I almost have the water pump off my 1995 dodge caravan 3.0. I have one more "lil" problem. I had my clymers/haynes manual at the ready and dived in to the job(timing belt and water pump replacement) I'm down to the last bolt on the water pump. The top one. There is a bracket that runs thru the middle of the bolt not allowing you to get a wrench on it. I looked at the picture in the manual and sure enough it shows it . My problem is : .......to get that bracket off to access the bolt I have to remove the alternator mount and to to that I have to pull the cam sprocket (aaargh). The manifold/plenum/valley cover will not allow me to back out the bolts to get the bracket off. The bolt hits the bottom of the plenum b4 it is outta the bracket. The only way now is to extract the bracket and that means the alternator bracket has to come off!!![/align]No where in the manual does it say that I need to do that. it doesn't mention the bracket. it just says unscrew the bolts and the water pump falls into your lil sweet hand!!![/align]Am I screwed up? or is the manual just woefully incomplete. I have read where changing the water pump on the 3.0 wasn't a big deal. I have not found that to be the case !!!!!! HELP[/align]Thanks [/align]Joe[/align]
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Removing that cam pulley doesn't do anything for my bracket that is in the way.
I have a another dodge 3.0. The original post was from 2007 I sold the car "as is" before I would take the "top" of the motor off to get at the last water pump bolt out.
Now it is 4 years later and I HAVE THE SAME FREAKING PROBLEM AND NO WRITE UP ON TAKING THE WATER PUMP OFF A 3.0 SAYS ANYTHING ABOUT DIFFICULTY GETTING THE TOP WATER PUMP BOLT OUT. It can't be that those folks that wrote up those instructions had NEVER taken one off them selves could it??? I am stumped and with the ease that everyone says the water pump comes off I HAVE TO BE OVER LOOKING SOMETHING .....help!!!!!!!!
That little foot was a great idea! I looked at it closer and I don't think that I could back the bolt all the way out if I could get on it with that wrench.
I'm going to grind the head off the middle bolt. The first bolt on the right side is out. If I loosen the left side and cut off the middle I should be able to swing that bracket out of the way.
I'm trying to adapt a 5 inch wheel on a 3 inch grinder to get in there to do the deed. my big grinder hits the plenum before it gets to the bolt and the little grinder gets close but the blade is to short, so once again, I have to clouge something together to make it work.
I know it isn't this difficult because some one would have written it up before, I'm going to hate myself when the right answer appears ARRRRGH
I ground the head off the middle bolt and swung the bracket out for access. Please tell me the right way to do this, It cannot be this &^%$ UP!
With the 5 inch wheel on the 3 inch grinder I didn't have much torque on the cutting edge and I almost smoked my compressor trying to keep up. I waited for the compressor to catch up and it took almost 1/2 an hour to grind off the bolt.
But again, if this was the procedure to get a water pump off a 95 Caravan, surely some one would have written it up and not told you "just take out the bolts and the pump will fall into your hands". I'm missing something obvious and it cost me 4-6 hours screwing around with this stumbling block.
I'll have my grinder ready for the next one I encounter.
ARROW POINTS TO THE BOLT I WAS TRYING TO EXTRACT. AFTER I MOVED THAT BRACKET , IT IS STANDING UP SMILING NOW LOL
I knew there was an easier way.................. the bolt that this thread is about is not a bolt that holds the pump to the block. It is a bolt that holds the 2 halves of the pump together, the pump and pump housing. From the front it sure looks like a bolt that secures the pump, but when you get the pump off in your hands it becomes very obvious that I wasted 1/2 a day over nothing, plus thru away a car because of it
At any time I could of yanked on the pump and it would have fallen into my lil hands. I sold that van in 2007 because I couldn't get the last bolt off............ now that's a pisser, huh
I'm going to hate myself when the right answer appears ARRRRGH
Joe the "Grinder"
Naw, I really don't hate myself, I'm going to get the job done and save hundreds over what the dealer would have charged........ if you don't make mistakes ya ain't doing anything.
