Not shifting into high gear, & battery goes dead (randomly)
#1
03-29-2012, 02:42 PM
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Not shifting into high gear, & battery goes dead (randomly)
Hey all- I'm new here. I'd like to drive my magnum until it dies, so I figured I may as well register since I'll probably need advice in the future too.
History-
I bought this 2006 Magnum in January. It has a 2.7L engine, and 64,000 miles when I got it (67K now). It was involved in a crash on the passenger side front quarter, and was rebuilt. It had several electrical issues because some of the wires got pinched and were not replaced, which I knew about. So I had the local dealer completely replace the engine wiring harnesses, ABS control module, and also the forward control module.
Issues-
Sometimes when driving, it will not shift into high gear. The shift lever is not stuck or anything, and it shifts normally when starting out, but then won't go into the last gear even if I run it over 3000 RPM just to get up to 60 mph. Usually, if I pull over & shut the car off, and restart it, this will correct the issue. (Just shifting it into park will not cure it- I have to shut the car off completely to reset it.)
It did this before the repairs too, and I was hoping the new ABS control module would fix it, but I guess not.
The other day I got into it to go home after work, and the battery was completely dead. I had to charge it to get it started, and it's been fine since. This is another issue that was a real problem before I had all the repairs done- eventually I could not leave the car parked for over 4 or 6 hours without the battery going completely dead, but it seems to charge fine again when driving. I was hoping this would be corrected when we replaced all the pinched wires, but I guess not.
The check engine light comes on, and throws a code that it's not getting info from the cam sensor. The cam sensor was already replaced, and I knew there was a bad wire going to the main computer. I was hoping this would be corrected when all the wires were replaced, but it's not. The mechanic said he even ran a wire direct to the main computer for it, and wondered if the computer itself was going bad.
I don't know if all of these issues are related or not. So I'm hoping to get some insight from you folks.
I also discovered after I had all the repairs done, the rear wiper doesn't work, when it worked fine before. Not sure about that one- I took a look at the fuses and didn't see any that were burnt out, and am not sure what to check next.
History-
I bought this 2006 Magnum in January. It has a 2.7L engine, and 64,000 miles when I got it (67K now). It was involved in a crash on the passenger side front quarter, and was rebuilt. It had several electrical issues because some of the wires got pinched and were not replaced, which I knew about. So I had the local dealer completely replace the engine wiring harnesses, ABS control module, and also the forward control module.
Issues-
Sometimes when driving, it will not shift into high gear. The shift lever is not stuck or anything, and it shifts normally when starting out, but then won't go into the last gear even if I run it over 3000 RPM just to get up to 60 mph. Usually, if I pull over & shut the car off, and restart it, this will correct the issue. (Just shifting it into park will not cure it- I have to shut the car off completely to reset it.)
It did this before the repairs too, and I was hoping the new ABS control module would fix it, but I guess not.
The other day I got into it to go home after work, and the battery was completely dead. I had to charge it to get it started, and it's been fine since. This is another issue that was a real problem before I had all the repairs done- eventually I could not leave the car parked for over 4 or 6 hours without the battery going completely dead, but it seems to charge fine again when driving. I was hoping this would be corrected when we replaced all the pinched wires, but I guess not.
The check engine light comes on, and throws a code that it's not getting info from the cam sensor. The cam sensor was already replaced, and I knew there was a bad wire going to the main computer. I was hoping this would be corrected when all the wires were replaced, but it's not. The mechanic said he even ran a wire direct to the main computer for it, and wondered if the computer itself was going bad.
I don't know if all of these issues are related or not. So I'm hoping to get some insight from you folks.
I also discovered after I had all the repairs done, the rear wiper doesn't work, when it worked fine before. Not sure about that one- I took a look at the fuses and didn't see any that were burnt out, and am not sure what to check next.
#2
03-29-2012, 02:56 PM
Champion
Hey all- I'm new here. I'd like to drive my magnum until it dies, so I figured I may as well register since I'll probably need advice in the future too.
History-
I bought this 2006 Magnum in January. It has a 2.7L engine, and 64,000 miles when I got it (67K now). It was involved in a crash on the passenger side front quarter, and was rebuilt. It had several electrical issues because some of the wires got pinched and were not replaced, which I knew about. So I had the local dealer completely replace the engine wiring harnesses, ABS control module, and also the forward control module.
Issues-
Sometimes when driving, it will not shift into high gear. The shift lever is not stuck or anything, and it shifts normally when starting out, but then won't go into the last gear even if I run it over 3000 RPM just to get up to 60 mph. Usually, if I pull over & shut the car off, and restart it, this will correct the issue. (Just shifting it into park will not cure it- I have to shut the car off completely to reset it.)
