Exhaust Manifold broken bolt fix & Shields Needed?
#1
Exhaust Manifold broken bolt fix & Shields Needed?
Finally got around to fixing the 05's hemi engine's broken exhaust Manifold bolts and finally got the last of 3 out. Now I have a couple questions:
1). What method is suggested to clean up the aluminum surface on the head as well as the manifold surface?
2). I'd planned on using fel pro replacement gasket but is there a better option? If so why?
3). What are the two bolts & special nuts called, for the head pipe to exhaust manifold? My local auto zone can't find them? I have Dorman exhaust manifold hardware kit 03211 but they are not included. Is there any other bolt suggestions for this project? I really didn't enjoy drilling bolts broken off below the head!
4). My tin shield is rotted away, do I really need these shields?
5). If I'd like to eventually do shorty headers, what's the best choice?
1). What method is suggested to clean up the aluminum surface on the head as well as the manifold surface?
2). I'd planned on using fel pro replacement gasket but is there a better option? If so why?
3). What are the two bolts & special nuts called, for the head pipe to exhaust manifold? My local auto zone can't find them? I have Dorman exhaust manifold hardware kit 03211 but they are not included. Is there any other bolt suggestions for this project? I really didn't enjoy drilling bolts broken off below the head!
4). My tin shield is rotted away, do I really need these shields?
5). If I'd like to eventually do shorty headers, what's the best choice?
#2
You don't need the shields, just make sure your harness & harness clamps are in their stock locations and not broken and hanging, also make sure your heater hoses are far enough away, mine are in the stock location and are doing great. So far I've got 2500 miles on my truck since the header install, I did my headers sooner because of the 2 broken manifold studs on the last two cylinders.
Usually the easiest way to get those studs out is to heat them up cherry red with a oxy-Acetyline torch or strong propane setup (not hand held), then let them cool for a few seconds and then try to turn them out, if they break use a welder and weld a nut on the broken stud and turn them out.
Don't worry about special bolts, just go to your local hardware store with a reference bolt and your manifold (to check depth & thread type) and get some new bolts with a lock washers (you don't need regular washers, just lock washers by themselves will do the trick), the grade really doesn't matter, I think mine were grade 6 that I used for my headers...whatever they had most of & easily accessible. Get all your bolts for $5, especially if you just put the bolts in the bolt bags they supply and when you get to the checkout just play dumb on the price and they'll just weigh them and give them to you for a super cheap price probably $2-3!
You don't need the shields, so just bolt the manifolds up & go! Lastly, anti seize will probably be a good idea on the new bolts
Usually the easiest way to get those studs out is to heat them up cherry red with a oxy-Acetyline torch or strong propane setup (not hand held), then let them cool for a few seconds and then try to turn them out, if they break use a welder and weld a nut on the broken stud and turn them out.
Don't worry about special bolts, just go to your local hardware store with a reference bolt and your manifold (to check depth & thread type) and get some new bolts with a lock washers (you don't need regular washers, just lock washers by themselves will do the trick), the grade really doesn't matter, I think mine were grade 6 that I used for my headers...whatever they had most of & easily accessible. Get all your bolts for $5, especially if you just put the bolts in the bolt bags they supply and when you get to the checkout just play dumb on the price and they'll just weigh them and give them to you for a super cheap price probably $2-3!
You don't need the shields, so just bolt the manifolds up & go! Lastly, anti seize will probably be a good idea on the new bolts
Last edited by JoshSlash87; 06-06-2016 at 12:41 AM.
#3
I ran around yesterday and wasted at least and two hours in total trying to find the factory replacement bolts for the exhaust manifold to head pipe and never did find anything. Having just read your post, I agree, I am just going to the hardware store and find replacements.
This morning I ran the factory exhaust manifold to a machine shop and their minimum charge was $50 to do anything so that wasnt going to happen. While there I thru their straight edge on the manifold to see how out of wack it might be. Well it was warped as all hell, from the front port to the rear port the manifold was 1/8th of an inch off!!!
So, I'm going to see if I can find a cheap manifold and if not, well then I guess its header time. I dont want to mess with mid or long headers so I will look at shorty's which are a direct replacement.
Any Header Suggestions???
This morning I ran the factory exhaust manifold to a machine shop and their minimum charge was $50 to do anything so that wasnt going to happen. While there I thru their straight edge on the manifold to see how out of wack it might be. Well it was warped as all hell, from the front port to the rear port the manifold was 1/8th of an inch off!!!
So, I'm going to see if I can find a cheap manifold and if not, well then I guess its header time. I dont want to mess with mid or long headers so I will look at shorty's which are a direct replacement.
Any Header Suggestions???
#5
I ran around yesterday and wasted at least and two hours in total trying to find the factory replacement bolts for the exhaust manifold to head pipe and never did find anything. Having just read your post, I agree, I am just going to the hardware store and find replacements.
This morning I ran the factory exhaust manifold to a machine shop and their minimum charge was $50 to do anything so that wasnt going to happen. While there I thru their straight edge on the manifold to see how out of wack it might be. Well it was warped as all hell, from the front port to the rear port the manifold was 1/8th of an inch off!!!
So, I'm going to see if I can find a cheap manifold and if not, well then I guess its header time. I dont want to mess with mid or long headers so I will look at shorty's which are a direct replacement.
Any Header Suggestions???
This morning I ran the factory exhaust manifold to a machine shop and their minimum charge was $50 to do anything so that wasnt going to happen. While there I thru their straight edge on the manifold to see how out of wack it might be. Well it was warped as all hell, from the front port to the rear port the manifold was 1/8th of an inch off!!!
So, I'm going to see if I can find a cheap manifold and if not, well then I guess its header time. I dont want to mess with mid or long headers so I will look at shorty's which are a direct replacement.
Any Header Suggestions???
The shortys sound nice, but for slightly more effort you'll get a dyno proven 15hp and 18ft lbs of torque, I LOVE mine, the *** end just squats when I hammer the gas. Whatever you decide for manifold/header/shorties or mids use the felpro gaskets with copper permatex, they'll seal
Last edited by JoshSlash87; 06-08-2016 at 01:18 AM.
#7
You can find good deals on ebay and craigslist, got my JBA mids off craigslist for $150 but would have been happy to have paid full price for them new had I known what a great job they do and if I didn't already get a great deal on mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBA-Headers-...9Vy4H0&vxp=mtr
Last edited by JoshSlash87; 06-08-2016 at 03:38 AM.
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#8
Thank you for the info & help. She's back together & no leaks. Since I used anti seize I only used 15 ft/lbs of torque. I ended up doing some slight bending/ adjusting of the exhaust so it wouldn't be applying pressure.
I definitely learned that cheap HF sandpaper is junk, went back to 3M & it cut it nicely. Here was the finished product.
I definitely learned that cheap HF sandpaper is junk, went back to 3M & it cut it nicely. Here was the finished product.