My car has starting to die on me once in a while. The first time it did it, it was when I got to the store, parked and the it didn`t want tostart. It acts like there is no gas, I get the cracking going but it won`t start.
Then suddenly while i`m driving in it cuts off real quick like there is no spark on the coils for a second, I did notice that the Tach doesn`t go down so i don`t thinks is an electic problem. it could be.
Today I was leaving to go to work and it died on me, I tried cranking it for about 5 minutes on and off untill it started.
What could be wrong here.
Oh i also got a P1684 code while trying to start the car, but i don`t think that is the problem.
(P1684 The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.)

1999 Dodge Intrepid
2.7 Liter
105K miles.

Help !!!

 

I had the same problem when the MAP sensor was going bad. To test it, unplug it and drive the car (it will run poor when you stomp on the gas and under certain other conditions, but it shouldn't stall anymore). See the "holy grail" at the top of this forum for a copy of the manual , if you don't know where the MAP sensor is. If you have a OBD II scan tool with realtime monitoring, you can also see if it is sticking. This is how they go bad. They just get stuck at a setting which throws out your timming, and fuel-to-air mixture. With it unplugged, the PCM uses a default limp home mode value. Let me know what happens.

 

thanks kurts2, but this is not happening all the time, it happens once in a while, in the past couple of month, it has probably clicked off while driving about 10 times and once in the parking lot where it wouldn`t start, and yesterday when I was going to work and it died on my having to push the damn thing out of traffic lol. But I will give it a try anyways.
In the mean time anymore feedback ??

 

That's how mine went out also. I recall the first time it did this to me was around a month or two after my wife told me it had happened to her (all with no engine codes). I was accelerating and the engine sputtered and died. I pulled over on the side of the road and tried to restart it. Unlike my wife’s experience with it, the car wouldn't restart for me. I called a friend to help me tow it home, all the while trying to get it started and looking for engine codes. Just before my friend showed up, I got it started by holding the gas pedal to the floor and turning it over. It ran rough and died. I did it again, and after a few moments of the gas to the floor (with only about 1,000 RPM), it just "kicked in" and ran normal. This did trip a baro fault & I thought I had induced it by the way I got it started.

Over the next month, it happened again a few more times. I read up on the MAP, and some other sensors I thought could do it. I tried a few (like the TPS) and whatever else I could think of (I thought the fuel pump was going out and rigged a pressure gauge under the windshield wipers, so I could monitor while driving). No luck, it still had an intermittent fail with no engine light. The fail was getting common by now. I gave up and was brining it to the dealer when I remembered the "default value" I had read about. I gave disconnecting it a try, and vola, no more engine stall!

When I got to the dealer (for the appointment I had made), I let them know what I found. They confirmed the MAP was bad (it was stuck at 13hg) with a real time scan. They charged me $80 for what I already figured out, and wanted another $100 to change the sensor! I said no thanks and left to the parts store. It is one connector and it can be changed by hand (no tools) in about 1 min! While at the auto store, I upgraded to a new OBD II scan tool that can monitor in real time.

You can try the TPS (like I did) and check your fuel pressure/change the filter (like I did). These may pan out for you as a fix, but I’d put my money on the MAP sensor.

PS, since then I have changed the MAP again! I’m not sure if it’s break down is due to heat or vibration, or both, but the after market unit isn’t much better than the factory one.

 

Oh yea, While I was trying to figure it out (stall with no engine code), here was some of my thoughts.
If a car is out of gas, the computer will not fault, therefore could be fuel pressure/flow related. The TPS misreporting couldn't be detected by the computer because it can't tell waht I'm doing if the sensor is bad. I also looked into the ASD shut down relay and swapped the fuel shutdown relay.

 

Thanks Kurts2, I`ll follow your directions and see if i can come up something. Your problem sounds like mine.

 

Kurts 2, I tried that for a week, a couple of times in the morning it didn`t want to start and today at the grocery strore it did not wanna start at all. Just went back tonight to pick it up and the piece of crap started. I`m ruling out the Map Sensor. Now I have P1684, P0123, P0108 and P1490.
I think Im` getting all this codes cause I unplug and replug some wires under the hood.
How would the Cam Sensor or Crank shaft Sensor affect my problem ???
Any Ideas guys ???

 

ttt

 

???

 

Sounds to me like a fuel pump going bad