It did this before the repairs too, and I was hoping the new ABS control module would fix it, but I guess not.
The other day I got into it to go home after work, and the battery was completely dead. I had to charge it to get it started, and it's been fine since. This is another issue that was a real problem before I had all the repairs done- eventually I could not leave the car parked for over 4 or 6 hours without the battery going completely dead, but it seems to charge fine again when driving. I was hoping this would be corrected when we replaced all the pinched wires, but I guess not.
The check engine light comes on, and throws a code that it's not getting info from the cam sensor. The cam sensor was already replaced, and I knew there was a bad wire going to the main computer. I was hoping this would be corrected when all the wires were replaced, but it's not. The mechanic said he even ran a wire direct to the main computer for it, and wondered if the computer itself was going bad.
I don't know if all of these issues are related or not. So I'm hoping to get some insight from you folks.
I also discovered after I had all the repairs done, the rear wiper doesn't work, when it worked fine before. Not sure about that one- I took a look at the fuses and didn't see any that were burnt out, and am not sure what to check next.
History-
I bought this 2006 Magnum in January. It has a 2.7L engine, and 64,000 miles when I got it (67K now). It was involved in a crash on the passenger side front quarter, and was rebuilt. It had several electrical issues because some of the wires got pinched and were not replaced, which I knew about. So I had the local dealer completely replace the engine wiring harnesses, ABS control module, and also the forward control module.
Issues-
Sometimes when driving, it will not shift into high gear. The shift lever is not stuck or anything, and it shifts normally when starting out, but then won't go into the last gear even if I run it over 3000 RPM just to get up to 60 mph. Usually, if I pull over & shut the car off, and restart it, this will correct the issue. (Just shifting it into park will not cure it- I have to shut the car off completely to reset it.)
It did this before the repairs too, and I was hoping the new ABS control module would fix it, but I guess not.
The other day I got into it to go home after work, and the battery was completely dead. I had to charge it to get it started, and it's been fine since. This is another issue that was a real problem before I had all the repairs done- eventually I could not leave the car parked for over 4 or 6 hours without the battery going completely dead, but it seems to charge fine again when driving. I was hoping this would be corrected when we replaced all the pinched wires, but I guess not.
The check engine light comes on, and throws a code that it's not getting info from the cam sensor. The cam sensor was already replaced, and I knew there was a bad wire going to the main computer. I was hoping this would be corrected when all the wires were replaced, but it's not. The mechanic said he even ran a wire direct to the main computer for it, and wondered if the computer itself was going bad.
I don't know if all of these issues are related or not. So I'm hoping to get some insight from you folks.
I also discovered after I had all the repairs done, the rear wiper doesn't work, when it worked fine before. Not sure about that one- I took a look at the fuses and didn't see any that were burnt out, and am not sure what to check next.
A couple of questions. Do you have a power sunroof? Is the code for the cam sensor P0340 or P0344?
#3
03-29-2012, 03:11 PM
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#4
03-29-2012, 03:40 PM
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This is the only service bulletin I could find on the cam sensor issue.
NUMBER: 18-015-09
GROUP: Vehicle Performance
DATE: May 9, 2009
SUBJECT:
Flash: MIL Illumination Due To Diagnostic Trouble Code P0340 Or P0344
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) with new software.
MODELS:
2002 - 2003 DN Durango
2002 - 2004 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/LHS/New Yorker /300M
2005 - 2006 (LX) 300/Charger/Magnum
2005 - 2006 (LE) 300C/300C Touring
2004 - 2006 (DR) Ram Truck
2004 (AN) Dakota
2005 - 2006 (ND) Dakota
2005 - 2006 (JR) Sebring Sedan & Convertible/Stratus Sedan
2006 (PT) Chrysler PT Cruiser
2005 - 2006 (TJ) Wrangler
2005 - 2006 (TJ) Wrangler (International)
NUMBER: 18-015-09
GROUP: Vehicle Performance
DATE: May 9, 2009
NOTE: This bulletin applies to:
· DR vehicles equipped with a 3.7L/4.7L/5.7L engine (sales code EKG, EVA, EVD,
EZA or EZB)
· 2002 LH vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.5L engine (sales code EER, EES, EGC,
EGG, EGK or EGJ)
· 2003 and 2004 LH vehicles equipped with a 2.7L engine (sales code EER)
· LX/LE vehicles equipped with a 2.7L/3.5L or 5.7L engine (sales code EER, EGG or
EZB)
· JR vehicles equipped with a 2.7L engine (sales code EEE or EER)
· TJ vehicles equipped with a 4.0L engine (sales code ERH)
· AN vehicles equipped with a 3.7L or 4.7L engine (sales code EKG or EVA)
· ND vehicles equipped with a 3.7L or 4.7L engine (sales code EKG, EVA or EVC)
· PT vehicles equipped with a 2.4L engine (sales code EDZ)
· DN vehicles equipped with a 4.7L engine (sales code EVA)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The software contains the following improvements for all customers:
· A MIL illumination for P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 1
· A MIL illumination for P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent - Bank 1
Sensor 1
#5
05-01-2012, 01:00 PM
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I'm still having the issue with it not shifting into high gear, almost every day. Unfortunately I have not had the funds to get it looked at again by a dealership, but hopefully by summer I'll be caught up on my bills.
