The Mopar part number for the oil filter for the 3.6 engine is 68079744AB. The removal and installation will follow. The transmission fluid is checked with a special tool and depends on trans fluid temperature. basically if you have no leak, assume it is full. Or get your oil changed at the dealer (at least we check it)
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter. Chrysler Corporation recommends a Mopar® or equivalent oil filter be used. CAUTION:When performing an engine oil change, the oil filter cap must be removed. Removing the oil filter cap releases oil held within the oil filter cavity and allows it to drain into the sump. Failure to remove the cap prior to reinstallation of the drain plug will not allow complete draining of the used engine oil.
1.Place an oil absorbant cloth around the oil filter housing at the base of the oil filter cap.
NOTE:The oil filter (3) is attached to the oil filter cap (2).2.Rotate the oil filter cap (1) counterclockwise and remove the cap (1) and filter (3) from the oil filter housing.
3.Remove the oil filter (3) from the oil filter cap (2).4.Remove and discard the O-ring seal (1).
NOTE:It is not necessary to pre-oil the oil filter or fill the oil filter housing.1.Lightly lubricate the new O-ring seal (1) with clean engine oil.2.Install the O-ring seal (1) on the filter cap (2).3.Install the new oil filter (3) into the oil filter cap (2).
4.Thread the oil filter cap (1) into the oil filter housing and tighten to 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).5.Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/OIL - Standard Procedure) .
The Nut on top is a 24mm nut. You'll have to pull the air filter box up to replace it.
loosen the Oil filter before you drain the oil, and remove filter After you done draining the oil. or else oil will be dripping all over when you pull the filter out.
As for now, please stick with a Mopar filter. If you go aftermarket, make sure the aftermarket filter is the same size as the OEM one.
I used a 13mm to break loose the nut on the oil pan, then went up and let air into the system as described above by steak59 - thank you for the early advice, easy reading knowledge, lets all share! Love it!
So here is a few additional photos, the airbox removed, with either a flat head, or a 5/16" hex, I loosened only the intake side, removed the small 3/4" or so diameter hose from the airbox end just above the air filter, unclamped the cover and removed the entire assembly to get EASY access to the filter, not to mention not to knock anything into the oil filter assembly once it's removed.
After removing that assembly, I gently loosened the oil filter top, with a 24mm socket (thanks for the above size advice, typical socket sets do not included this size - go buy one if you do not have one and plan to do your own oil changes - use the right tool not an adjustable wrench)
here is a shot without my hand pointing to the oil filter cartridge case
Last edited by thevalleyboy; 10-08-2012 at 04:47 PM..
I always waste a little fresh oil and run it through (about a cup/250ml) just to give it a little rinse, hence why I had the filler cap off, and a rag to check the dip stick sitting on the air filter, and a funnel in the oil tube. I take my time, have a beer letting it drip as much used oil out as possible. I also usually run it for a minute or 2 prior to draining, getting it a bit warm for easy flow, and to mix it all up. Any thoughts on this? I had a mechanic once tell me it was a good idea, but also another that says it doesn't matter.
To re-tighten the oil filter assembly it states 25Nm on the top (24mm assembly) - about 220 in. lbs. (correct me if my conversion is wrong), I always do the oil pan by feel (13mm plug), but if someone knows the correct torque spec. please share it.
I like to use a large pair of locking pliers to hold the oil container so I do not have to, just to get it all out. I also keep my containers, and filters to safely dispose of them at our local dump (special drop off area not the landfill), no point in polluting mother earth any more than needed.
........ I also usually run it for a minute or 2 prior to draining, getting it a bit warm for easy flow, and to mix it all up. Any thoughts on this? ......
There are two good ways to get the maximum amount of dirty oil out of the motor. There is also one way I can think of to minimize the amount of dirty oil being drained.
The first good way is to drive the vehicle under load for a minimum of 10 miles which will allow the oil to reach temps around 175 degrees F or more. At this point, the oil drain plug will be hot to the touch and you need to be careful not to burn yourself when the oil is drained. Waiting at least 30 minutes to drain it will help ensure the oil is under 150 degrees F and almost all oil drained back into the oil pan. The heat will allow the oil to flow well, so the engine flushes and drains well.
The second good way is to leave the car parked for many hours, or better yet, at least a day, and do NOT start the motor. In this scenario, almost all the oil will be sitting in the oil pan ready to be drained. A film of cool oil will remain clinging to the pan surface after draining, but it wouldn't amount to more than a tablespoon if you let it drip out for 1/2 hr.
The worst way would be to start a cold motor for a minute or two to disperse cold oil, thick throughout the engine internal passageways, bearing surfaces and block surface. It would take possibly a full week for that cold oil to drain back to the pan because it has good cling properties when cold. The amount of dirty oil remaining in your engine after a brief cold start of this sort is likely approaching 1/2 qt.