The van runs, air conditioning and radio works
Took out the cluster and soldered the main connector pins.
Already disconnected the battery, IOD fuse reset, did the trip and reset and rest button reset attempts.
Have the 3 large bolts out of the fuse block and the 2 sheet metal screws for the BCM off on the right side but there is supposed to be one on the left and can't find it so I can remove the BCM.


Any hints or pics???

 

I found the screw and got the BCM out. I checked a 330 ohm resistor that a remanufacturing tech said to look at and it was ok.


How do dealers or auto electric mechanics check to see if BCM or cluster is bad or both???

 

OK, did some more reading on forums and saw how FCM wire connections can ding the headlights and wipers.

 

No FCM on your 3rd generation van.

Did the gauges sweep when you did the self test? Both high and low beams dead?

How dealers check? They connect a $1500+ DRBIII scanner and test the system.

What's your model year?

 

1998 Caravan
Cheapest 3 dr 2.4 engine.


Thanks for the reply

I didn't see the guages sweep.
There is 12 volts to the pink wire on the masin connector to the cluster.

Didn't check low and hi beams

Dealer wants $109 for inital check which is reasonable.. I just don't want them swapping modules as a guess until they fix it and find it is just a corroded wire terminal.

 

No FCM? What is that big aluminum module to the right of my fuse block thtas is next to the battery??

 

OK, I see on a visual that it is the TCM.

I am an electronic tech ..for 40 years... Can I isolate to cluster or BCM and see what is dead? Do I need a Dodge manual or is wiring diagram enough? I have my own O scope and DVM.

 

The good book says to change the instrument cluster if the gauges don't react on self test. Course you and I are going to check power and ground first. You've got the B+ power at the pink wire pin 2. Do you have it at the ignition on source red/white wire pin 11? Is the ground good at the black/lt green wire pin 7?

Reason I ask about high and low beams is high beams don't use the BCM and that nasty CCD data bus. It's a simple switch, relay, ground circuit. If it's just dead low beams then it could get ugly.

Isolate cluster/BCM? A dealership uses a high dollar scanner. Without it it would take some digging to find specific internal circuit outputs etc and I've never seen any of that on the net. If you had a good van to compare outputs it would make it easier but that probably isn't possible. That said, you have the equipment and experience. Maybe you can.

This does sound like a potential CCD data bus problem. I've never dealt with it but I have read it works off a +/- 2.5 volt power source from the BCM. Typical fixes are the cluster connector solder joints on the circuit board (sounds like you're done there) and repairing a melted HVAC control panel connector. Both can kill the cluster.

Do you need wire diagrams? I've got them in spades. I just need an email address to send them to. Use a PM.

 

OK,


thanks for the diagrams.
Bright beams work
Pin 7 and 11 OK on connector. goes to ground and 12 VDC with key on.
AC connector looks good, not burnt or plastic melted.


I am getting close to getting a BCM


Not $549 retail..I see new MOPAR for $374 but would like in $250 range and I am concerned with what keeps mileage BCM or cluster. I see people who get used BCM's and their mileage ties to used BCM not cluster.


I want to see if a Dodge dealer will accept a MOPAR OEM BCM and do this right

 

Took it to the dealer . BCM replaced. I told them about the lower online cost of a new BCM and they gave me 15% off on the whole job. The tech seemed to knock loose the flasher unit relay module on the fuse block so only the right directional worked when I got it back and they charged me $160 to just put in the BCM and didn't put any of my dash pieces back in so I feel I got overcharged for labor..I will ask about this charge before I fill out their email review