This is the build thread. I will lock this thread to keep all the posts in order.
Here is the discussion thread of the swap. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post2433707

This is my Solid Axle Swap/Straight Axle Swap/Conversion (SAS). I got a Dana 44 driver side drop from a 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer.

I pulled the axle compete with brakes, leaf springs, steering linkages, shock mounts from my local U-Pull It for $180.00. The axle has full time hubs, I will upgrade to manual locking hubs sometime in the future, very easy to do. It has 6x5.5 lug pattern (Very Common).



The plan is to do this swap with the least amount of welding. I have some ¼in 2.5x3.5 angle iron. I will bolt that up to the frame and mount up the spring hangers below it, and weld in some gussets. I will have the hangers and perches and various other brackets made by a local HD Spring shop.

I ordered 4.11:1 gear ratios for the new front axle and my rear Chry 8.25 (With No-Slip Locker). I ordered from www.ringpinion.com USA Standard gears. They are to be a little noisy but with the 33 Muds I will always have some road noises.

It all started by the removal of the axle from its donor Jeep. Then comes the clean up, the engine dripped oil all over the axle. After tons of wire brush cleaning and tons of quarters at the car wash it was all clean. Then disassembly and install the new gears.



Now the disassembly of the stock 4wd components. And the cutting of all the stock mounting brackets. I used a cut off wheel and a Sawzall. When I have more time I will grind down all the welds from the brackets.

 

Front Crossmember cut to clear the driveshaft. I also cut it just below the factory anti-sway bar mount just in case I can reuse it. I made a bracket to hold up the Crossmember on the cut side. So I can still bolt up the transmission oil pan skid plate I made.

 

I mounted the front mounts first. Then with the springs fully compressed I marked and mounted up the rear mounts. After tweaking I finally got the correct positions of the brackets. I had to redo it all once more, I was hitting the springs on turns. My last choice was to move the mounts inward and cut off the front giant crossmember under the radiator for clearance since the springs would hit it. Since I had the rears in the correct place from previous tries I just had to move the front over a good 3in or so in and just angle the rears to match.

I had some ¼in angle iron that I cut 5in wide and mounted them on the front section of the frame rail. Bolted on the side and underneath for extra strength. Then mounted the hitch underneath them with another angle iron plate. Then mounted the leaf spring mounts under the hitch. I was able to mock up the front mounts with the springs unloaded which the crossmemeber didn't get in the way.

I used ½in bolts to mount them up. Yes they are Grade 5, but I will get it all fully welded once done. Grade 8 is not needed when it is fully welded up. Grade 8’s are too expensive when you need 20-up bolts for the project, plus welding services.

Here are the pictures of it bolted and tacked in place, awaiting for final welding. Also threw in a good number of 1/4in gussets.

 

For the transmission support cross-member, I cut a 7in 1/4in wall round pipe basically in half and notch it to fit the cross-member and added in some gussets. Weld it in so the bottom can be cut out to clear the driveshaft. A 1/4 2in square tube was cut and welded in to support the top. 1/2in plate was added in for gussets. Once it is fully welded I will cut off the bottom section so it won't get distorted during welding.



Also, my wheel adapters came in for my spare tire. So my fronts are 6x5.5 Rear 6x4.5. I bought these adapters to be able to use a 6x5.5 spare for the rear if needed.



Here are my new rims for the front. Same as the rear just different bolt pattern.

 

It came time for final welding. I found a guy on Craigslist that is a retired welder and does it on his spare time. Reference samples looked good, and for $50 an hour for a mobile welder. It took 2 trips and about 5 hours total. $237 for 99% of all the welding done with quality/strong welds and done by an experienced welder. I still got the shock mounts and spring perches to be welded but that will be later on in the project.

 

Photos will be uploaded soon.

 

I cleaned up the slag/flux the best I could with a hammer. I gave up on trying to make it perfect and cleaned up the thick chunks, I got tired and gave up, so I didn't take the grinder to it.. I painted the parts to give a good look, and I guess for rust protection. LOL Although here in the desert you don’t need it.
I mounted up the leaf springs and started aligning the axle side to side to get it in its final resting spot. Hopefully I can get it back on its wheels Tuesday.


