both harnesses are fine that you mentioned.. any other ideas? been over a week that my van has been down .... cant afford to send it to the shop especially not knowing what it is or could be ... got very shallow pockets

 

Here is a test that we use at the dealership. If you want the rest of the pdf file send me your emil address and i'll send it. You will need to have access to a DRB3 scan tool.
Symptom:
*ENGINE CRANKS DOES NOT START
POSSIBLE CAUSES
FUEL PUMP RELAY
NO START PRE-TEST
POWERTRAIN FUSES OPEN
FUEL PRESSURE OUT OF SPECS
RESTRICTED FUEL SUPPLY LINE
FUEL PUMP INLET STRAINER PLUGGED
FUEL PUMP MODULE
FUEL PUMP CAPACITY (VOLUME) OUT OF SPECS
FUEL PUMP RELAY FUSED B+ CIRCUIT
OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR NO START
FUEL PUMP RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
FUEL PUMP GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
IPM FUSE & RELAY CENTER
FUEL PUMP MODULE
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
1 Note: The following list of items must be checked before continuing with
any no start tests.
The battery must be fully charged and pass a load test. A low charge battery may
produce invalid test results. If the battery is low, charge the battery and then attempt
to start the vehicle by cranking the engine for 15 seconds, 3 consecutive times.
This will allow any DTC’s to set that may have been erased due to a dead battery.
Ensure the Battery, Ignition voltage and Ground to the PCM are ok.
Make sure the PCM communicates with the DRBIIIt and that there are no DTC’s
stored in the PCM memory. If the PCM reports a No Response condition, refer to the
Communication category for the proper tests.
Read the PCM DTC’s with the DRBIIIt. If any DTC’s are present, they must be
repaired before continuing with any other No Start diagnostic tests. Refer to the
Symptom list for the related P-code that is reported by the PCM.
Ensure that the PCI bus is functional. Attempt to communicate with the Instrument
Cluster and SKIM, If you are unable to establish communicate refer to the
Communication category for the proper symptoms.
The Sentry Key Immobilizer System must be operating properly. Check for proper
communication with the DRBIIIt and check for DTC’s that may be stored in the
Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM). repair the DTC(s) before continuing.
If no DTC’s are found, using the DRBIIIt select Clear PCM (Batt Disconnect).
Crank the engine several times. Using the DRBIIIt, read DTC’s. If a DTC is present
perform the DTC diagnostics before continuing.
Were any problems found?

 

I have also recently run into this problem. My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport with the 3.3 liter V-6 started stalling after running great since we bought it 4 years ago. Then one morning it stalled on my way to work. I did notice as was mentioned that the first time it stalled it was when making a left hand turn. It took a few minutes before it restarted but I made it to work. That day after work it seemed fine until I got about 4 miles down the road cruising at 60 mph when the engine stopped. I was able to pull it over but this time it didn't restart for almost 20 minutes. I was able to drive it about 17 miles before it died again, and this time I ended up towing it home because it didn't want to restart. The next morning it started fine but now I can't drive it more than a mile or so at any speed before it stalls. Again, sometimes it restarts immediately, other times I have to wait at least 15 minutes. The only error code it shows says something like Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts, which makes sense since I usually disconnect the battery when working around the engine if it was recommended by the service manual. The check engine light is not on, and in case this helps, it only had between 1/4 to 1/2 tank of gas while this is happening. I have also noticed that during the times it doesn't want to restart, when I turn the key to the position where all the dash lights come on (but before cranking position), I hear a clicking sound coming from the area of the fuse box. The engine turns over just fine, it just doesn't fire up. Is this problem similar to the ones addressed in the above posts?

 

My van stalled while my girlfriend was driving it, would not start back up, towed it over to a safer location and it fired up, got maybe 5 miles down the road and died again. Now all that happens is get all the electric lights and stuff come on but not crank no start, replaced the crank sensor still same issue, then I put in a junk yard pcm and it fired up a few times but then would die within seconds, now it is back to no crank no start and all you hear is starter relay clicking. I am guessing now must be in wiring? And info would be greatful