Which pins did you jump? Pin 30 is 12 volts from fuse J in the PDC. (pink/dark blue wire if you can see it....) Jump that to pin 87 (dark blue/black) to send power to the compressor clutch. Do you actually GET power at the connector for the clutch at that point? Black/white wire just goes to ground somewhere. Do you have continuity to ground on that wire?

You can test if the switches are the problem with a couple paper clips. Test them.

 

Ok, you are jumping relays, when you should be jumping the LOW pressure switch PLUG, not the switch itself. Green plug located to the right of the pcm on top of the accumulator, as shown in pic provided.

As far the compressor goes(to check if its seized) , you should be able to rotate the clutch (located in the center of the pulley itself) with your fingers. If it rotates, the compressor is NOT seized.

Last but not least, if you don't at least rent an evac pump and get a decent manifold gauge set, you are wasting your time and money.

 

I think the clutch is bad, even after applying direct power to the clutch it refuses to engage.

Now...changing clutches is a bitch I know, but can it be done without decompressing the system by pulling the compressor out?

The radiator fan is in the way but I think I could pull that off to get access to the compressor.

 

There were some clutch kits on ei-bay last year and could be repaired without evacing the system, but otherwise you going to find that they are not serviceable and you have get complete compressor. Have you tried jumping the low pressure switch like zman described. If the clutch plate space to magnet is more than .003 in it won't engage or if it does, it won't for long. A fluke fix i did on mine was to tap around the circumference of the inner clutch plate with a small hammer to get that air gap back within spec and has been working since last summer. I also had it in a shop to have both high and low pressure checked so I knew it was properly charged.

 

The clutch has a very small spacing, I don't think that is the issue.


This is a photo of the connections. The connection circled in RED has a 12 volt current running through it when the AC is turned on from the dash controls. The green connection is the connection which I ran a 12volt current through to try and engage the clutch, the circuit did complete, but it did not engage the clutch.

 

If the other pin on the connector circled in red has good ground, the clutch is toast.

Try measuring resistance across the two terminals on the clutch connector. (in green) See what you get. (not that it will really matter if the ground on the other connector is good.....)

 

Way to check the gap is with a feeler gauge. But yeh, it should pull it in. just won't stay engaged when the gap gets to wide. IME.

 

Still have not heard from the OP as to whether or not he has jumped the low side switch.

 

I've jumped both low and high switches

I think its pretty much zeroed in on the clutch.