Having said that, I'm trying to decide whether I should take it back to the same dealer who did all the work I mentioned in my first post, since they are more familiar with the car's history. Or, do you guys think it would be better to take it to a different local dealership just to get a fresh set of eyes working on the problem?
Having said that, I'm trying to decide whether I should take it back to the same dealer who did all the work I mentioned in my first post, since they are more familiar with the car's history. Or, do you guys think it would be better to take it to a different local dealership just to get a fresh set of eyes working on the problem?
#6
05-01-2012, 01:10 PM
Champion
I'm still having the issue with it not shifting into high gear, almost every day. Unfortunately I have not had the funds to get it looked at again by a dealership, but hopefully by summer I'll be caught up on my bills.
Having said that, I'm trying to decide whether I should take it back to the same dealer who did all the work I mentioned in my first post, since they are more familiar with the car's history. Or, do you guys think it would be better to take it to a different local dealership just to get a fresh set of eyes working on the problem?
Having said that, I'm trying to decide whether I should take it back to the same dealer who did all the work I mentioned in my first post, since they are more familiar with the car's history. Or, do you guys think it would be better to take it to a different local dealership just to get a fresh set of eyes working on the problem?
If you have another dealer in your area that you could take it to I would recommend you do that. If it was my vehicle I would try a different dealer just to get a second opinion.
#7
07-13-2012, 10:42 AM
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Just thought I'd post the latest updates to my saga.
Since my last post, the Electronic Throttle Control light on the dashboard would also come on now and then. It was not blinking. Whenever that light would come on, the engine temp gauge would also go dead. If I restarted the engine, this would reset things & correct the problem.
I took my Magnum to the other local dealership as suggested. They told me it was throwing so many codes, they didn't want to mess with it. They recommended I take it back to the original place that did all the previous work, since they already knew the car's history.
So I did take it back to the original place. They said I need a new EGR valve, which might be causing some of the other problems. They said there was also a code having to do with low voltage at one of the sensors/modules on the transmission, which could be related to the shifting issue- it may be "locking it out" from being able to shift into overdrive. They tested the battery & said it's pretty low on cold cranking amps (around 400 CCA instead of 650+), so it may not have enough power reserve to keep the car running normally. I may have to replace the battery, or at least try giving it a good trickle charge overnight & see if the shifting issues return.
They're going to replace the EGR valve next week and I guess we'll see what happens from there. I'll try to keep ya posted, in case anyone else searching here is having similar problems.
Since my last post, the Electronic Throttle Control light on the dashboard would also come on now and then. It was not blinking. Whenever that light would come on, the engine temp gauge would also go dead. If I restarted the engine, this would reset things & correct the problem.
I took my Magnum to the other local dealership as suggested. They told me it was throwing so many codes, they didn't want to mess with it. They recommended I take it back to the original place that did all the previous work, since they already knew the car's history.
So I did take it back to the original place. They said I need a new EGR valve, which might be causing some of the other problems. They said there was also a code having to do with low voltage at one of the sensors/modules on the transmission, which could be related to the shifting issue- it may be "locking it out" from being able to shift into overdrive. They tested the battery & said it's pretty low on cold cranking amps (around 400 CCA instead of 650+), so it may not have enough power reserve to keep the car running normally. I may have to replace the battery, or at least try giving it a good trickle charge overnight & see if the shifting issues return.
They're going to replace the EGR valve next week and I guess we'll see what happens from there. I'll try to keep ya posted, in case anyone else searching here is having similar problems.
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#8
07-17-2012, 05:00 PM
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I got my car back from the dealership- they went ahead and replaced the EGR valve, which hopefully cleared up some of the problems. As of right now, the check engine light is not on anymore, and everything seems fine.
Regarding the issue with the cam sensor:
The mechanic told me he had to clear out the codes and do a "re-learn" protocol or something, to get the cam sensor and crank position sensor to work together properly again. He said the car ran really rough & wouldn't shift right before he did this procedure.
