Aluminum Wheel Lug Nut Torque Spec?
#2
100 ft/lbs for our 2001 ES. I have found, however, that as the van has gotten older, it will not hold the original setting and I have to go back a couple of days later to retighten. My guess is that the studs have become stretched over time due to grease monkeys hammering them with an impact gun rather than using a torque wrench or torque stick.
#4
100 ft/lbs for our 2001 ES. I have found, however, that as the van has gotten older, it will not hold the original setting and I have to go back a couple of days later to retighten. My guess is that the studs have become stretched over time due to grease monkeys hammering them with an impact gun rather than using a torque wrench or torque stick.
The lug nut torque is always stated in the Owner Manual. For a 2008, it's 95 ft. lb. for example. I tend to use 100 ft. lb. unless I have used a lubricant. Then I use 90 to 95 ft.lbs.
#5
Yes, I always back it off and never break loose with it. I am an industrial maintenance mechanic/machinist of 30+ years.
I have a CDI model 2503MFRMH. They are a Snap-on company and @ Anheuser-Busch we had calibration testers in the shop comparing it to the Snap-on brands was like identical twins in build, function, and calibration.
We work with lots of precision high speed bearings and more and management wanted us all to have our own to aid in them maintaining their integrity.
When he seen the Snap-on sticker shock across 75 technicians research was done for an alternative. The lead came from the Snap-on vendor. So we all got a set of them and a calibration tester was placed in the instrumentation shop.
We have machines that put out 2,150 cans a minute.
I have a CDI model 2503MFRMH. They are a Snap-on company and @ Anheuser-Busch we had calibration testers in the shop comparing it to the Snap-on brands was like identical twins in build, function, and calibration.
We work with lots of precision high speed bearings and more and management wanted us all to have our own to aid in them maintaining their integrity.
When he seen the Snap-on sticker shock across 75 technicians research was done for an alternative. The lead came from the Snap-on vendor. So we all got a set of them and a calibration tester was placed in the instrumentation shop.
We have machines that put out 2,150 cans a minute.
#6
#7
I have found, however, that as the van has gotten older, it will not hold the original setting and I have to go back a couple of days later to retighten. My guess is that the studs have become stretched over time due to grease monkeys hammering them with an impact gun rather than using a torque wrench or torque stick.
I know a local shop here that will consistently use 120 ft. lbs. on those studs using a proper torque wrench in the process. He says he doesn't have to worry about nuts loosening that way. I guess he isn't worried about about the studs stretching and yielding either. To explain my point, here's a Chart showing proof load versus yield strength versus tensile strenth for various fasteners: http://www.americanfastener.com/tech...ings_steel.asp
Once in the yield stage, things can happen during tightening, including stretching and breakage.
Note: The Owner Manual doesn't distinguish between rim material types (normal steel or cast) for the torque spec.
Last edited by TJeepman; 03-31-2012 at 05:05 PM.
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#8
Heh! I hope you guys made a profit. I was the day shift can line mechanical tech. I remember the early setup. And the nice little flashlights you gave us!
I was the one who finally got us on track to getting the cans out of the closer with relative consistent spacing. Sure made your life easier.