from me, and some from the 91 factory service manual.You should only need to do the stuff in bold italics.
Dakota
See Figure 7
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the lower column cover….it's the panel below the steering column. It's held on by 2 screws
2. Remove the instrument cluster bezel - 2 screws on bottom of bezel on either side of the steering column and 8 screws around the face of the bezel. Cluster removal is not necessary if just removing gauges.
3. When only removing gauge(s) or the speedometer, remove the trip odometer reset **** if equipped, remove the mask and lens assembly and remove the desired gauge from the cluster. Disconnect the speedometer cable if removing the speedometer.

Fig. 7: Exploded view of the common Dakota instrument cluster and bezel

4. If equipped with automatic transmission, remove the lower column cover and disconnect the gear indicator cable. If you have an automatic, place the gearshift lever in "D" position - make sure your parking brake is on. Remove the U-shaped retaining clip and disconnect the gearshift indicator cable at the steering column. Also, if you have a tilt steering column, put it in the lowest position - or even easier, remove the 2 bolts holding the column to the dash and rest the steering wheel on the seat.
5. Remove the screws attaching the cluster to the instrument panel - 4 screws.
6. Pull the cluster out and disconnect all wiring and the speedometer cable. Remove the cluster from the vehicle.
Turn the cluster over - gauges facing down - and remove the bulb holder that's in the lower right corner - that will be the "Check Engine" bulb. You might as well check all the bulbs to see if they're good. NOTE: If the bulb on the lower left corner is missing or burnt out - I would recommend that you NOT replace it. It's the "MAINT RQRD" light. It automatically comes on to remind you to have the emissions equipment checked for proper operation - it does not mean something is broke, just that they want you to take it to the dealership to have the technician check the emissions stuff and reset the light. My light "was" on but since I don't know how to reset the light, my bulb accidentally fell out.
To install:
7. Position the cluster and feed the gear indicator cable through its slot.
8. Connect all wiring and install the speedometer cable to the speedometer. Make sure it is securely clicked in place.
9. Install the cluster retaining screws. Connect the gearshift indicator cable.
10. Install the cluster bezel.
11. Connect the negative battery cable and check all gauges and the speedometer for proper operation. Make sure the gearshift indicator is properly aligned.
My truck is has a manual transmission so I have never done the below procedures. They are from the 1991 factory service manual.
For the installation of the cluster, connect the speedometer cable and wire connectors. Route the gearshift indicator cable down through the instrument panel slot.
Position the cluster and install the 4 retaining screws.
Place gearshift lever into "D" DETENT POSITION.
Pull gearshift indicator cable down until indicator needle is between "R" and "N". Release the cable and allow it to SNAP back to "1" position. Repeat, then pull cable far enough to hook into slot, make sure pointer does not go past "R".
Install U-shaped retaining clip.
Put the shift lever into "P" to make the indicator self-adjust.
Install cluster bezel and steering column cover.

That should be it, hopefully!

 

Hmm... I'm running into all sorts of problems. I've taken everything apart in hopes that I had a burnt out bulb (I checked all the fuses and every single one of them in every single slot on the entire truck is good) and that I would be able to use the codes to aid in finding a problem. I got down to them, got the "CHECK ENGINE" bulb out, and it looked fine. Skeptical still, I switched it with the bulb in the seatbelt slot—didn't do it.

When I turn the key to the ON position, the only lights that turn on of all the indicators are the oil and seatbelt lights; everything else stays off.

 

I suppose you could buy a code scanner at a parts place or trace the circuit for the check engine light. On my 91, the check engine light signal issocket "L" on the redinstrument cluster connector. Look at the back of your instrument cluster andtrace the circuit for the check engine light socket back to the pins for the connector.Now,find the corresponding socket on the red connector.Use a test light/DVM to see if you're getting power at the socket when the key is first turned to the "ON" position. There should be power for about 3 seconds when you first turn on the key. If there is, the problem is in the instrument cluster somewhere. If there isn't, check the wire color for that socket (mine is black with a pink stripe) and start tracing it back to the computer. See if there are any problems with the wire. Other than that, I don't know what else to do besides buying/borrowing a cheap scanner to see if it'll pull the codes.