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1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Front brake lock up AGAIN!

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Old 04-28-2011, 07:42 AM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Default Front brake lock up AGAIN!

1999 D had front R brake lock up in July. Replaced all parts including hoses.

D has 119000 miles and about 6K since last summers brake issues.

Went for a short trip about 7 miles total and noted it felt tight.
When I got home smell burning and wisp of smoke from R front wheel well.
The wheel was HOT compared to L side which was just warm.

What should I do this time. Seems ridiculous to replace everything all over again if the problem may continue to pop up. Do not want this to happen when out of state of with it full of family on a trip.

Why is this happening again.

Frustrated D owner.
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2011, 09:17 AM
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shrpshtr325 shrpshtr325 is offline
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is this a vehicle that you dont drive much? believe it or not but sitting long enough without use can cause rust to build up on the rail where the pads slide, making it so that they dont slide smoothly, this will make them hang up when you let off the brakes and drag (hence heating up that wheel)
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:23 AM
DrewsDurango98 DrewsDurango98 is offline
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if its not the caliber or the caliber pins....i would have to guess one of those valves by the brake booster, becuz its only happening to one tire. never seen those valves break though. i would first make sure that front caliber is moving freely and that the pins are well greased.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:37 AM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Little use. It's the 3rd vehicle. Last one used only if needed.
Usually once a week for a short trip if the 2 cars are out.

It's been out weekly at least once.

Thanks for the fast replies.

will pull it apart later today.
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:40 PM
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it sounds like its the caliper but you said you replaced all the brake parts... have you tried re-compressing the caliper that was having issues? might have gotten a bum caliper... i had to do that... replaced both front calipers cause they both took a dump...
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:30 PM
Bobman Bobman is offline
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Water / contaminated brake fluid will cause caliper pistons to set up as well. You may want to consider purging the brake fluid and replacing it. Just make sure that you don't allow any air bubbles to enter the system if you have ABS as it'll require dealer intervention to reset the codes.

Bob
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Old 04-28-2011, 02:46 PM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Calipers not changed.
Did compress.

Took it apart and put back.
Re-greased everything.
Seems OK.
If it continues to happen will look at purging the brake fluid and/or replace calipers.
No problem driving around the block.
Just a PITA.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CtownChris View Post
Calipers not changed.
Did compress.

Took it apart and put back.
Re-greased everything.
Seems OK.
If it continues to happen will look at purging the brake fluid and/or replace calipers.
No problem driving around the block.
Just a PITA.
Could you tell what was stopping the caliper from releasing? It's either not sliding on the bolts or the piston is sticking. Unless your rotors were that rusted from sitting....
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:48 PM
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Rotors NOT rusty.
One bolt was tight in the boot.
Cleaned and greased.

Maybe should LOAD up on the grease.
It was moving freely when I put it back.

How do I check for a stuck piston?

It moved in when I compressed it with my C clamp.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:49 PM
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+1 Bobman

Sounds like bad fluid.


Also sounds like the pad slides are grooved which causes the pad arms to stick in the groves, that could cause the issue (especially if they have cracks in the new pads in the center).
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:07 AM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Pad slides are "grooved" or worn where the pad arms make contact.

Little ruts right where then touch when installed.

I see that may hamper the pad movement.

Wire bushed all contact areas like always and greased.

*^$@&^!!!
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CtownChris View Post
Rotors NOT rusty.
One bolt was tight in the boot.
Cleaned and greased.

Maybe should LOAD up on the grease.
It was moving freely when I put it back.

How do I check for a stuck piston?

It moved in when I compressed it with my C clamp.
Glad you found the problem. Regarding a stuck piston, they should compress relatively easily and smoothly with a C-clamp and an (old) brake pad in place as a spacer. Remove the cap from your reservoir as well. A close physical inspection of the piston for cracks corrosion as well as looking at the rubber boot is about the best you can do without dissassembling it.

If the boot is damaged or there is any signs of fluid leakage at all, replace / rebuild the caliper.... period! Brakes aren't anything to mess around with, they need to be done right every time. I clean all of the parts with brake cleaner and then grease all of the contact points with synthetic brake lube. A small wire brush is also handy for knocking off the scale.

Something that I just found recently was a slight leak in one of my rear calipers. I picked up a rebuilt at AutoZone and was surprised that it came with the caliper as well as the whole mounting bracket assembly. I've never seen one come like that before, sure was nice putting in all new clean parts!

Bob
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:51 AM
DrewsDurango98 DrewsDurango98 is offline
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if the fluid was comtam. with water wouldnt it effect all the brakes? and not just one wheel.
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:19 AM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Were talking about the knuckle.
No listed at RockAuto. Will cont to look else where.
Do I need to replace the Knucle? If the pits are hanging up the pad sounds like it
Any it only occurs and locks up on the left side. 2nd time now.

In the mean time I'm goin to gently and carefully grind on edge of the knuckle where the PITS are to smooth it out and grease like hell.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:20 AM
Bobman Bobman is offline
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Not sure what to tell you about replacing the knuckle, I guess it depends on how bad it is? The bracket I was talking about was for an '03 and it was the rear disc's, but I *thought* there was a similar caliper bracket on the fronts as well? It's been awhile since I looked at the front brakes so I may be mistaken.

I also seem to remember some stainless steel pads that clip in place that the pads slide on. I know that they're like that in the rears. Again, it could be an '03 brake thing.

DrewsDurango98 : You would think that it should affect all wheels, but I can tell you that I chased this on my Mustang for quite awhile with one caliper hanging routinely, even after replacing it twice. Finally replaced all of the fluid and the problem went way.

Bob
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:55 AM
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Just brought up the front brake drawings. 99 is completely different than the 03. Looks like the 99 is part of the steering knuckle assembly where the 03 has the bolt on caliper bracket.

Sorry!

Bob
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:53 PM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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I took a sanding pad on my cordless drill and cleaned it up some more.
A few different hand files to bevel the divots on the pad slides.
New slider bolts and lots of grease.
Hope I'm done here or it's new knuckles for this D.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:03 PM
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you CAN grind the surface that the pad slides on a little bit in order to free it up you dont need to replace it every single time this happens
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:26 PM
CtownChris CtownChris is offline
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Got the D back from shop with new main hard line to driver rear. Front Passenger locked up AGAIN. Put reman caliper on and so far so good. Just did not want to spend time rebuilding it myself.
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:54 AM
topdogcustoms topdogcustoms is offline
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+1 Shrp & Hydra
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:54 AM
 
 
 
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