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Dodge Neon 1996, heater is on but no heat

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Old 11-22-2010, 03:18 AM
bornok bornok is offline
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Default Dodge Neon 1996, heater is on but no heat

Kindly advice what to do with the 1996 model dodge neon, when i open my heater and the temperature is already high, the heater is not enough heat distribution. Its already winter here in canada and need so much the heater. what could be the possible cause and what to fix?
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:43 PM
bg1995redneon bg1995redneon is offline
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Kindly advice what to do with the 1996 model dodge neon, when i open my heater and the temperature is already high, the heater is not enough heat distribution. Its already winter here in canada and need so much the heater. what could be the possible cause and what to fix?
Either it is a plugged heater core and you can try to backflush it by disconnecting both hoses at the firewall and use a hose to inject water into both the left and right to unblock it (may work if the blockage is not too bad, otherwise you will have to replace it), OR, your temp selector switch to open the valve allowing the hot water to circulate through the core is busted and not allowing the hot water to flow through the core (or partially opening allowing only a little bit to flow).
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:59 PM
ALLDATAdiyINFO ALLDATAdiyINFO is offline
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Is air blowing from the vents?
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:15 AM
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are the heater hoses from engine to firewall hot to touch?
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:29 PM
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are the heater hoses from engine to firewall hot to touch?
Yes the hoses are hot
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:30 PM
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Is air blowing from the vents?
Yes, the air is blowing but its cold.
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:32 PM
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Is there any idea how much is he labor for replacement of heater core?
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:28 AM
bg1995redneon bg1995redneon is offline
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I do not have a Dodge Service Labor chart to go by, and some mechanics charge by the job, not per hour.

I would estimate that it will cost you about 3 hours of labor at a shop (at whatever rate per hour they charge) + parts (core is $72 at advanceauto.com).

As I said originally, you may have a case where your heat selector switch is malfunctioning. If it is not fully opening the valve holding back the hot water from even getting into the core, then that is your problem.

Have you tried my suggestion of back flushing the core? Disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and alternate back and forth between the two ports in forcing water thru the core - use a hose with as much pressure as it will put out. DO NOT hook up a high pressure sprayer unless you want to risk rupturing it! if it is not too badly plugged, you will see glop and/or goo come out in fits and bits and pieces. If you cannot get water to force its way through, then you can replace it. If water starts flowing freely from one port , switch to that port and see if it comes out freely from the other way. If it does, your core is clear. All of this costs you nothing but some time and may save you some serious cha-ching.....

Last edited by bg1995redneon; 12-03-2010 at 04:06 PM..
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:32 PM
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Im doing a heater core in a sunfire tomorrow The book says 5 hours.
I'm sure the neons labour is similar.

Damn GM junk I should be charging more
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:32 PM
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