First off I want to apologize for the long post. I just want to make sure all the info is here for quickest results.

I have been having some issues with my 00 Durango 4.7L. It started a couple months ago when I got in my car in the morning to go to work, turned the key to the first spot and lights came on like usual, turn to the second postion and nothing. No power...all instruments dead. I immediately assumed a dead battery. Since the battery is only a year old, I tried jumping it with no luck. Had the battery checked, all is fine. Checked the connections and tighten a few connections that were loose. Hooked the battery back up and lord and behold power returned and started up just fine. Ran fine until today. As I was driving to work the voltage gauge dropped to 8 (0?), check gauge and check engine lights both came on. Started sputtering and when it hit about 60 mph (2500rpm?). Drove it about another 5 miles to work and shut it down. Tried to start it again and same thing as before, no power. I read that I most likely reset the PCM when I disconnected the battery the first time, and again it started right up again. Half way home, the voltage dropped to 8 again started to sputter again. This time I pulled it over to the nearest exit, was one the freeway when this happened and checked the voltage on the battery and alternator while the vehicle was still running, 13v. Turned the motor off and car started up with no issues. Drove it to Autozone and had the alternator and battey checked, nothing no problems. I did use the three key turn method and I came up with these codes.

P0551 Power Steering Switch Failure...I have replaced this switch twice already in the 3yr I've had it.

P1391 Interm Loss of CMP or CKP

P1682 Charging Sys Voltage Too Low...alternator problem?

P0622 Alternator Field Not Switching Properly

Havent replaced the CMP or CKP yet, but may do that soon.
Im getting 13v still at the battery and at the alternator.

Im thinking since all these problems only seem to happen together and not seperately, that it might be the PCM going out. I have reset the PCM again to see if the problems dupicate or if different ones emerge.

Any thoughts suggestions, comments would help

 

I would start with the camshaft/crankshaft sensors.. both sensors provide a pulse signal that helps the PCM determine the timing of the fuel injectors and the ignition of each cylinder. I would also take a look around and look for any wires that would be burnt, broke, nicked or smashed causing a issue. Usually when the PCM goes its flat out dead meaning no starting till its replaced.

Also, the system voltage and the alt. codes could be a bad battery temp sensor.. the bat temp sensor tells the PCM how much to charge the batt from the alt.

 

Will do this tomorrow and see what happens. As for the charging/alternator issue someone suggested a worn serpentine belt might be causing it. Any thoughts on the diagnosis?

 

Update: Reset the PCM, went out and drove it pretty hard. Could not get the voltage or sputtering to happen but all the codes came back. So replacing sensors as suggested, and might as well replace battery temp. sensor as well.

 

Replace camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Local part stores do not have the battery temp sensor so I have to wait on that. Fixed all codes except the P0622, which is to be expected. Thank you from the advice. Will update if the battery temp sensor corrects the other problem. Tomorrow will be the big test, hopefully everything continues to work.

 

Excellent! hope everything works out.

 

Is there anyway to bypass the battery temp sensor until I get a new one?

 

No as it feeds directly to pcm it is vital to keep the beast running correctly. replace it or at least while waiting on the new one clean it up to see if it will feed temps properly to the pcm.

 

Update: Still waiting on the new part. Took advice and cleaned it up as best I could. Since this is my only vehicle I have been driving it with the check gauge light on. Been checking my voltage daily and have been getting 12.4 dvc until tonight. On my way home from doing some errands the air bag light came on and I cant get it to idle. It died completely and required me to jump it and limp it home. Checked the battery and it is now 8.2 dvc. Also popped up a P1492 Ambient/Battery Temp Sens Volts Too Hi. Along with P0622 Alternator Field Not Switching Properly So Im not sure if these problems are linked or if it has now caused additional damage. The P0622 code has been there since the beginning. Part should be here tomorrow.
Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated.

 

P1492 is basically the the PCM telling you that the sensor is dead. It's sending a input voltage that is not in the acceptable range.

P0622 means there is a open or shorted condition found in the generator field control circuit. With a bad battery temp sensor, that is part of the generator field control circuit i would say that should clear up with the new sensor. If not then the next step would be to break out the wire diagrams and start tracing wires looking for loose or broken ones.