4th Gen Ram Tech2009+ and up Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2009 and up Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Hi All, I have a 2012 Ram 1500 with a Hemi. It also has the class 4 hitch and the 7 pin trailer wiring connector on the back. I want to get one of the Mopar trailer brake controllers, but I can only find one grey connector under the dash. The one dealer told me that if there is one there should be both, and one other dealer had no idea along with Dodge. Can anyone help me with knowing if I can use the Mopar trailer brake controller? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Has a Dodge dealer looked for the second connector themselves or did you only speak with them? Some Ram's are built with both connectors and others will only have one, they are normally located right beside each other if there are two. A Dodge dealer can can confirm if you have one or two.
Before ordering the Mopar Integrated Trailer Brake Module (ITBM) kit, it is necessary to make sure the vehicle has both trailer brake module connectors. These connectors are located under left side of the steering column. Both connecters are 4 pin connectors. If both connecters are not present the kit cannot be added to the vehicle.
I hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.
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I called Dodge again today and they said it will work with only one connector and one dealer said that also. I can only find one connector under my dash. I just want a straight answer on what to do to get a functioning trailer brake controller in my Ram. This has been so frustrating getting different answers from everyone. Since I can only fine one gray connector, is that used to hook up an aftermarket controller? I would really appreciate any advice on what to do.
Seems like your issue is common. I googled "oem brake controller cable 2012 ram" and found some info. Basically, your missing the CAN Bus+, CAN Bus- and the switched +12VDC. The CAN bus is so that the controller can communicate to the truck and thus display on the EVIC if the truck is flashed for the brake controller. The CAN bus is not needed for the OEM brake controller to work. So if you can look around and find the missing plug to the OEM brake controller you can make your own cable. Supposedly many have done this. If you don't care about the EVIC, then just add the +12 VDC to the connector or find another way to wire it to the controller.
Last edited by Pedro Dog; 05-16-2013 at 05:11 PM..
I thought it was some 2009s and early build 2010s that was missing the second plug. I guess they kept using the 1 plug wire harness. From what i have read after install it is not needed to get the brake controller option flashed to the truck to make it function unless you want to have it show up in the display in the gauge cluster.
I have the same truck and there is only one connector. The problem with going to an aftermarket module is that it will be installed below the plastic skirting under the steering wheel. This is too low for me I know my shin will be hitting it getting in and out of the truck. I haven't looked at trying to get it installed in the spot where the oem one would be installed. I just don't want to be left with a hokey looking install with cut plastic. All the literature on it says if you don't have the second plug it won't work. I don't really understand why my truck was set up with the towing package, switch for tow trailer and you can add an oem braking device. I am concerned just putting it in with one plug because supposedly my truck has brake assist. The dealer told me this takes over on a real quick brake pedal depress in an emergency situation. So if the trailer isn't in sync with that is that going to be a problem? I'm taking my Hemi out to Sturgis towing 3 expensive bikes and I don't want to be that guy Jack knifed on the side of the road. This is regodamdiculios there must be a clean solution other than 3rd party product.
First let me say that he brake assist has nothing to do with the trailer brake controller. Trailer brake controllers have built in accelerometers that sense the deceleration of the tow vehicle and then apply a proportionate voltage to the trailer brakes magnets to provide the proper amount of braking.
Another thing is that the reason the OEM brake controller will not work with only the one connector, is that it needs the second connector for supplying the switched +12VDC. Others have installed the OEM by connecting the one existing connector and then soldering ignition switched +12VDC to the input of the OEM controller where the second connector would go. The ones that do this don't have the ability to monitor the controller on the EVIC.
I have a 2009 with the aftermarket controller installed under the dash just above the gas pedal and don't have a problem hitting it. Different folks have different seating positions and the ergonomics vary so if it bothers you then your have a couple of options.
1) Install the aftermarket in the spot where the OEM goes and make it as pretty as you can.
2) Install and OEM controller as mentioned in my second paragraph.
Thank you great info.
There was a post some time ago that it said to buy part no. 68049133AA and I believe this part is a siamese connection to steal switched power from the single connector. Do you know if that is what it's for?
Also, I don't know what the EVIC is? Perhaps I don't have this option.
With the single plug I am guessing that flashing into the trucks computer is not necessary so this is starting to sound like a DIY job.
I, too, would be very interested in learning how to wire the OEM trailer brake module. My truck, also, came with just 1 connector for the trailer electric brakes. The guy at the dealership told me that the factory Integrated Trailer Brake Module would work in my truck. I bought it, and I can't get it to work. I would like to know which pins (of the 4) do I put 12Vdc to?? Which is positive, which is ground? Any help is greatly appreciated!
You have the large connector and are missing the small one. After market units use the large connector. To get the Factory one to actually work you need to jump pins A3 from the large connector to B3 on the small one.
The large connector is wired as follows;
A1 = Ground
A2 = Brake Lamp Output
A3 = 12 volt Positive
A4 = Trailer Brake signal
The small connector is wired as follows;
B1 = CAN C Bus (-)
B2 = CAN C Bus (+)
B3 = Fused Ignition Run/Start Control Output
B4 = Unused