I'm a happy noob here. After my 214K mile Nissan truck was totaled I started looking for a used replacement. As you could imagine I didn't get much for my truck from the insurance company. I pretty much settled into the quad cab 2nd gen Dakota for many reasons. I found a bunch for sale locally and immediately started lurking here to become a better informed buyer.

So now I have some questions so it was time to register. I love vBulletin.

I've never owned a Dodge, however my wife drives a TJ, so that's close. My BIL drives a 24V 2500 auto club cab, which is awesome. I wanted a 97 Dakota club cab when they came out but had to buy from the lot, insisted on manual trans, and couldn't find one within a 5 state search. I bought a Nissan instead.

Well I found the truck I think I'm going to buy this week. 2001, quad, 4x4, auto, SLT, every option, dark blue two tone. It needs tires and the seller is bettering the price because of it. I looked at and drove it yesterday. Brought my cardboard, slid underneath it, and checked everything over.

This is what I found and what I need some feedback about:
- minor leakage from the output shaft seal. The crossmember was wet, not just oily, but I thought it was very minor.
- the ball joints seem fine and tight. The truck has 129K, he's had it since 50K, and never had a problem with the balljoints. The uppers are bolted in, not rivited. There was a TSB and recall on them, right? Is there a way to tell if they have been taken care of? Factory ball joints wouldn't last 129K, right?
- passenger side CV boot is ripped. They are a PITA to replace, aren't they? Keep in mind, I'll turn all the bolts myself. Nothing I won't attempt except.....I'll get to that in a min.
- Water pump was original, as far as the seller knows. No sign of leaking.
- While driving the trans shifts fine, 1-2, 2-3. It was last serviced at 60K. I'll drop the pan and replace the filters and fluid, but I'll skip the pressure flush. I just don't see the point. The filters grab the gunk so I'll just keep replacing them and the fluid. How often does this need to be done? This is the first (hopefully the last) auto I will own, so I know fairly little about maintenance and servicing. I need a little guidence on this. I do know the one thing I will not attempt it to pull and rebuilt the auto myself. Engine, manual, transfer case, and anything else gets pulled, rebuilt and replaced by me, I draw the line at the slush box. Them things are voodoo.
- lastly, the brake peddle was super soft. Is that normal for a Dodge? I figure I'll bleed the brakes day 1 and hope to get a little peddle back. Then learn to live with it. Anything I need to know about the Dodge breaks specifically?

ok, done for now.

Awaiting knowledge.

 

I'll help as I can with what I know.

The shaft seal is most likely on it's way out. IIRC it's not the hardest thing to replace. Keep an eye on your fluid levels, make sure they stay where they should

These most likely have been done, but the ball joints have been recalled about 6 times for a newer part number that has been changed or updated. Best way to find out is call the local dealer with the VIN number and ask them to look up the vin to see if all the recall's have been performed.

Not sure how hard they are to replace, but I'd replace it fairly soon. Don't need it binding on you.

Don't worry about it unless it's not running at temp, making a bearing noise, or leaking.

Good Idea. If it was last serviced at 60k the fluid is in need of replacement. And since it's shifting fine, no worries. Just change the fluid/filter, you'll be fine.

No, this is not "normal". Check the pads and shoes. Also look for brake fluid leaks. It could be a wheel cyl, caliper, or brake line. Could also be the pads and shoes are both very low. Wouldn't surprise me if the shoes were original. That seems to be a typical mileage point where they need replacement.

 

Thanks CS.

He said the rear brakes were just done and the parking brake is tight. The shoes might just need to be adjusted. I guess I'll check the fronts and bleed them. It's not a deal breaker for me, it just felt weird. I have to learn how to drive an auto, as strange as that sounds. I'm used to engine braking and downshifting. I used to get long service life out of my brakes on the manuals.

What is the typical maintenance interval for the trans fluid and filters?

I'm sure I can change the shaft seal in place. I might lift it a bit too. There isn't a lot of room underneath at all.

Is the standard small lift a torsion arm and block?

 

I know what you mean about learning to drive an auto. Back when I got my first auto (I learned to drive on a stick, and had a stick for a long time), I actually killed my tranny by shifting it like a stick. Those where the days. Brakes definitely don't last as long on auto's, but if you don't drive like a mad man, they should last long enough.

Maintenance interval for auto's is about 50k miles according to the manual. Pushing it to 60k shouldn't have been too much of a problem, but when you get it, change it out.

A Standard small lift is generally a torsion bar raise and blocks, yes. I haven't done it yet to level my dakota since I don't want to lift it, but according to the guys on here, turning it about 8 times is the max amount to go on the torsion bar. I don't remember how much lift it gives exactly, but I know it's on the forum somewhere. You could try searching for it if you like.

If I may ask, what's the year, and engine? Also, what's he asking?

 

It's a 2001 quad cab, slt, 4x4, 4.7L. He's asking below KBB and knows it. The price is low enough to almost be too good to be true. That's why I'm being a little cautious. I'm going to try to complete the deal tomorrow and do the DMV thing Monday mid day.

Once it's home, I'll let you know what I paid.

Sorry, but I'm a little superstitious like that.

 

KBB doesn't mean ****. It's ALWAYS overshooting the worth of cars.

 

mine went to 201k and then the motor blew...i was planning on replacing the whole front end but im looking for engine before a suspension

ummm...im not too familiar with that term!?!?

mine were like that when i first bought it with 150k and i replaced them at 171k?? and i bought all new rotors and pads and it was like new again it only cost me 50 for two rotors and 65 for 4 pads

for the things listed and whats condition its in...id like to see a pic...but id give the benifit of the doubt that its around 4500-6000

haha thats a good one...I KBB my truck when I first bought it and it was 5500 and then when the motor blew and it was 5200 with a 150k to 201k mile differeces...I lol'd

 

i have done the rear output shaft seal on mine the rear housing is a silicone joint that is common to leak, easy drop the drive line and its only four bolts for the housing and autozone, schucks, and napa said that the seal is a dealer only part and its about $53 so i just went to a tranny shop and got one with out the boot for $7

i have also just done the tranny on mine and its a breeze undo the bolts and drop the pan and there is two filters inside the pan a tranny cooler filter and a normal filter replace filters and bolt back up

when i did the brakes on mine the pedal seemed soft on mine and had my buddy a brake tech look at it and he said there not super firm like the older vechicals

 

Ok, just got back from picking it up. Paid $4800, so you were right on LP. He was asking $5500, but it needs tires, so $4800 was the bottom line.

The passenger front window switch needs replacement, and he gave it to me to install. Any tricks to removing the trim? Also, I just noticed both power door locks on the drivers side don't seem to work. Any suggestions?

I'm off to DMV to take care of the paperwork.

 

nice looking dakota

the panels are a truck because the black trim around the switched are bolted to the inner door frame and need to be undone to get the panel off

as for the locks not working..id look at the fuses and see what they have to offer
if i were you id look into a good set of meats for the truck

31x11x16 ought to look nice!!!