Fuse 21/ASR keep blowing! WTF?
#1
03-09-2011, 12:12 PM
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Fuse 21/ASR keep blowing! WTF?
2004 sxt. A while back it just died on me while I was driving. After three days of tinkering I found fuse 21 (in hood box) blown. This is the Auto Shutdown Relay fuse. When it blows, my car shuts down and wont start until I replace it. So anyway, I fixed it, and it's run fine for the past month. Did a tune up in that time, check with OBDII after the first instance and got no codes.
But now, in the past two days, the ASR fuse has blown 4 times. After the second time I replaced the 20amp with a 30amp and it still blew.
I'm getting no dummy lights or codes or anything and it runs great normally. I would just say F it and short the fuse plug and forget about it, but I'm afraid something really bad is going on in my car, or else why would the ASR fuse keep popping? Any ideas?
Thanks for reading, I appreciate any input....
But now, in the past two days, the ASR fuse has blown 4 times. After the second time I replaced the 20amp with a 30amp and it still blew.
I'm getting no dummy lights or codes or anything and it runs great normally. I would just say F it and short the fuse plug and forget about it, but I'm afraid something really bad is going on in my car, or else why would the ASR fuse keep popping? Any ideas?
Thanks for reading, I appreciate any input....
#2
03-09-2011, 03:04 PM
#3
03-09-2011, 04:33 PM
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Not that I can tell. The first time this happened I checked the ignition system from to back with my multimeter and it was all good. I think I've heard before that newer Dodges can corrode under the hood fuse box. Think that sounds like a good place to start? btw Darth, I've been reading through this forum a lot the past month and I got mad respect for you.
#4
03-09-2011, 06:05 PM
Yes, the PDC (the underhood fuse box) can corrode due to it being more exposed to the elements. That's more the one I was referring to vs. the in-car fuse box.
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03-09-2011, 06:52 PM
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#6
03-09-2011, 07:59 PM
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#7
03-09-2011, 11:35 PM
The ASD relay can be a tricky one. Let's hope for a simply corrosion problem. If not, we'll have to start going through the shop manual.
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#8
03-10-2011, 03:08 AM
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I tried to get the PDC off. I got all the snaps around the midline of it open, but the top half has an arm (for stability?) that’s attached to the body on the driver's side. I couldn't figure out how to get it loose and it prevented me from getting the top off. If it's some kind of snap it's one I haven't seen before. I don't know if it's attached through the body with a screw or snap on the other side because I didn't have time to figure out how to get up in there (looks to be just above the wheel well). I was however able to hold the box open an inch or two, enough to somewhat inspect the fuse/wire connections with one of those little half-dollar size extend-o-mirrors you can get at auto parts stores. I couldn't see all the connections, but the ones I could see appeared fine. If there's enough corrosion going on in there to cause a problem, it's isolated and I find that situation pretty improbable.
I have a basic understanding of electronics, and my father is a retired electrical engineer and we both agree that corrosion shouldn't cause a fuse to blow, unless maybe it's on a ground. I haven't had a chance to search out all the grounds and check them yet. I cleaned three that I could find easily under the hood (one by the fuse box, one in front by the radiator, and one on the passenger side by the strut assembly top), switched out the ASR relay for the spare relay, took it for a drive, and it blew again.
Whatever the problem is, it's gotten worse since the first time it happened, which was a few weeks ago. I replaced the fuse and it was fine until this Monday night.
I think it's probably a short somewhere, but if it is, it's not constant, or the fuse would blow as soon as I tried to drive.
I've been through a lot of fuses since Monday. It's been wet out each day since this started again. Today it blew more fuses in less time and it was also raining. I'm thinking it may possibly be a moisture problem creating a short, but I can't rule that out until we get a dry day here (SW Mich). That would explain why it drives and shifts fine while the fuse is intact and why I'm not getting any indicator lights or OBDII codes.
I'm going to do some more research and forum searches tonight to see if I can get any clues. Like what situations the car's computer is programmed to respond to by throwing the ASR (engine temp, O2/fuel mix, tranny??). That could be handy info for ruling things out. I'm thinking the problem is in the front because it was a front-end salvage. The previous owner rear ended a truck and the lot bought/fixed/sold it. It wouldn't surprise me to find something loose or done wrong because in the few months I've owned it, I've had to reattach the air intake to the engine because the hose-clamp wasn't tightened down and when I replaced the spark plugs, one wasn't tightened down. I'll keep checking back here for input/ideas. Thanks again.
I have a basic understanding of electronics, and my father is a retired electrical engineer and we both agree that corrosion shouldn't cause a fuse to blow, unless maybe it's on a ground. I haven't had a chance to search out all the grounds and check them yet. I cleaned three that I could find easily under the hood (one by the fuse box, one in front by the radiator, and one on the passenger side by the strut assembly top), switched out the ASR relay for the spare relay, took it for a drive, and it blew again.
Whatever the problem is, it's gotten worse since the first time it happened, which was a few weeks ago. I replaced the fuse and it was fine until this Monday night.
I think it's probably a short somewhere, but if it is, it's not constant, or the fuse would blow as soon as I tried to drive.
I've been through a lot of fuses since Monday. It's been wet out each day since this started again. Today it blew more fuses in less time and it was also raining. I'm thinking it may possibly be a moisture problem creating a short, but I can't rule that out until we get a dry day here (SW Mich). That would explain why it drives and shifts fine while the fuse is intact and why I'm not getting any indicator lights or OBDII codes.
I'm going to do some more research and forum searches tonight to see if I can get any clues. Like what situations the car's computer is programmed to respond to by throwing the ASR (engine temp, O2/fuel mix, tranny??). That could be handy info for ruling things out. I'm thinking the problem is in the front because it was a front-end salvage. The previous owner rear ended a truck and the lot bought/fixed/sold it. It wouldn't surprise me to find something loose or done wrong because in the few months I've owned it, I've had to reattach the air intake to the engine because the hose-clamp wasn't tightened down and when I replaced the spark plugs, one wasn't tightened down. I'll keep checking back here for input/ideas. Thanks again.
#9
03-10-2011, 07:28 AM
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#10
03-10-2011, 11:42 AM
AUTOMATIC SHUT DOWN RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The ASD relay is located in the PDC (Fig. 1). The inside top of the PDC cover has label showing relay and fuse identification.
OPERATION
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, electronic ignition coil and the heating elements in the oxygen sensors. A buss bar in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) supplies voltage to the solenoid side and contact side of the relay. The fuse also protects the power circuit for the fuel pump relay and pump. The fuse is located in the PDC. Refer to the Wiring Diagrams for circuit information.
The PCM controls the ASD relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position. When the ignition switch is in On or Start, the PCM monitors the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals when the ignition switch is in the Run position, it will de-energize the ASD relay.
DESCRIPTION
The ASD relay is located in the PDC (Fig. 1). The inside top of the PDC cover has label showing relay and fuse identification.
OPERATION
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, electronic ignition coil and the heating elements in the oxygen sensors. A buss bar in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) supplies voltage to the solenoid side and contact side of the relay. The fuse also protects the power circuit for the fuel pump relay and pump. The fuse is located in the PDC. Refer to the Wiring Diagrams for circuit information.
The PCM controls the ASD relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position. When the ignition switch is in On or Start, the PCM monitors the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals when the ignition switch is in the Run position, it will de-energize the ASD relay.