Ya know this is really one of those times that if I had smacked it with a bigger hammer instead of trying to figure it out, the damn thing wudda fallen on the ground and it would have been a non-issue LOLOL
Even after reading the warning by Wilcom, I made a similar mistake that caused me to waste time. So I'll give a more general solution to avoid the mistake.
The water pump is held onto the engine by the larger bolts, mostly around the bottom of the pump, and one coming down vertically into the top of the pump through a plate that is bolted to the alternator bracket. All of the smaller bolts around the top, including the one that caused the problem with Wilcom, do NOT have to be removed at all to remove the water pump from the engine. The smaller bolts, plus one screw, are only there to hold the two halves of the water pump together, along with a screw coming from the back. These can be removed once the water pump is off the car.
I made similar mistakes to what Wilcom did, and wasted at least two to three hours on the job, trying to get one of the small bolts off while the water pump was still on the engine. I cussed the designers, but it wasn’t their fault, it was mine. Repeat: It is NOT necessary to remove ANY of the smaller bolts to get the water pump off of the engine.
Here is what you need to do to get the water pump off -- no more.
-- Disconnect battery negative
-- Raise front of van on jack stands
-- Remove RF wheel and spash shields to expose front of engine
-- Loosen radiator cap to remove pressure
-- Remove lower radiator hose from radiator to drain radiator coolant
-- Remove air conditioner pulley from crankshaft, and remove air conditioner belt
-- Remove the serpentine belt
-- Use impact wrench to loosen the harmonic dampener and serpentine pulley bolt from the crankshaft, and remove those components from the crankshaft.
-- Disconnect electrical harnesses that get in the way
-- Support the bottom of the engine with a jack under the oil pan (pad with a piece of wood).
-- Remove top bolt and cross bolt and disconnect engine mount to fender. Remove bracket from the fender.
-- Remove the idler pulley for the serpentine belt.
-- Remove two bolts that go through the power steering pump into the front engine mount bracket. (guide the bolts out through one of the holes in the power steering pump pulley.
-- Go to the rear of the engine, and loosen one mounting bolt for the power steering pump, and remove the other, so that the power steering pump remains there attached lossely, but can be rocked in the front.
-- Remove harness and nuts that hold the A/C compressor to its bracket, and slide the compressor out enough to access bolts to remove the compressor bracked from the engine. You do NOT need to disconnect the air condition lines. Just let it hang there.
-- Despite what some instructions say, you do not need to loosen the alternator or its bracket.
-- Remove the remainder of the bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the front of the engine. One long bolt might have trouble getting past the inner fender. If so, raise the engine slightly until it clears.
-- Take the engine mount support bracket off the front of the engine. You’ll need to tilt it away from the engine on the right side (as you look at it) and guide it out from behind the power steering pump pulley.
-- Remove the covers for the timing belt.
-- Suggest you get the timing belt pulley marks aligned to their pulley positions. Then put a mark on each pulley and a corresponding space on the timing belt. This will help when you put the belt back on. Even if you decide to put a new timing belt on, later you can lay them both on the floor and count the teeth to put the same marks on the new belt you are going to install.
-- Remove the timing belt tensioner spring
-- Remove the timing belt.
-- Remove the water pump, following the instructions above, taking out only the larger bolts around the bottom and one large bolt coming down vertically from the top.
-- The water pump should pull straight out and off. It is pushed on a water pipe to the engine with a rubber seal, so you might have to work it a little to get it to pull out forward.
--While the water pump is off, you might consider putting on a new timing belt, and a new lower crankshaft seal. Instructions can be found elsewhere on the internet.
-- Reassemble in reverse order.
-- Dealers say this is a 4.5 hour labor job. Maybe if you’ve done several of them, you might be able to do that. I’d plan for at least twice that long.
I should mention that the long list of steps I describe were for a 1999 Caravan 3.0 liter. But the problem sure sounds the same as what Wilcom described for the 1995, so I'm hoping my list will help other model years.