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360 Rebuild with New ProCharger

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Old 01-30-2015, 05:24 PM
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Default 360 Rebuild with New ProCharger

I have a 1996 Ram 1500 with the original 360 motor, auto trans, and 170,000 miles. The motor and drivetrain is completely stock other than a set of headers. It still runs okay and doesn't burn oil. It's been babied since I bought it at 6,500 miles. Its power is slowly dwindling. I'm planning a rebuild.

I bought an unused ProCharger from Craigslist last year. Most of the parts are still sealed in bags. The ProCharger didn't come with the owner's manual. Does anyone have one that they can email or snail mail to me? ProCharger isn't responding to me.

I don't want an increase in power at the expense of a bunch of modifications, reduced engine life, and reduced fuel mileage. I know, boring, right? If I win the lottery, I'll change my priorities. I'd prefer not to overbore if I don't have to. I do not intend to lengthen the stroke. I'd like the motor to feel like stock while cruising down the road and passing dollars to the gas station attendant until I need the extra boost. I pull a camp trailer to elk camp once a year which is a total combined vehicle weight of 10,000 lbs. There is a long hill between here and there which pulls it down to 45 MPH. I'd like to be able to maintain 60 MPH or better.

As for the rebuild, I intend to do a plenum reinforcement while I'm in there. It doesn't leak now, but while I'm in there... Other than that, I don't know where to start. What are decent places to order a rebuild kit from? What should be in the kit? What parts are recommended to be changed considering my performance desires explained above and a ProCharger will be used? What should I pay a machine shop to do?
 
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:22 PM
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Drop compression ratio to 8:1, or 8.5:1, select a cam designed for a boosted application, replace the heads with better castings. (Odessa, or Clearwater have 'em, less than 600 for the pair, fully loaded.) In all reality, I would be tempted to replace the stock kegger, with an air-gap, or M1..... just for the better flow characteristics..... (I know, doesn't matter as much with boost.....) Dial it in for 8-10 lbs boost, and make sure you have some variety of fuel management that understands boost......

You can get complete kits (main, rod, cam bearings, seals, gaskets, and rings invarious oversizes....) from Summit, Jegs, or even your local parts store. I would chat with comp cams about the specific cam you want, and that other parts you will need to go with it.

You can do the complete tear-down, just make sure you label your pistons/rods for which hole they come out of, keep rod caps with the right rod, etc. Take the collection of parts to the machine shop, and have EVERYTHING checked out. (Don't even bother with the heads, just replace them, they suck.) Have them do what needs to be done to the block, and assemble the short block for ya. At that point, bring it home, and do the rest. (chat with your machine shop to see what parts they can get you, and for how much..... also, if you don't like their parts prices, see if they will install the parts you bring them, and will they still warranty their work?)
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:58 PM
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Running forced induction causes some issues when dealing with a computer that can't see boost. There is a company called Split Second that makes piggyback controllers to help when running boost. Contact them and get the unit they recommend for your truck. Then start the process of tuning the engine.
 



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