Just a quick background: In June I finally went to buy a new vehicle. (upgrade from my '94 Isuzu Amigo) I had a few requirements: awd/4wd, tow capable of ~6K, 3 row seating and decent milage despite the first three options. Due to budget constraints it needed to be about $30k at most. This left me in the used vehicle area and nearby there was only a '11 v6 Pathfinder already equipped. I went to look at it but noticed they also had a '11 Durango. After test driving both, I found the Pathfinder extremely uncomfortable and the seating setup was tight. The durango was SO comfortable, well equipped and a great deal that I chose it... despite it not being factory with the tow package. The dealer paid the cost of the OEM tow hitch and wiring which I installed and I did some more to get it fully tow ready. More on that later, but now here's the towing report:

I needed towing to get my project car moved around. There's a car show (Japanese Classic Car Show) in Long Beach, CA that I was finally able to attend. So I loaded up the D with the 16' trailer (~2000lbs) and my car (~2500lbs).

So towing 4500lbs from NM to CA, then stopping through Vegas on the way back and dropping it off in AZ for another car show next month. (When I'll pick it up and bring it home) Altogether I went 1721 miles. Here's a link to the towing path:
NM to Long Beach to Las Vegas to AZ
Now anyone who knows the area is aware that I had to tow through some rough mountainous terrain. Now, this was a concern for me cooling wise, as the D wasn't equipped with the tow package's "heavy duty cooling". After lots of research I found that for the V6's, tow cooling is only the transmission and power steering cooler. I was preparing to add these, but when I looked at the D... it already had it! (might have been factory added since it was sold in the southwest desert?) So the cooling I watched, but was no longer a major concern and set off on this trip. For those that don't know what I was facing, this is an elevation profile of the entire trip (in KM and Meters, haven't learned how to switch it yet):

During the entire 1721 mile trip I ended up using ~117 gal of gas and averaged 14.74 mpg. I REALLY can't complain about that towing 4500lbs and being a lead foot averaging about 65 mph I'd guess. I admittedly pushed the D wanting to test it out and see what it could take. Even the hardest mountain grades I didn't have to drop under 50~55 mph. For those that know, there's the car killer highway between LA and Vegas. That long grade takes many capable vehicles out and it's advised to turn off AC to prevent overheating. Again I wanted to see what the D could do and kept a close eye on temps with the AC on and spiked at the following temps cruising at 60-65 mph:
Transmission Temp - 194
Oil Temp - 244
Coolant Temp - 237
To end the towing report, I'm VERY pleased with the performance on this V6 towing! Since I'll only tow about 2 times a year, this suited my needs perfectly. Also of note, after I dropped off the trailer in AZ awaiting the next show, I finished the 347 mile drive home... using only 1/2 tank and 25.72 mpg despite the mountains.

Now, here's the info about getting my D ready to tow all that:
As mentioned I had the dealer pay for the OEM tow hitch and wire harness:

I also added the brake controller harness and a controller:

Needed to get a full size spare in case there were any issues:

With the trailer weight I initially tried the Airlift rear spring helpers to work with it:

They did well, but I still wanted it a little stiffer. The non-tow rear shocks really are horrible and all Ds should have been equipped with the self leveling rears. I decided for the distance I was traveling to order and install the self-leveling rears:


In the end, the only thing I don't have from the tow package is the 220 amp alternator. Not something I need for the trailer I'm pulling. Tow package parts (full size spare and rear shocks) cost me $750 total, both things I would have wanted even if I wasn't towing. One of the BEST investments I got for towing and didn't mention yet was the hitch ball mount. I ordered the Quiet Hitch 4" drop ball mount adaptor. It was $80, but the trip was QUIET!!!!! None of the adaptor banging around, by far the best investment when traveling that distance!

Here's a final pic of the setup at one of the AZ mountain peak rest stops:

 

I got my Durango primarily for towing our 5,000lb Airstream. I haven't been out for anything but a test drive to set up the weight distributing hitch. Glad to hear it towed well.

 

What is the part number and cost for the shocks alone?

 

The part number I used was 68069843AF. It's for the normal duty (non-rt I think) part #. I was able to get the set for $618 shipped. I know it's pricey, but there isn't an aftermarket replacement option yet and the price was good for mopar parts. Well worth it I think since it makes it ride so much better with or without a trailer.

 

Nice writeup!

 

Very nice write-up. Did you happen to take a shot of the D right after attaching the trailer? I'm interested to know how far the D squatted before you drove and the shocks leveled themselves out.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Awesome write-up! How hard was the install of the hitch receiver and load leveling shocks?

EDIT: Never-mind, just found this how-to for installing the receiver...wow seems crazy easy.

http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/k6861334.pdf

 

This has got to be one of the most comprehensive towing reviews for a V6. While the only thing I'll ever tow in my Crew AWD 6 will be family & luggage, it's great knowing that the Pentastar performed like a champ. Thanks for the review Norge.

We really need some details on the car you were towing. I'm not very versed on classic Japanese cars but they seem cool nonetheless. A friend of mine is in the process of restoring an early 70's Mazda RX3. He's transplanting a 3rd gen RX7 power train into the RX3. Should make for a really fun car.

Rob

 

Coldsteel: the first picture was actually taken right after loading.

03neonRT: yeah, the hitch install was easy. The rear shocks were easy also, once I learned you need to disconnect the sway bar. It helps take the preload off the arms.

RobRacin: it's a '70 Nissan Laurel from japan. It's got a '90s 2l 4 cyl turbo in it. I've got tons of work to do, but that's what projects are for.