Changing Brake Pads
#2
RE: Changing Brake Pads
I just did my wifes 05 SXT this summer. They're real easy on this van. 1st thing is you'll need a 7mm hex socket to get the caliper off. then open the bleeder screw and compress the caliper using a large c-clamp.Close the bleeder before removing tension from the c-clamp so you dont suck air in. Then basically either have the rotors machined or buy new ones. Now you can take the caliper off and remove the old pads. Clean the caliper contact points with some medium sandpaper and lube the contact points with caliper grease, also the backs of the new pads. Reasemble, top off with brake fluid, start it up. pump brakes to seat them, and then break them in.Then sit back have a [sm=alcoholic.gif]and enjoy your work!!
#4
RE: Changing Brake Pads
what the hell are you going to open the bleeder for? ? your asking for issues if you open the bleeder.. NEVER open the bleeder to change pads unless you HAVE too... just use the c-clamp.. you might get some overflow coming out of the master cylinder.. thats fine.. just use the c clamp.. compress the caliper plunger all the way.. swap out the pads.. do this on both sides.. then when its all back together.. start it up and pump the brakes.. they should tighten up after about 4-6 pumps.. then top off with brake fluid if you lost any..
#5
RE: Changing Brake Pads
I agree with dishdude. Don't open the bleeder screw unless it is necessary. The calipers are very easy to backoff on this car. Just use the c-clamp and backoff the caliper. Keep an eye on the brake fluid because it may overflow. The antirattle clips were a little tricky at first.
#6
RE: Changing Brake Pads
The point of opening the bleeders is to reduce the possibility of the ABS control module of getting contaminants pushed back into it when the pistons are compressed. It also gets some fresh fluid in the system. If it was a non-abs vehicle sure, i've done it plenty of time without.
#7
RE: Changing Brake Pads
good grief.. if its in the line.. its in the abs.. think about it.. its the same fluid no matter if its at the caliper or in the master cylinder.. only way your going to get contaminants in it are if the brake lines/ calipers are busted open.. rusted out.. etc.. i never heard of the whole 'to reduce contamination of the abs' crap in my life.. yall are tryin to make a simple brake job out to be a whole lot more than what it is.. soon as he opens the bleeders.. he has to bleed the system when hes done.. period.. there is no need for that
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#8
RE: Changing Brake Pads
Actually, you can damage the ABS systems in some vehicles by reversing the flow with too much pressure (particularly systems used in older Ford cars). However, if you do it nice and easy, there's no problem using a clamp or channel locks. 40-60 seconds to compress is slow enough to eliminate the risk of damage.
Ahh, so you're one of those people I'm cursing while scrubbing old, nasty dirt-caked, baked-on moly lube off the calipers. Seriously, if you use decent quality pads, there's no need to slobber them with anything at all. The only place for lube on a caliper is inside the slide pin bushings (silicon lube)or along the sliding surfaces where caliper contacts saddle (moly lubeor anti-seize).
For many years people have been coming up with ways to make crappy pads not sqeak, from rubbery cements on the backing to goo that is applied to the friction side and actually baked in. My solution is to not use crappy pads, and it works.
Clean the caliper contact points with some medium sandpaper and lube the contact points with caliper grease, also the backs of the new pads.
For many years people have been coming up with ways to make crappy pads not sqeak, from rubbery cements on the backing to goo that is applied to the friction side and actually baked in. My solution is to not use crappy pads, and it works.
#9
RE: Changing Brake Pads
amen
ORIGINAL: Sixtysixdeuce
Actually, you can damage the ABS systems in some vehicles by reversing the flow with too much pressure (particularly systems used in older Ford cars). However, if you do it nice and easy, there's no problem using a clamp or channel locks. 40-60 seconds to compress is slow enough to eliminate the risk of damage.
Ahh, so you're one of those people I'm cursing while scrubbing old, nasty dirt-caked, baked-on moly lube off the calipers. Seriously, if you use decent quality pads, there's no need to slobber them with anything at all. The only place for lube on a caliper is inside the slide pin bushings (silicon lube)or along the sliding surfaces where caliper contacts saddle (moly lubeor anti-seize).
For many years people have been coming up with ways to make crappy pads not sqeak, from rubbery cements on the backing to goo that is applied to the friction side and actually baked in. My solution is to not use crappy pads, and it works.
Actually, you can damage the ABS systems in some vehicles by reversing the flow with too much pressure (particularly systems used in older Ford cars). However, if you do it nice and easy, there's no problem using a clamp or channel locks. 40-60 seconds to compress is slow enough to eliminate the risk of damage.
Clean the caliper contact points with some medium sandpaper and lube the contact points with caliper grease, also the backs of the new pads.
For many years people have been coming up with ways to make crappy pads not sqeak, from rubbery cements on the backing to goo that is applied to the friction side and actually baked in. My solution is to not use crappy pads, and it works.
#10
RE: Changing Brake Pads
Yeah thats me, but I clean the caliper each time so at least it isnt layered . I dont use cheap pads ( usually Satisfied Pro Ceramics). I did it once and NEVER again.Iguess I never really tried it without lubing the backing, I just dont have the time to do it twice. Either the kids have to go somewhere or the wife wants to know " Are you done yet?"