Help....truck will not start, full tank gauge reads empty.. leaving town in 3 days
#1
07-30-2016, 12:59 PM
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Help....truck will not start, full tank gauge reads empty.. leaving town in 3 days
Okay, here's what I've got.....
Since the last time the truck was driven, a couple weeks ago, I used an obd2 tool to clear a engine code. 440 and 456? I've had this on for a couple years so I don't believe this is the cause of my problem. Went out today to hook up my trailer and truck wouldn't start. Cranks over but no start. I had just filled the tank on the last drive and the gauge reads empty. I can hear a clicking coming from the relays in the fuse block and I hear the fuel pump kicking on and off in response to the clicking. Swapped relays multiple times to test the Fuel pump relay with no effect. I can smell fuel and I'm going to hook up a gauge to see if I have pressure. Grounds all look good and connectors are tight, NOT throwing any codes. Any ideas where to start? Fuel pump? Crank sensor?
Since the last time the truck was driven, a couple weeks ago, I used an obd2 tool to clear a engine code. 440 and 456? I've had this on for a couple years so I don't believe this is the cause of my problem. Went out today to hook up my trailer and truck wouldn't start. Cranks over but no start. I had just filled the tank on the last drive and the gauge reads empty. I can hear a clicking coming from the relays in the fuse block and I hear the fuel pump kicking on and off in response to the clicking. Swapped relays multiple times to test the Fuel pump relay with no effect. I can smell fuel and I'm going to hook up a gauge to see if I have pressure. Grounds all look good and connectors are tight, NOT throwing any codes. Any ideas where to start? Fuel pump? Crank sensor?
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07-30-2016, 02:02 PM
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07-30-2016, 02:44 PM
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07-31-2016, 05:46 PM
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#7
07-31-2016, 06:49 PM
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#8
08-01-2016, 06:53 AM
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Battery and connections are fine, battery was load tested. I only tested a plug without the coil pack attached, is there a difference? How would I know if the injectors are not firing? I have pressure at the rail, all fuses are good.
Thanks
#9
08-01-2016, 10:47 PM
Captain
Injector testing
There is a test light specifically for testing injectors that you can get at any auto parts store. The name escapes me right now.
Or you can use a simple test light.
The injectors all have one wire in common for 12 volt power. They are all the same color. Test it by connecting the clip on the test light to the battery ground and the probe to the 12 volt wire on the injector.
NOW, IMPORTANT TO KNOW: You will only have ~3 seconds when you turn the key on to see this if the engine doesn't start.
The other wire on the injector comes from the PCM, and each one is a different color. What you are looking for here is a quick flash of your test light as the PCM triggers the injector. For this test, connect the clip on your test light to the battery positive terminal and the probe on the injector wire from the PCM.
Once again, you will only have ~3 seconds to see it if the engine doesn't start but this time the engine has to be cranking (turning).
Or you can use a simple test light.
The injectors all have one wire in common for 12 volt power. They are all the same color. Test it by connecting the clip on the test light to the battery ground and the probe to the 12 volt wire on the injector.
NOW, IMPORTANT TO KNOW: You will only have ~3 seconds when you turn the key on to see this if the engine doesn't start.
The other wire on the injector comes from the PCM, and each one is a different color. What you are looking for here is a quick flash of your test light as the PCM triggers the injector. For this test, connect the clip on your test light to the battery positive terminal and the probe on the injector wire from the PCM.
Once again, you will only have ~3 seconds to see it if the engine doesn't start but this time the engine has to be cranking (turning).
Last edited by Friar Tuck; 08-01-2016 at 10:52 PM.
#10
08-03-2016, 12:56 AM
Captain
Noid Light
There is a test light specifically for testing injectors that you can get at any auto parts store. The name escapes me right now.
Or you can use a simple test light.
The injectors all have one wire in common for 12 volt power. They are all the same color. Test it by connecting the clip on the test light to the battery ground and the probe to the 12 volt wire on the injector.
NOW, IMPORTANT TO KNOW: You will only have ~3 seconds when you turn the key on to see this if the engine doesn't start.
The other wire on the injector comes from the PCM, and each one is a different color. What you are looking for here is a quick flash of your test light as the PCM triggers the injector. For this test, connect the clip on your test light to the battery positive terminal and the probe on the injector wire from the PCM.
Once again, you will only have ~3 seconds to see it if the engine doesn't start but this time the engine has to be cranking (turning).
Or you can use a simple test light.
The injectors all have one wire in common for 12 volt power. They are all the same color. Test it by connecting the clip on the test light to the battery ground and the probe to the 12 volt wire on the injector.
NOW, IMPORTANT TO KNOW: You will only have ~3 seconds when you turn the key on to see this if the engine doesn't start.
The other wire on the injector comes from the PCM, and each one is a different color. What you are looking for here is a quick flash of your test light as the PCM triggers the injector. For this test, connect the clip on your test light to the battery positive terminal and the probe on the injector wire from the PCM.
Once again, you will only have ~3 seconds to see it if the engine doesn't start but this time the engine has to be cranking (turning).
IT'S A "NOID" light.