Crankshaft & Camshaft Postions Sensor DIY

[hydrashocker]

Thanks to one of our members this DIY was made available so thanks datacop CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 4.7L V-8 ENGINE The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is located at the right-rear side of the engine cylinder block and is positioned and bolted into a machined hole. REMOVAL Disconnect CKP electrical connector at sensor. Remove CKP mounting bolt Carefully pry sensor from cylinder block in a rocking action with two small screwdrivers. Remove sensor from vehicle. Check condition of sensor o-ring. Note: You may find yourself in a situation where the crankshaft sensor is seized in the block and removal seems impossible. Here are the steps I took to get my seized sensor out Raise the front end of the vehicle in the air and secure it with proper jack stands Remove the front passenger tire Have an assistant "grab" a hold of the sensor with pliers through the notch in the wheel well liner, being careful not to "squeeze" to hard as to break the plastic. While your assistant applies removal pressure to the sensor (taking note to pull straight back and not rock), use a screwdriver from underneath the vehicle to rock the sensor back and forth Eventually, with the combination of removal pressure from your assistant, and the rocking of the sensor with the screwdriver, the sensor will "walk" out of the machine hole. INSTALLATION Clean out machined hole in engine block. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor o-ring. Install sensor into engine block with a slight rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as damage to o-ring may result. CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect electrical connector to sensor. --- CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 4.7L ENGINE The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L V - 8 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head REMOVAL Remove the air box on the right side of the engine (the air box holds the air filter) Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor Remove sensor mounting bolt Carefully pry sensor from cylinder head in a rocking action with two small screwdrivers. Check condition of sensor o-ring. INSTALLATION Clean out machined hole in cylinder head. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor o-ring. Install sensor into cylinder head with a slight rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as damage to o-ring may result CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder head. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.) torque. Connect electrical connector to sensor.

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[Trina G Amer]

Every site tells how to change camshaft but you gave wonderfully detailed instructions on the crankshaft!! I might kiss ya if my hubby wouldn't be mad!!


Trina

[DreadMongler]

Okay, I have a question. And I'm not super-car savvy, so bear with me.

My mechanic friend said there are two different kinds of transmission for the Durangos in this year. I can't remember what it's called, but one was the 'New and improved' at the time and everything on it is apparently much more complicated to get to. I have whatever that 'new and improved' transmission is on my 4WD 2001 Dodge Durango 4.7 Liter.

And I totally up a creek with this one? Or is the crankshaft position sensor in the same place regardless?

[shrpshtr325]

there is only ONE transmission that was offered with the 4.7l engine, and all the sensors are located in the same position on all 4.7s offered in the 1st generation trucks.

the only other transmission was offered on the other (bigger) engine

[Rawyzf]

I'm not here to argue at all, but I have the 4.7 and from the research I thought that in 2002 they introduced the 545RFE, some getting it, some not?

I know they are basically the same transmission with different TCM setups, but, they are technically different because of that.

45RFE and 545RFE I think were the two names.

[shrpshtr325]

yes there was a programming change late in the 2002 MY, however alot of dodge techs dont know about it so it was slipped in at the very end of the run (i suspect)

however the hardware(gears, sensors ect) is exactly the same, and since he is not having troubles caused by the trans control module the transmissions are EXACTLY the same, the only difference is the programming.

[Rawyzf]

Originally Posted by shrpshtr325

yes there was a programming change late in the 2002 MY, however alot of dodge techs dont know about it so it was slipped in at the very end of the run (i suspect)

however the hardware(gears, sensors ect) is exactly the same, and since he is not having troubles caused by the trans control module the transmissions are EXACTLY the same, the only difference is the programming.

Understood, moot point since this isn't the issue.

[DreadMongler]

No joy. It is terribly, horribly stuck in there. We were finally able to get it to rotate around, with the help of WD40 and pliers... and after two hours of wrestling last night we managed to get it out about 1/4''. But now the plastic is degrading more and more, and we are having difficulty getting a grip or any kind of leverage to pull it out.

We can't afford a mechanic, and I'm losing money by missing work because of this dang part. Does anyone have and tricks that would help?