Anybody know the size of the hub bearing nut on a 2001 2wd Ram 1500?

I'll probably need to acquire a 3/4" drive breaker bar to pull off the 185 ft/lbs bolt (think the 1/2 might flex too much if she's stuck on there good, and I like my current set of teeth.) I need to know what that nut size is to get the right sized socket. 3/4" drive stuff ain't cheap, wonder if I can buy it in 1/2" drive size and use an adapter.

 

Do you have a Tractor Supply around you?
They have a 3/4" sliding t-handle breaker bar (the one I got) for 15$ and a flexible handle 3/4" breaker bar for 20$.

I can't believe how much some people pay for those or the bigger sockets like the 1 11/16" for the 4x4 guys, my socket was 6$.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/h...-t-bar-3835218
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/h...handle-3835226

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/h...dapter-3828130
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/h...dapter-3828106

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/h...socket-3833606

 

Might stop by the parts store and ask the guy there to check the hub nut size for me. I'm sure there's a Tractor supply close. Got Harbor Freight if nothing else

 

There should be one close to you out there in farm country.

Do you have a dial caliper? You could check it with that.

 

It is the same size socket on a 2001 2wd as it is on a 4wd because the same hub bearing assembly is used. Don't forget the 12 point 14 mm impact socket for the 3 bolts in back.

 

yea and you're right the 3/4 in breaker will be needed, i snapped my 1/2in bar in half when trying to do mine...the 3/4in breaker with 2ft of extra piping for leverage made it come off using only one hand...

and yes its a 1 11/16

 

Breaker bars work OK, but nothing like a good snap from an impact. Much easier IMO.

 

It is not 1 11/16". It's 1.3885 inches on the dial caliper. Not a good Standard conversion so my guess is its 35mm. Taking it to a parts store to verify.

Freaking nut cost $20 at the dealer. Bend over and grab your ankles territory. None of the parts stores even showed it on the computer. Might take the nut in and cross reference it with a ford or GM part. Freaking ridiculous.

 

Actually, you don't have to pull those 3 bolts to remove the hub/bearing itself:

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper adapter bolts from the
steering knuckle and remove caliper adapter assembly
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
adapter assembly.
(4) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
(5) Remove the hub/bearing nut (Fig. 3) and slide
the hub/bearing off the spindle.
CAUTION: The hub/bearing nut can not be re-used.

INSTALLATION
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Slide the hub/bearing onto the spindle.
(3) Install the new hub/bearing nut and tighten
to:
² LD 1500: 251N·m (185 ft. lbs.)
² HD 2500/3500: 380 N·m (280 ft lbs.)
(4) Install the rotor onto hub/bearing wheel studs.
(5) Install the caliper adapter assembly (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION), and tighten
adapter bolts to:
² LD 1500: 176 N·m (130 ft lbs.)
² HD 2500/3500: 285 N·m (210 ft lbs.)
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower
the vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Apply brakes several times to seat brake shoes.
Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving vehicle.

 

You could try a bolt store for the nut like Fastenal or Cruco (if you have one around there).
Plug "nuts and bolts" into www.switchboard.com and it'll tell you what you have locally.