Here are the final welding pics.

 

I needed to match the rear of my truck to the front. So I needed a lift without cheater blocks. So a Shackle mount flip and a longer shackle will be done.

I first got my mounts from http://www.gatsbycars.com/dodge.html
The rears are exactly the same as Ram full size trucks. I can verify the bolt holes are perfect. 1/4in thick nice and strong. Easy bolt in no welding or drilling (if you want that is).



I also got 12 Grade 8 1/2in bolts. Stock brackets only used 4 of the 6 holes. I might as well and use all 6 bolts for extra strength.

So first I started by removing the bed. I didn't want to be grinding with the grinder in my face. I was so easy to remove with a few friends to help lift it.

Next came out the cut off wheel to cut off the rivet heads off. The tops very easy, lowers to some time. Gridded down the rest of the heads and knocked off the stock mount. Then cut off the rest of the rivet body, cut it close to frame without gouging into it. Got a punch and a good hammer and only took a few hits. Each side 15mins. Very easy!!!





The frame holes are slightly under 1/2. Just had to run the drill to make exactly 1/2in. Dropped in the stock 4 and drill the other 2, with the mount as the perfect template. Dropped in the last 2 and tightened them all down.




Put the bed back and reinstalled the stock shackles. For me I need more so I didn't bolt them up, just used the bolts to mock up. I got 3.25in more lift with stock shackles. I will order a Rams 2in lift shackles. The only note I need to say is the Dakota stock shackle hole is 1/2in with the thread smaller. The new mount is 5/8. The lift shackles will fix this, but if others want to use stock bolts may need to use some kind of insert to keep it centered.

 

Right now I am installing the new gears under the rear axle. But I got a few parts I'll list on here.

I got some Heim Joints (Rod Ends) 3/4in with some Jam nuts, Tube adapters 1.25 tube x .120 wall. I got those from www.summitracing.com

Misalignment spacers and Reducer spacers for the pitman arm (since I already drilled the tie rod end hole to 3/4). From http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/
The pitman arm is a drop from a Jeep TJ, bought it new from www.ebay.com
Damn that pitman arm is some strong steel. I recommend to take to a machine shop with carbide bits to get it done right. High Speed steal didn't it cut good. The tie rod end hole just needed to be enlarged, for my application.
I still need to buy some DOM tubing and cut and weld it to the Tube adapters.

What I had hard time finding is a good picture of a Heim Joint with and without the
Misalignment spacers. Notice in my picture the difference of the joints, one with the misalignment spacers and one without, big difference. (I didn't use the misalignment spacers or the reducer spacers)





I bought some lift shackles from autozone. They are 2.5in longer than stock, they are adjustable and have a 9/16 holes while stock is 1/2. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=204654_0_0_

 

I finished up the Rear axle so I was able to install it and take some measurements of the forward shift of the axle. I'm not sure where stock put the axle within the fender well. I measured from the center of the fender well. With the shackle flip brackets I used and stock shackles I got 1in forward. With the 2.5in lift shackles I got 1.5in total.

By looking at it you can barely tell that is shifted forward. My only concern is the driveshaft slip. If I were doing just the flip brackets the driveshaft would be fine even at full suspension drop. But with the lift shackles I don't have enough clearance forward for the driveshaft slip.

So I ordered these Zero Rate Add A Leafs today. They will shift the axle back 1in or 1.5in and put it to the center of the fender and give me my slip back in the driveshaft.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

With the lift shackles the rear is now even with the front when measuring from the fender lip. The driveway is at an angel so the front is taller and the passenger side is taller due to the driveway.

I hate to have a lift block but at least it is only 1in thick and not my main point of lift. So the leverage it will give will be minimal. And the added hight will help give the rear a better look.

I still have shocks brake lines and cables to relocate! More and More work!!

Here is the lift shackle installed.