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Leaf Springs/Spark Plugs/Oil Change Question

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Old 05-10-2011, 12:06 AM
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Default Leaf Springs/Spark Plugs/Oil Change Question

2007 Ram 5.7 HEMI- 30 K miles

I believe I have squeaky leaf springs in the rear of the truck. It's either the springs or I guess what I would call struts - I think its the springs. Should I worry about this?

Do I need to worry about changing the plugs at 30K? I try to do my own work but I have heard these can be a bear to change out and I'm figuring that there are probably 16 - two for each cylinder. The hardest plug job I've done is on Ford Ranger where you had to have go-go gadget arms and fingers to work around the intake side to get to the plugs. Major PITA but doable.

What oil does this truck need, and I'm interested in the good stuff - I dont cut corners on oil. There was a deal at autozone for 5 qts of 5W-20 full synthetic (I think Castrol) and a free Bosch oil filter for $30. I think the engine is too big for just 5 quarts so I'll have to buy extra, but would this be a good pick? This is the first oil change on this truck as I bought a package deal that included free oil changes for a few years.

Thanks for your help in answering these question!
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:23 AM
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The "search function" is usefull here...but, leaf springs - don't know, need more info. Your plugs should be changed at 30K, as prescribed. It's not difficult, just takes a little time and replace all 16 of them with stockers, Hemi's like them. Some on here have used other plugs with success, but I stick to Champions. Oil - full synthetic is fine, I use Mobile 1 because is easier to get where I'm at, Castrol oil, I have never used. BUT, try the search function, you'll find what your looking for and be able to make a more educated decision! Good luck with your plugs, I just finished my second round in under 3 hours, but I am older and more methodical . I have an '05 Hemi, so make sure you refer to the manual for correct specs for your year of truck.
 

Last edited by MoltenRAMer; 05-10-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:59 AM
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The O/M can provide very useful information. The oil change amount is usually a bit less than seven quarts. I fill the filter, add a five-quart jug and check the level appropriately. It takes about 6 1/2 quarts. I use Hi-Mileage Pennzoil in my Ram. The only vehicle that gets synthetic is my turbo-charged Mazda.

The book says 30K on the plugs, but they can go 50K without much issue.

I doubt it's the shocks that are squeaking, but it's possible.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:14 AM
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Leafs can get squeaky, never hurts to apply a spray type lubricant on them.

As for the plugs, 30k is the recommended interval and it's when I do mine. I've read posts on here where some guys have gone damn near 100k miles on the originals. I can't fathom letting a copper plug go that long myself.
It's a good 3 hour job to change them out yourself, most of them are ok, but the back two are a b*tch, you'll need a good assortment of extensions and adapters to get to the tough ones.

As for the oil, I pretty much do the same thing, look for the "deal" on oil w/filter combo as long as the oil is a 100% full synthetic and the filter doesn't say Fram on it.

If nothing is on sale, I tend to buy Valvoline 100% synthetic and use the NAPA Gold (Wix) filters. But I've used RP, Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 at times. Good filters are the Wix, Purolator Pure One, Mobil 1, RP and K&N.

The viscosity is VERY IMPORTANT if you have an '06+ Hemi with MDS. Stay right on 5w-20 for proper MDS operation...
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:58 AM
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Make sure it isnt the shackles at the end of the leaf springs squeaking. Mine used to and I would spray them with some PB Blaster and they would quit
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:50 PM
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One other quick word of advise, as you've never changed your plugs out in this truck yet, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE PLUGS!!!

These are aluminum heads, wind them down until they touch, then a squeak (hair) touch-----more, or torque them--but good luck with that. I usually go approx 1/8 turn.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:34 PM
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A little bit of anti-sieze on the threads is never a bad idea either, try to get a zinc based product...
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:44 PM
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Remember to gap your plugs, or you'll be doing the work twice when it runs like crap.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:50 PM
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I just did my plugs a few weeks ago on a 2007 Hemi. Every bit of a three our Job for the driveway enthusiast. I also just changed my Oil with the Castrol Edge special you were speaking about. Engine runs fine at speed but for some reason it seems louder and not as smooth at idle, like there is an underlying grinding noise somewhere. Maybe it is just in my head but I thinking about draining and putting conventional oil back in.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 05220713
I just did my plugs a few weeks ago on a 2007 Hemi. Every bit of a three our Job for the driveway enthusiast. I also just changed my Oil with the Castrol Edge special you were speaking about. Engine runs fine at speed but for some reason it seems louder and not as smooth at idle, like there is an underlying grinding noise somewhere. Maybe it is just in my head but I thinking about draining and putting conventional oil back in.

Now that's going to be a hard one to diagnose because you changed TWO things. The only issues I've heard about when going to any synthetic is 1) it will expose existing leaks that may be too small for the larger dino oil molecules to seep out of and 2) The "Hemi Tick" may get slightly louder. Synthetic has smaller molecules, less friction and the tick may be a little bit more audible.
But over-all, engine operation if anything should be smoother/better with a synthetic.

You sure your not having an issue with one of the plugs? I partially split the end of a plug wire in the ex's Grand Cherokee during a plug change once, noticed the idle was slightly erratic and the tack would drop ever so slightly when hitting one cylinder. Pulled 'em all, looked at gaps, looked at wires and all appeared normal (you'd never see a wire separation INSIDE the boot). Finally replaced ONE WIRE AT A TIME until the issue went away. Upon dissection of the wire/boot I found the problem...
 


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