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Removing the Hemi Engine without the Lifting Fixture

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Old 09-13-2012, 06:53 PM
sixdoubleo sixdoubleo is offline
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Default Removing the Hemi Engine without the Lifting Fixture

From those who have done it, can the Hemi engine be easily removed without using the lifting fixture? What is the best way to do it? Just trying to save some money on something I'm likely to only use once...
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:10 PM
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600,----will you give more info, 'lifting fixture', stumped me, can little in general. Do you just mean the adjustable bar with chains between the engine hoist hook and heads? If so?, yes, but its a pain and things can be damaged if it slips.
Does any of your nearest parts stores rent those suckers? Ck with Harbor Fraight.
I haven't used mine since '98. If you live in Katy, you can barrow it.

Tell us what you are up to, on what, 2 or 4wd. Let Weed help you .
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:34 AM
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Find a friend that has one, rent one, or buy one and rent it out to your friends when they need it to recoup some money.
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:07 PM
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Sorry I should have been more specific. I have an engine hoist, chains, etc. I was referring to the OEM lifting fixture mentioned in the service manual.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-TOOL-...-/270729122128

Interested to know how others have pulled the engine, where you attached chains and in what manner...etc.
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:54 PM
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You should be fine if you have a good grip with the chains
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:38 AM
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you will be fine. I used a two chain, 3 bolt method. A chain in the back attached to two bolts on the back of the Heads (where the ground bolts on to the back of each head), and one in the front where the brace in the center of the motor is (small metal plate with four bolt holes between the alternator and AC compressor). Also, if you don't want to break open the AC lines, don't forget about the bolt on the back of the Compressor that attaches to the top of the motor right next to the intake manifold. It's an easily forgotten about bolt.

Edit: The chain in the front wraps around the chain in the back and comes back up front so both ends of the chain are at the front of the motor.
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabin420 View Post
you will be fine. I used a two chain, 3 bolt method. A chain in the back attached to two bolts on the back of the Heads (where the ground bolts on to the back of each head), and one in the front where the brace in the center of the motor is (small metal plate with four bolt holes between the alternator and AC compressor). Also, if you don't want to break open the AC lines, don't forget about the bolt on the back of the Compressor that attaches to the top of the motor right next to the intake manifold. It's an easily forgotten about bolt.

Edit: The chain in the front wraps around the chain in the back and comes back up front so both ends of the chain are at the front of the motor.
Excellent...that makes perfect sense. I pulled the intake off my old engine just to get a better look at things, but want to put the new engine in with the intake on and all buttoned up. Sounds like your method works fine with the intake installed? How about the throttle body? Did you remove that or leave it on? Seems like it might be in the way.
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:27 PM
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Intake and throttle body stayed attached. How easy it is to remove and install, It would make it a lot easier to remove them first tho. Especially if you are taking out a bad motor and don't care about putting it back together.

fluids drained from the radiator, engine and transmission first. Remove the battery, disconnect the starter wires. Driveshaft comes off. Radiator and radiator support was unbolted. The AC system easily folds out in front of the truck and lays on the ground without breaking loose a single AC line. Unhook the electrical at the computers on the passenger's side, and on the driver's side, there is one at the top of the firewall behind the battery tray. Unplug the O2 sensors. The fuse box does not have to move, except for easier access to the motor mounts from above. A little wrestling done with aftermarket headders on (Y pipe needs to be removed). Would have been easier with them off. Power steering pump removed and wire tied to the frame out of the way (It could lay on the ground if you wish. Do not have to take the lines loose. Tranny support comes out. There's a ground on the back of each cylinder head. 13 MM top corner close to the intake. The bolt holes on the front of the heads are the same position as the bolt holes on the back If you want to look at the position before reaching your hand back their.

Going in is a little harder. Make sure the motor mounts go in BEFORE the engine gets in too far to get those large chunks of metal in the slots in the frame.
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Last edited by sabin420; 09-17-2012 at 10:30 PM..
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabin420 View Post
Intake and throttle body stayed attached. How easy it is to remove and install, It would make it a lot easier to remove them first tho. Especially if you are taking out a bad motor and don't care about putting it back together.

fluids drained from the radiator, engine and transmission first. Remove the battery, disconnect the starter wires. Driveshaft comes off. Radiator and radiator support was unbolted. The AC system easily folds out in front of the truck and lays on the ground without breaking loose a single AC line. Unhook the electrical at the computers on the passenger's side, and on the driver's side, there is one at the top of the firewall behind the battery tray. Unplug the O2 sensors. The fuse box does not have to move, except for easier access to the motor mounts from above. A little wrestling done with aftermarket headders on (Y pipe needs to be removed). Would have been easier with them off. Power steering pump removed and wire tied to the frame out of the way (It could lay on the ground if you wish. Do not have to take the lines loose. Tranny support comes out. There's a ground on the back of each cylinder head. 13 MM top corner close to the intake. The bolt holes on the front of the heads are the same position as the bolt holes on the back If you want to look at the position before reaching your hand back their.

Going in is a little harder. Make sure the motor mounts go in BEFORE the engine gets in too far to get those large chunks of metal in the slots in the frame.
Thanks for all your help, bud. I pulled the old motor and took some pics. They are here...

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-...ml#post2869642

I'll use that thread for issues regarding the re-install of the new engine. Again, thank you for your assistance...it really helped.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:44 AM
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Pretty clean
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:44 AM
 
 
 
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