pcm connectors for o2 sensors?
#1
pcm connectors for o2 sensors?
Having a heater issue with bank 2 sensor 2... I want to make sure the harness connector to the pcm is in good clean shape, but don't know which plug it is.
Also, anyone remove the pcm and have tips? I assume its the control box on the underside of the fuse box in the engine compartment...
Also, anyone remove the pcm and have tips? I assume its the control box on the underside of the fuse box in the engine compartment...
#2
#3
#5
update
Inspection guy had it for a couple days, said he spent 3 hours doing diagnostics and was 90% sure it was a bad wire... but needed it next week for another test, then might need it for 2 days if he had to get into the harness... He didn't tell me what tests they did...
So back in my corner.... Using the manual Weed turned me onto... I found it looked like k399 wire was the heater feed. I found that pin 10 on the white PCM connector was where that wire hooked up.
I cut the original o2 sensor off the wire pigtail, stripped the heater wire and the gnd. Plugged my test harness into the truck side harness, then tested the voltage between the battery negative post and the heater wire...turned key on, crawled back under the truck, DMM showed like 0.6V.
So then I pulled the battery positive cable off and caused power drain to make sure any stored capacitance was gone. Pulled the white PCM connector, contacts were clean. Then I hooked battery ground to the k399 wire, clipped my test lamp lead on the positive battery post... and touched pin 10 on the white connector. Lamp lit right up.
I used the test lamp to make sure I was drawing some current, DMM can fool you sometimes.
For extra assurance, I then tested resistance on the k399 wire... DMM thinks its good.
So, I'm thinking I have a bad PCM. Opinions? Any other tests I should do? Where is a good place to source a replacement PCM?
Thanks!
So back in my corner.... Using the manual Weed turned me onto... I found it looked like k399 wire was the heater feed. I found that pin 10 on the white PCM connector was where that wire hooked up.
I cut the original o2 sensor off the wire pigtail, stripped the heater wire and the gnd. Plugged my test harness into the truck side harness, then tested the voltage between the battery negative post and the heater wire...turned key on, crawled back under the truck, DMM showed like 0.6V.
So then I pulled the battery positive cable off and caused power drain to make sure any stored capacitance was gone. Pulled the white PCM connector, contacts were clean. Then I hooked battery ground to the k399 wire, clipped my test lamp lead on the positive battery post... and touched pin 10 on the white connector. Lamp lit right up.
I used the test lamp to make sure I was drawing some current, DMM can fool you sometimes.
For extra assurance, I then tested resistance on the k399 wire... DMM thinks its good.
So, I'm thinking I have a bad PCM. Opinions? Any other tests I should do? Where is a good place to source a replacement PCM?
Thanks!
Last edited by fj5gtx; 06-08-2014 at 02:53 PM.
#6
more info
I put my heater signal volt test to the driver side, surprised.... it does go up in voltage, but quickly settles out to 0.6v. Retested the passenger side, and I find the same pattern. Not really a smoking gun on the PCM like I thought.
I searched for that heater gnd wire in the manual, doesn't show up anywhere else. Thinking that gnd doesn't go back to the pcm.
Next steps?
I guess I could swap sensors and see if I can validate I have a known good one by using bank1.
I could try adding a wire to battery negative, to that bank 2 gnd wire... see if the code goes away.
I could swap the PCM and see if that happens (surely my most expensive and time consuming route).
I searched for that heater gnd wire in the manual, doesn't show up anywhere else. Thinking that gnd doesn't go back to the pcm.
Next steps?
I guess I could swap sensors and see if I can validate I have a known good one by using bank1.
I could try adding a wire to battery negative, to that bank 2 gnd wire... see if the code goes away.
I could swap the PCM and see if that happens (surely my most expensive and time consuming route).
Last edited by fj5gtx; 06-09-2014 at 09:09 PM. Reason: correction
#7
If you need a PCM, check out www.solopcms.com
Later this afternoon I will try to check my AllData for troubleshooting steps
Later this afternoon I will try to check my AllData for troubleshooting steps
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#9
If you need a PCM, check out www.solopcms.com
Later this afternoon I will try to check my AllData for troubleshooting steps
Later this afternoon I will try to check my AllData for troubleshooting steps
I swapped sensors, same code. I found a ref on line for a durango about resistance of the heater gnd, I put my test cable on it... 0.1 ohm to gnd measured with my DMM. I guess I could have tried my test lamp on it, I'm always a bit skeptical about that Fluke 78 DMM when it comes to higher current circuits, got burned once error checking a sensor on a clothes drier. I got schooled by an appliance guy, using his cobbled up light bulb test ! :-/
Last edited by fj5gtx; 06-09-2014 at 08:27 PM. Reason: more info...