3rd Gen Dakota 2005 - 2011 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 3rd Gen Dakota.

Home built suspension lift

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 04-28-2015, 09:21 PM
i.who.made.you's Avatar
i.who.made.you
i.who.made.you is offline
Professional
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SC
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by projektdirtfab
New Stock length upper control arm with uniballs. Heim joint tie rods Diff drop or high angle cvs. And modify the lower arm to accept an adjustable coilover.
I'd throw a pretty penny at that if the coil-overs bolted in. I even know where to get the everything except the coil-overs. That might end up happening if I can't put enough together this summer for a full LT kit

Anyways, thing off all the suspension parts linking the frame/steering/diff as lines making arcs as the travel up and down (looking at them from the front of the vehicle). With factor suspension they are designed to all arc inwards during upward and downward travel. Although they arc at different rates due to length differences (dynamic camber) they allow for proper steering alignment and optimal ride quality and control since they are all parallel. If the tie rod is angled and not parallel to the control arms, it will push/pull the knuckle against the tucking action of the control arms because it will arc out for a bit while the cas are already arcing in causing the wheel to steer outwards/inward. This is why it's called suspension geometry. This causes dangerous amounts bump steer especially once the sway bar comes off. Check out projektdortfab's heim steering mod thread and it will make a lot more sense.

That's why it's so damn important to offset all mounting points the same, excluding the CV joint as it's length changes by plunging and does not effect steering anyhow.
 

Last edited by i.who.made.you; 04-28-2015 at 11:05 PM.



Quick Reply: Home built suspension lift



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:50 PM.