He told me this involved getting the car up to 55-60 mph, and shifting it into nuetral (coasting), and then going through several other steps to calibrate things, to make the computer relearn how things are supposed to work. He didn't go into details, but said the procedure is not difficult; you just have to go down the list of steps. Does anyone here know what this is, or have some sort of service bulletin on how to perform these steps myself if the issue returns?
By the way- no joy on the issues with the rear wiper and washers. The mechanic said, "well, I can check the fuses if you wanna pay for another half hour of labor..." Since they're the ones that screwed 'em up in the first place, I felt like putting my boot up his ***, but figured I'd better not **** these guys off since they seem to be my only option for repairs in the future. Grrrrr....
Regarding the issue with the cam sensor:
The mechanic told me he had to clear out the codes and do a "re-learn" protocol or something, to get the cam sensor and crank position sensor to work together properly again. He said the car ran really rough & wouldn't shift right before he did this procedure.
He told me this involved getting the car up to 55-60 mph, and shifting it into nuetral (coasting), and then going through several other steps to calibrate things, to make the computer relearn how things are supposed to work. He didn't go into details, but said the procedure is not difficult; you just have to go down the list of steps. Does anyone here know what this is, or have some sort of service bulletin on how to perform these steps myself if the issue returns?
By the way- no joy on the issues with the rear wiper and washers. The mechanic said, "well, I can check the fuses if you wanna pay for another half hour of labor..." Since they're the ones that screwed 'em up in the first place, I felt like putting my boot up his ***, but figured I'd better not **** these guys off since they seem to be my only option for repairs in the future. Grrrrr....
#9
07-18-2012, 09:12 AM
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back to square one
Well, on my drive in to work this morning, the check engine light and the electronic throttle control light came back on. They've had this vehicle 5 different times now trying to fix this stupid cam sensor issue (I'm going to assume that's why the check engine light came back on today). They said the firmware on all the modules is up to date and everything.
Anybody got any other ideas?
I was messing with things last night and at least got the rear wiper working myself- the connectors to the switch or one of the fuses must have been loose.
Anybody got any other ideas?
I was messing with things last night and at least got the rear wiper working myself- the connectors to the switch or one of the fuses must have been loose.
#10
07-18-2012, 05:09 PM
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In case anyone is still following along....
I did some research online this morning- I googled for the actual code the cam sensor was throwing, which is P0344 (intermittent). I found pages of Dodge owners who were getting this same code, and a common theme throughout was that you can't use any aftermarket sensors in Chrysler vehicles; you have to use OEM sensors or they just won't work.
So, sure enough, I looked at the sensor in my car, and it was an AC Delco. I brought it back up to the dealership this afternoon, and the mechanic there replaced the cam position sensor with an original Chrysler part (about $60 for the sensor). It took literally 3 minutes to swap out the sensor, and then he took it out for a drive to "relearn" everything again. As of right now, the check engine light is off. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it stays that way.
He still thinks the ETC light is due to a bad battery; he said there were also codes in the computer about a low battery, but it just wasn't low enough yet to actually illuminate the battery warning light on the dashboard. Guess I'll have to replace that next...
By the way, the mechanic did also elaborate more on this "relearning" process. He said you have to get out on the highway and get the car up to 70mph, and then let it coast down to 40mph, then back to 70 & coast down to 40 again at least 4 times. (He said he did mine 6 times just to make sure it took.) I was mistaken earlier though; you don't actually have to shift into neutral to coast- just take your foot off the gas.
I did some research online this morning- I googled for the actual code the cam sensor was throwing, which is P0344 (intermittent). I found pages of Dodge owners who were getting this same code, and a common theme throughout was that you can't use any aftermarket sensors in Chrysler vehicles; you have to use OEM sensors or they just won't work.
So, sure enough, I looked at the sensor in my car, and it was an AC Delco. I brought it back up to the dealership this afternoon, and the mechanic there replaced the cam position sensor with an original Chrysler part (about $60 for the sensor). It took literally 3 minutes to swap out the sensor, and then he took it out for a drive to "relearn" everything again. As of right now, the check engine light is off. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it stays that way.
He still thinks the ETC light is due to a bad battery; he said there were also codes in the computer about a low battery, but it just wasn't low enough yet to actually illuminate the battery warning light on the dashboard. Guess I'll have to replace that next...
By the way, the mechanic did also elaborate more on this "relearning" process. He said you have to get out on the highway and get the car up to 70mph, and then let it coast down to 40mph, then back to 70 & coast down to 40 again at least 4 times. (He said he did mine 6 times just to make sure it took.) I was mistaken earlier though; you don't actually have to shift into neutral to coast- just take your foot off the gas.