Repairing & servicing the Neon 31TH tranny. Need Tranny pan bolt size, to make sure I get the correct size Helicoil.

On the First tranny pan removal, one pan bolt was stripped by the Factory, it was a pain coming out. Looked like they may have cross threaded it & or also used thread locker, as the threads were all filled up with gunk & aluminum.

Anyway the case doesn't have enough threads remaining to chase, or for the pan bolt to properly torque up, so it's Helicoil time on this tranny service & TCC solenoid replacement, while I have it opened up, but danged if I can find the tranny pan bolt size Anywhere. The FSM, repair manuals & various site searches are clueless.

Yah I know I could remove one & size it, but I'm 78 & not into the danged thing yet, so don't want to raise the vehicle to just remove a bolt for sizing If I don't have to.

Another question, on the 31TH, how tricky is removing/dropping the valve body to replace the TCC solenoid??? By the FSM pictorials it doesn't look to be too bad, but I believe there are 7 ball check valves that we need to be aware of not loosing, or misplacing when putting the valve body back in, but they aren't shown on the FSM I have, but are shown in another pictorial I found on the net.
Any gaskets, or separator plates, or other parts that need to be replaced when dropping this valve body???
Just trying to get a feel of the job, to see what I'm in for & if at my age I want to do it, or let a pro have a go at it.

 

The parts manual says "BOLT, Hex Head, M8x1.25x16" for the 31TH Automatic Transaxle 3 Speed

 

OK, thanks for that timely confirmation. I had finally come upon some info yesterday for another Dodge tranny that specified the M8x1.25x16 tranny pan fastener but couldn't verify if the 31TH also used the same size bolt, as I can't access the parts sticky for some reason, so now it seems it does use the same size fastener.

NOW, I'm ready to come by the proper size helicoil for the stripped pan bolt hole in the case.
I've not been into this tranny past it's first pan drop, band adjustment & a filter & fluid pump out about 6 years ago, when I discovered the pan bolt had been Factory stripped & it's threads mucked up with something to hold it in. At that period I didn't have the time to do a proper fix, this time I do.

Also, after an extensive trouble shoot on a P0743 code, I'm going to replace the TCC solenoid while servicing the tranny, which is due for a fluid & filter change & repairing the stripped pan bolt casing threads, so any heads up/things to look out for info on dropping the 31TH valve body, to replace the TCC solenoid????

I've read & viewed a pictorial that shows 7 fasteners holding the valve body in & 7 ball check valves we have to be aware of, to not loose, or displace when re-installing the valve body. 3 fasteners holding the TCC solenoid to the valve body, along with 2 "O" ring seals on it's electrical connector periscope body OD. Looks to be a fairly straight forward replacement. Any expierenced inuts appreciated, to help keep pawpaw out of trouble!!!

 

Unfortunately, I've got nothing to add about replacing anything as I haven't done it. It sounds like you know more about the process than myself due to your research. Best of luck; hope it all goes well!

 

Ok, thanks for the reply. You & I apparently aren't by our selves, as 208 other members have read but not replied to the thread, so they likely haven't been into their tranny to do the TCC solenoid replacement, or drop the valve body either!!! lol

This is the first parts failure & needed repair for this vehicle, beyond regular scheduled maintenance replacement items, which I've kept up to date with licensed fluids & mostly OEM parts, so it's been a Very reliable round town vehicle for the Wife. Gotta get it fixed though, as she's taken over my truck, so I gotta get her out of that asap!!!

I still haven't been able to access this sites sticky Parts Manual link, as access is denied, even though I'm a site & Google member, any idea what I'm doing wrong, or how to unlock the links for access, in case I need them for reference???

I'll post findings for the record as I progress.

 

Not sure. It works for me on every device I access it on. Maybe try clearing the cache and trying again?

 

Anyone needing to repair your damaged, or stripped 31TH tranny case/pan threads, for consideration, here is a link to a made in Australia, "Fix-A-Thread" M8x1.25/Product #35089 Kit, to repair the 31TH tranny case bolt hole threads. http://www.afs-fix.com/fix-a-thred/06.htm

Purchased with a "Retail Me Not" https://www.retailmenot.com/ online promo discount code, from Advance Auto, that I came by today.
It seems like a nicely done Kit, including a tap, combo tap handle, threaded coil insert & tang break-off tool, with adjustable insert installation depth colar but no supplied drill bit. However the package does call out the Metric 8.3mm, or Inch 21/64 size bits, used to drill the hole out so it can be threaded with the supplied tap. This drill out hole size usually equals going up one bolt diameter for the stainless steel wire coil that'll be inserted to become the new threads for the M8x1.25x16 mm pan bolt. http://www.afs-fix.com/index.htm Bought mine here on line/pick up in store to save on shipping & also used a discount code to cut cost some more http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...ad+repair+kits
The FSM recommends this type of damaged thread repair.

This is a more complete & less expensive kit product than the HeliCoil brand. We'll see if it's as good. I've used HeliCoil in my past profession on military night vision equipment with varying success. Tomorrow is likely the day of truth!!!

 

Thanks, took your advice & cleared cookies again, but went a step further by signing out & in again here & on Google & WALA it was like "Open Sesame", the file opened!!!!

 

Finally got into the 31TH tranny & repaired the Factory stripped tranny case, pan bolt hole.
Every thing went smoothly with the drill out of the damaged threads, taping for the stainless coil insert, & its insertion. The Fix-A-Thread kit components worked smoothly.

I noticed in their folded instruction sheet that the kit supplied tap is for Non Ferrous/Soft metals, so be aware of that if you have need to tap iron, or steel, you'll need a Hardened tap to cut threads in those hard materials. Worked just fine on the soft aluminum tranny case pan bolt hole. It gets a thumbs up for my needs.

EDIT: Here is a link to my TCC solenoid, filter replacement, band adjustment, Full tranny & power steering fluid pump out, tutorial. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-exchange.html
Had to open the tranny up to replace the TCC solenoid, so took the opportunity to fix the Factory stripped tranny case pan bolt threads & perform the other delinquent scheduled maintenance items while in there.
The tranny & power steering Full fluid pump out procedure can be used on most vehicles. I've used this procedure on my Fords for years & the tranny always rewards me with improved shifting & the standard Ford power steering pump whine is non existent. Helped quiet the Neon P/S pump when it got it's first pump out 6 years ago. So if you have a noisy P/S pump, before throwing parts at the problem, first try a full fluid pump out with a good quality licensed ATF+4 fluid & see how it goes.

 

Glad things went well. I've changed fluid and filter in my Wife's '05 SXT without any issues. But that has the 40TE tranny in it.

L8R,
Matt