I want to put a slug through my radiator and engine right now. OK, here are the engine parts that HAVE BEEN swapped out on my truck.

Plenum Repair - Hughes Kit - a month ago
Water Pump
Radiator Cap
Thermostat
Fan Clutch
Double roller timing chain
oil / filter
plugs
wires (with clips...carefully patterned)
distributor cap & rotor - yesterday
Upper / Lower rad hoses
lower timing chain cover rubber thingy
Serp Belt
All gaskets for timing chain & plenum process were Fel Pro gaskets...all new
Valve cover gaskets - Fel Pro
IAC removed and cleaned - yesterday

So, a few issues.
#1-there is oil in my new freaking plenum pan...not pooling, but after I've let my truck warm up, if I remove the air hat and manually flip the butterfly on the TB, it smells like exhaust and smoke (burning oil smell) slowly comes out. I torqued the bolts on the pan all 3 times like in the instructions. I did them in the pattern provided. I used high temp copper permatex on the plenum pan gasket. I used new TTY intake bolts. WTF!

Coolant: I have not backflushed the heater hoses yet. Since I suspect a leak somewhere, there is no point (IMO). However, before the plenum repair, my temp gauge wasn't working. After a new thermostat, it was working fine...still gurgling, but warm air and happy times. About a week ago, i checked the coolant level. It was down. No puddle in driveway. I added more. Next trip in the truck, engine temp went all the way past 185 (they didn't have a 190 thermostat when i bought it), all the way to about 235 until the coolant res blew coolant out the overflow nozzle on the side. Let it cool off. Added coolant, elevated passenger side of truck, let truck come up to temp with rad cap off. Warm Air! Next trip, coolant blew again. Repeated process. Same results. I did find the upper rad hose (where attached to rad was loose. Tightened it. Same results. Since coolant is everywhere, I can't tell if there is a crack in the rad somewhere. I thought it was leaking before all this...possibly where the white smoke upon starting my truck is coming from, but there are 3 reasons I don't think it's a cracked head. maybe rings / valve guides, but I don't think it's a head or gasket...but welcome your input. there is no exhaust smell in the radiator, when I put my hand over open radiator when starting, there is a suction (not a lot, but it's not blowing my hand away either). I haven't found coolant in my oil either. I'm not sure how to proceed. Maybe do the spark plug compression test? Where do I get the tool for it? Never done that before, but I'm sure I can manage if I know what tool to buy and with instructions from you guys.

I'm pretty sure I need a new rear seal. Oil leaking down from the top of the oil pan, and on the front of the transmission. Since plenum repair, when checked, the amount of oil needed has *******ly disappeared, but again the oil residue in the plenum???
I cleaned the intake when i did the repair, so i dont think it's just cooking what was baked on, but I may be wrong.

I recorded live data with my scanner on my commute to work this morning. I have 27 frames, but I'm only going to list the first few. I'm not sure if this will help with a diagnosis / response, but can't hurt...

Category Frame 1 Frame 2 Frame 3 Frame 4
Load Pct(%): 18.8, 21.6, 22.0, 7.5,
ECT: 226, 226, 226, 228,
ShrtFT1(%): -0.8, -3.1, 0.8, -3.1,
LongFT1(%): -3.9, -6.3, -3.1, -5.5,
Map (PSI): 9.7, 4.5, 5.9, 5.5,
RPM: 1916, 1151, 1356, 1043,
VSS (MPH): 16, 24, 30, 33,
SparkAVD: 24.5, 27.0, 36.5, 17.0,
IAT: 136, 132, 132, 134,
TP(%): 26.3, 16.1, 16.5, 16.1,
02B1S1(V): 0.780, 0.860, 0.880, 0.200,
ShrtFTB1S1(%): -0.8, -2.3, 1.6, -1.6,
02B1S2(V): 0.740, 0.860, 0.820, 0.820,
ShrtFTB1S2(%): N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A,

 

A properly functioning PCV system will put trace amounts of oil into your intake and it's kindve a misting thing. As long as there is no pooling.

I May have missed it but how is your engine running performance wise?

 

Granted, I've never owned one of these trucks before, so I have nothing to compare it against except my wife's 2012 Journey, which is a completely different motor. HOwever, I did own a 1976 El Camino with a 360 in it. I know the truck is heavy, but out of the box, its good. Around 40 - 50 mph, it shifts into 4th and the high rate of acceleration and power seems to be lost. Before the distri cap and rotor were changed, it would almost bog out and it sounded like my valves were rattling. After the dist cap and rotor change, it performs similarly, but i have more throttle response and i haven't heard rattling valves between 40 & 50 mph. To me it feels like the engine is underpowered in general, but again, that may be just how they are.

Question, when I first hit the gas, from a stopped position, it sounds like a lot of air is being sucked into the engine. Is that normal? I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and couldn't detect a vacuum leak, so I assumed it was normal. If I wouldn't have to worry about the engine temp, I'm pretty sure I would otherwise be happy with the performance. I'm worried that i may have a cracked head, or need rings, or something like that and would like to rule them out if possible. But foremost I need my engine to not overheat, or almost overheat. I am glad that the plenum may not be leaking again.

 

When your truck is cold , pull the rad cap and start it . I suspect you will get lots of bubbles . I'm thinking you have a bad head gasket or a cracked head . Compression testing is needed at this point IMO .

 

Got tired of dealing with this, so I took it to Auto Cool. They checked it for external leaks, and it passed. Tested it for internal leaks, and found combustion gasses in the coolant. Head gasket or cracked head. They don't do repairs there, but a shop close to them does.

Alright guys. Is there a way to find out for sure what the issue is? Are both of these repairable issues, or is the truck pretty much ready for the graveyard? I really like this truck, unfortunately.

 

Do a compression test.

 

I got that, but is there more than 1 test? Sorry to be an idiot here, but are you talking about the test for each plug socket, try to crank the engine, get the reading, then move on to the next one? Do all 8 and check the readings?

 

Yep. Then do it again but squirt a little oil in the dulcimer.

 

Since you confirmed the leak , you now need to remove the heads either way . Once off , the head can be tested at a machine shop for cracks .

 

True. Never done it before. what all do I remove to get to them? Everything from the top half of the engine? I guess I should have done this when I was replacing the plenum pan, huh?

I'm curious about your screen name? Are you a Mason?