Hey guys, just looking for a little advise. All I wanted to do was change the rotors on my 96' ram 2500 4X4 and I opened a big can of worms. I finally have the rotor off of one side but im not quite sure whats next. I finally got the hub and bearing off the front of the rotor and the rotor off but everything behind the rotor stayed on and wont come off. I have the 4 12 point bolts off on the back and was trying everything to get it off but it must be rusted on there good. The manual says everything comes off together but mine didn't, did I screw this up? Do I just put a new rotor on and the hub and bearing on the front of the rotor and call it good? It just makes me mad that this hub and bearing behind the rotor is supposed to come off and it wont. Any suggestions? I tried to search on here and all I can find is half ton stuff, I think my set up is a little bit different. Any info would be great, Thanks

 

trying go get pics on here so somebody can see what I'm talking about

 

That hub is definitly trashed now. I deal with these bastard bearings all the time at work.

The best way I know how to remove the hub assembly, is to thread the 12point bolts into the hub again, not all the way but in maybe about 1/4"-3/8" or so. Then grab your socket that fits them and an extension that's roughly 6" or so and place them between the bolt and the control arm brackets. Have a friend inside the truck CAREFULLY and SLOWLY turn the steering wheel (engine running to utilize the hydraulic pressure of the power steering) to the side you have the socket on.

The hub should work itself loose, I go in a cross pattern (top left bolt, then lower right bolt etc). Good luck with it, this trick has kept me from completely loosing my sanity dealing with heavily corroded hub/bearing assemblies.

 

your (supposed to be) one piece bearing has separated, and half of its still stuck in the knuckle.

you're pretty much screwed. you need to remove that remaining half, and then install a new one. its not cheap.

thread in some sacrificial bolts into the 4 holes from the inside and beat on them with a hammer (trying to push out on the bearing) don't beat on your 12 points. also try some heat.


look at rockauto.com - brake/wheel hub - axle bearing and hub assy

i see a couple different ones for the 2500.
2 wh abs vs 4 wh abs.
7500 vs 8800 gross weight.

 

ok i'm new, this is first post. I am sorry if i have the ettiquette wrong here.
I also am changing front rotors on a 99 4x4 2500. This is insane! But if i'm reading correctly, it seems i can expect probable failurue to even get the old one off and if i do happen to get it off, most likley the bearings will be trashed??!! Is that correct? Don't know who engineered this but makes me ,well not happy to say the least. I am fairly mechanical and have basic tools. (had to buy 1 1/16 socket) been hammering on that castle nut with dewalt 1/2" electric impact for 25 mins.and it has not even wiggled
Should this even be attempted in the driveway??

 

Rusty ram, you can do this in the driveway. If you do like my previous post, and press the hub out using the steering (and a friend to help) you can save the original bearing without it separating like the OP's did.

As far as the big 1 11/16" axle nut goes, try placing one end of a large pry bar into the lug studs and the other against the ground, then use a large breaker bar to loosen the nut. Or you will need a stronger impact.

 

ok guys thanks for the info. I'll try your advise and see what happens. I hope the other side goes better.

 

thanks copperram, guess i just needed to sit and vent a bit. Got all the bolts loose last nite after "venting" here. got all the bolts loose. Gonna go out now and see if i can actually get it apart now. Thanks for the tips the 3' pipe on the breaker and my 200lb but jamming it with my foot did the trick. Amazing somtimes old school brute force/leverage will outwork the modern impact. Hope to get it apart tonight. Never would have thought about using the power steering for a press ,love the internet for this good friendly info thanks again.Still think it's a bit overengineered for brake rotor,ridiculous.

 

update !!
bent an extension into an 'L" shape with the power steering trick. Bearing and rotor still on truck. I can easily see $1000.00 rotor change in my near future. Absolutely no call for this kind of engineering in my opinion. Anybody got any other suggestions i'm all ears. I've had 4 dodges liked them all enough to buy another but this episode will be my last with a dodge.
love the truck but this kind of stuff is uncalled for, a brake rotor is fairly common fail item and should be replacable without destroying half the front axle and having to spend a couple days to realize you gotta put it back together as is, so you can take it to the shop and spend buckoo bucks to have a guy litterally cut and rip the thing apart to replace a $30.00 rotor.cost ya a grand in labor and destroyed parts for one flippin rotor. And I always mocked ford for their "better ideas" I'm pretty sure it will be cheaper and easier to replace the whole front axel than change one rotor on a 3/4 ton truck. Sorry i am apparrently irritated!!

 

Wow Rusty!! I've done a few hundred of these hubs, and never bent an extension into an "L" before. That hub must be severely corroded in place.

I also agree that rotors are a wear item, and should be designed for easy replacement.