Installing new shocks...New Bolts Needed?
#1
Installing new shocks...New Bolts Needed?
I ordered new shocks and a steering stabilizer online. I called local shops and they won't install them because I didn't buy them from them...So, I plan to install them myself this weekend. My truck has 140k miles and original shocks. I'm guessing the bolts for the shocks will be pretty rusty and might need to be replaced.
How/where would I get new bolts for installing the shocks? Not to sound dumb, but would a particular grade of metal bolt from Home Depot work or do I need to go to order them from the dealer?
How/where would I get new bolts for installing the shocks? Not to sound dumb, but would a particular grade of metal bolt from Home Depot work or do I need to go to order them from the dealer?
#3
#4
odds are good that the original bolts will be fine. spray them with pb-blaster before you remove them. i had to replace a lower rear bolt that was all wallowed out and was loose in the bushing. i got lucky and found one in my bolt bucket, but any bolt grade should be fine. they're pretty big diameter (about 9/16 or 14mm) and pretty long, so home depot probably won't have one. you might have to go to an old fashioned parts store or fastener place. or possibly the dealer...
#5
The lower bolt you reuse, you will most definetly need a breaker bar to get it off, and probably a section of pipe on that.
Good thing is there is a tab on the nut, so you don't need to worry about putting a wrench on the nut side.
Top one is typically crusted beyond hope, best way to get if off is snap it off with an air ratchet, if no air try it by hand, or use a right angle grinder to cut it off.
New shocks should have the top nut in the box, along with new bushings.
Good thing is there is a tab on the nut, so you don't need to worry about putting a wrench on the nut side.
Top one is typically crusted beyond hope, best way to get if off is snap it off with an air ratchet, if no air try it by hand, or use a right angle grinder to cut it off.
New shocks should have the top nut in the box, along with new bushings.
#6
Join Date: Apr 2008
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my bottom bolts and top/bottom in the back didn't have any rust on them so it must be a pretty good alloy that they're made of. and i just used a 3/8ths drive ratchet to get mine off and a wrench for the top bolts (124000 miles on original shocks). i actually had an 18" extension for the bottom of the front shocks so i wouldn't have to get under the truck or take the tire off.
if you're going to use a penetrating fluid (it'll make it easier) don't waste your time with pb blaster/wd40 or liquid wrench. use CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo, or Kroil. or you could use oil of wintergreen if you can find some, its hard to come by though because its toxic.
if you're going to use a penetrating fluid (it'll make it easier) don't waste your time with pb blaster/wd40 or liquid wrench. use CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo, or Kroil. or you could use oil of wintergreen if you can find some, its hard to come by though because its toxic.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 06-25-2009 at 01:02 PM.
#7
if you're going to use a penetrating fluid (it'll make it easier) don't waste your time with pb blaster/wd40 or liquid wrench. use CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo, or Kroil. or you could use oil of wintergreen if you can find some, its hard to come by though because its toxic.
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#8
#10
where did you get that he thinks its gonna be hard?
if you do feel that they need replaced, after you take them off just go to a hardware store and match up the size and length and get grade 8