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2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

2004 Neon front suspension clunk

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  #1  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:18 AM
ginel857 ginel857 is offline
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Question 2004 Neon front suspension clunk

I have had this clunk noise coming from the right hand side and tried different things. A local shop offered to replace the front struts for $600 suggesting that the bearings in the top mount are worn out. I did one side myself with a coplete strut assembly unit and the clunk is still there. It is loud when going over bumps. I am thinking that the halfshaft or the lower A arm bushings are bad, but don't know.
Has anyone had the same problem? Please give me some suggestions.
Thks
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:16 PM
neoncrazy101 neoncrazy101 is offline
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Wrong section but sounds like possible ball joints.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:27 PM
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Welcome to the forum but let me move this thread to the proper section for you:


You need to post in this section under cars : 2nd Gen Neon which is the 2000 year and up section for the Neon.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:33 PM
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I agree. It does sound like ball joints. Get under the car and take a look. If the boots are torn, they most likely went bad. The LCA bushings do go out fairly often on these as well, so if you do replace the ball joints, save yourself a lot of trouble and work and just replace the bushings while the A-arm is out.
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Torque Strut Alignment Procedure | Maintenance Info | '00-'02 FSM | '03-'05 FSM | FAQ and Performance Thread

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  #5  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:12 PM
mkov608 mkov608 is offline
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Default Strange Clunk Revealed

I just had the exact same problem with a friends 04 Neon. It turned out to be the right engine mount. Do no be confused with the torque struts (upper & lower) those were broken too, but even after I replaced those, I still had to change the right motor mount to get rid of the noise. To make matters worse, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to even see the mount while it's installed. Once I got it out, the mount was broken clear through.

Like the other posts, I had changed the left and right lower control arm assemblies (complete with new bushings and new ball joints) because I too thought that was the problem. I had replaced the front struts about 6 months prior because the right front was leaking.

One last word of advice, make sure the replacement mount has a metal center. One of the upper torque struts had a phenolic center and it lasted about 3 months
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:50 PM
ginel857 ginel857 is offline
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Default more work .. no solution yet

Thanks for the latest hint. I just now got to it, it fiigures, I just changed to lower A arms yesterday and put new ones in. The car feels tighter, but still clunks. I will check the motor mount next.
Thank you again.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:56 PM
ginel857 ginel857 is offline
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I looked at the manual and it shows the upper strut and the two brackets attached to the engine and body. Did you change 1 bracket or both?

Thks.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:07 AM
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The actual motor mount is directly across from the timing belt cover. The only way to properly check it is to remove it. The upper and lower struts are torque struts which are there to keep the engine from rocking back and forth. They are not actually motor mounts.

When does it "clunk?"
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:07 AM
mkov608 mkov608 is offline
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Default When does it Clunk?

We would hear the clunk anytime we were on a rough road ... driving straight or in a turn. That's what made me think ... lower control arm (struts had already been replaced).

I'd suggest to anyone chaning a timing belt/water pump to change that right enging mount while they hvae the timing belt cover off. Cost is cheap compared to tearing it all apart again.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:11 AM
mkov608 mkov608 is offline
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Darthroush, do you work for Chrysler? Dealership mech? Seems like you are all over this forum.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkov608 View Post
We would hear the clunk anytime we were on a rough road ... driving straight or in a turn. That's what made me think ... lower control arm (struts had already been replaced).

I'd suggest to anyone chaning a timing belt/water pump to change that right enging mount while they hvae the timing belt cover off. Cost is cheap compared to tearing it all apart again.
How are the tie rod ends?

Agreed. I'm pretty sure my motor mount is broken, so it is going to be replaced when I do my belt. Even if it isn't broken, for the price of a new one, might as well change it and save the hassle. Once every 100,000 miles isn't too bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkov608 View Post
Darthroush, do you work for Chrysler? Dealership mech? Seems like you are all over this forum.
Nope. Just someone who has had the awesome luck of having to work on cars a lot. I do read up on things as well on a somewhat regular basis. I love learning things. Knowledge is something you won't ever not use, so, the more the better.
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Torque Strut Alignment Procedure | Maintenance Info | '00-'02 FSM | '03-'05 FSM | FAQ and Performance Thread

Please do not PM me questions about your Neon. Start a thread. Your questions will be answered quicker that way.
If you do PM me, expect a 1-2 week wait for a reply.
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Last edited by darthroush; 01-18-2010 at 09:56 PM..
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:47 PM
t102ati t102ati is offline
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did you check the trans mount it also makes noise when you drive over bumps. but this noise u can feel it on the driver floor when you pass a bump, some times on you can feel it on the steering wheel. its just a suggestion???
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:35 AM
stocker505 stocker505 is offline
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Drive the car for 5 miles, jack the car and inspect the tie rod ends, usually the right side though.( I fought a similar "clunk" for almost a year.) For some reason the joint would be tight when "cold" but would show signs of play when "hot".
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:24 PM
t102ati t102ati is offline
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hey guys i had the same problem on my 2002 neon the famous front clunk. and it turn out to be the right side a arm. when i would break the car would slightly would rock foward and cause the clunk noise. there is a square washer at the a arm bolt behind the lower engine mount. this washer was not set properly in the last service and was rubbing on the cross mount. so when i would apply the brakes the washer would make pressure on the cross member (engine mount). and this is how i sloved the clunk problem. on my neon. maybe this can help
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:27 PM
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^^^ Interesting
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Torque Strut Alignment Procedure | Maintenance Info | '00-'02 FSM | '03-'05 FSM | FAQ and Performance Thread

Please do not PM me questions about your Neon. Start a thread. Your questions will be answered quicker that way.
If you do PM me, expect a 1-2 week wait for a reply.
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  #16  
Old 02-18-2010, 12:19 PM
the18301 the18301 is offline
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Ive done it!!! ive beaten my clunk finally!! took me nearly four months but ive finally solved it. Mine was a combination of two things bad ball joints and bad sway bar bushings....AND NOT THE THE ONES ON THE ENDS OF THE SWAY BAR BUT THE BUSHINGS IN THE TWO CLAMPS IN THE CENTER OF THE SWAY BAR THAT CLAMP THE SWAY BAR TO THE FRAME OF THE CAR.my first attempt at fixing this clunk was the lower control arm bushings and the sway bar links on the each end of the sway bar. but to my dismay the clunk was still there, only when i went over un even surfaces-potholes etc. most of the clunk came from the sway bar warping-wiggling in its 2 mounts that bolt it to the frame on the underside of the car. when i pulled the mounts for it i found that the bushings were rock hard and were worn away on the inside where the sway bar goes through them, this caused play in the mounts so when i went over a uneven surface the sway bar would wiggle and make the rattle sound through the whole car. you could take off your sway bar links and try to wiggle yours to see if this is the problem...
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:19 PM
 
 
 
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