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Rear Axle Seal Leaking, Possible Rear diff Whine

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  #1  
Old 05-02-2009, 12:11 AM
Optimus Optimus is offline
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Default Rear Axle Seal Leaking, Possible Rear diff Whine

The passenger rear axle shaft seal (one at the wheel) is leaking a little bit on my '98 1500 4x4. how difficult are these to replace? I do not have a repair manual and I am only on dialup so i cannot download a manual online. I'm plenty handy with a wrench, though I admit I am new to Dodge (worked on plenty of other vehicles before though, including major repair).

There may also be a bit of rear diff whine. it's hard to tell because the glass pack muffler is fairly loud. The whine is solely based on speed and is not affected by engine RPM or transmission gear. I've had other vehicles with rear diff bearing issues, so I am familiar with the sound. How easy are the diff's to remove? According to my hood label, I have a limited slip too. At a minimum tomorrow morning, I'm going to pick up an axle shaft seal, rear diff cover gasket, and fresh 75w-90 gear lube (and a bottle of limited slip additive). If there's anything else I should get, please let me know.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2009, 06:58 AM
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zman17 zman17 is offline
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Replace the outer bearing, that's most likely why the seal is bad. And there is a good chance it is the cause of the whining. Get a haynes manual. It's not that hard to do this job.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2009, 09:00 AM
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you need to download that manual. Use a program called "Get Right" or some other download manager of your choice. If your connection to the internet breaks, it'll remember where you left off and keep downloading the next time you connect to the internet.

Just dial up before going to bed and let it run for the night.
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:08 AM
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AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and raise
and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL) ..
(4) Clean all foreign material from housing cover
area.
(5) Remove the housing cover and drain lubricant.
(6) Rotate differential case to access the pinion
shaft lock screw. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft
from differential case (Fig. 17).
(7) Push axle shaft inward then remove axle shaft
C-lock (Fig. 18).
(8) Remove axle shaft being carefull not to damage
shaft bearing and seal.
(9) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
(10) Inspect axle shaft bearing contact surface for
signs of brinelling, galling and pitting.

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and
engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from damaging
axle shaft seal lip.
(2) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft. Push axle
shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(3) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and
through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(4) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential
case and install lock screw with Loctitet on the
threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install cover and fill with gear lubricant.
(6) Install brake drum (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/DRUM - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.



AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft seal from the end of the axle
tube with a small pry bar (Fig. 19).

INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install a new axle seal with Installer C-4076-B
and Handle C-4735-1. When the tool contacts the
axle tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(4) Install the axle shaft.

AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft seal from the end of the axle
tube with a small pry bar (Fig. 20).
NOTE: The seal and bearing can be removed at the
same time with the bearing removal tool.
(3) Remove the axle shaft bearing from the axle
tube with Bearing Removal 6310 and Adapter 6310-9

AXLE SHAFTS (Continued)
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install the axle shaft bearing with Installer
C-4198 and Handle C-4171 . Ensure that the bearing
part number is against the installer. Verify that the
bearing in installed straight and the tool fully contacts
the axle tube when seating the bearing.
(3) Install a new axle seal with Installer C-4076-B
and Handle C-4735-1. When the tool contacts the
axle tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(4) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(5) Install the axle shaft.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2009, 10:53 AM
Optimus Optimus is offline
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Thanks! hmmm, looks like special tools are needed. Are there other tools that could be substituted for the bearing/seal pullers and installation tools? Other than that, replacement looks pretty straight forward. I do have one of those generic double ended seal pullers that will probably get the old seal out. Hmmm, can I use the old seal to drive in the new seal? The seal looks like it sits flush with the end of the axle housing, so that might work? If yes, then all I really need to worry about is the removal and replacement of the bearing. Hopefully, it is just the bearing that's whining. It doesn't get louder or quieter when I turn though, so it may not be the bearing.

Last edited by Optimus; 05-02-2009 at 10:57 AM..
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:38 AM
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You can probably rent the tool for the bearing from auto zone or wherever . A slide hammer with a couple hooks should do the trick. The seal is easy, the tool you have will work. You can use almost anything to put it back in. Just make sure it goes in straight and seats all the way.
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:55 PM
Optimus Optimus is offline
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thanks, I rented a slide hammer and bearing attachment from oreily's today. If it works well enough, I will just buy one! First, I have to finish swearing at the power steering pump I am in the middle of replacing. Had to cut the f-ing pulley off.
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Old 05-03-2009, 12:16 AM
Optimus Optimus is offline
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got the wheel bearing and seal done today--super easy, especially with the help of the slide hammer. I used my generic seal pulled for the seal. Then I used the old bearing to tap the new bearing and seal into place. The rear diff fluid looked fairly new. There was some of the usual silver goo stuck to the magnet, but no metal shavings of any kind. I'm going to let the RTV (The Right Stuff) set up overnight and fill gear oil in the morning. With any luck, the whine will be gone. At a minimum, the axle seal will no longer be leaking onto the (new) rear shoes. No wonder braking sucked....

Last edited by Optimus; 05-03-2009 at 12:35 AM..
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2011, 04:23 PM
RMio RMio is offline
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I have the same problem with my 1998 1500 sst. I had the front bearings changed but I still have the same noise. Increases in intensity with speed but I have no power or tranny issues. Can this seize up when I'm driving? How much to have it done, parts and labor?
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:28 PM
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No power is all I have to hear. Read this http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...um-thread.html
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:28 PM
 
 
 
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2001, 98, axle, change, differential, dodge, end, front, mustang, oil, ram, rear, replacement, seal, shaft, whine, whining

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