Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > Dodge/Ram Diesel
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Dodge/Ram Diesel Discussions on all generations of Cummins Diesel powered Rams plus the new Eco Diesel

DIY Ball Joint Replacement

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-12-2009, 12:01 PM
steve05ram360 steve05ram360 is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 Ram CTD 4x4, 2000 audi TTQ
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 12,142
Default DIY Ball Joint Replacement

Work in progress


DIY Ball Joint swap

Truck: 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

Ball Joints:
Lowers: Moog K7467
Uppers: Carli heavy duty's

Tools:
1 11/16" socket
Impact Wrench
Torque Wrench to 250 ftlbs
Various sockets in 1/2 drive
Pickle fork
Ball Joint press with adapter kit
**** 1/2" to 1" pipe coupler *****
5mm allen socket
stubby 1/2 drive extension
Snap ring pliers
Shop manual

edit: ball joint adapter kit found at harbor freight tools... p/n 46389-4VGA

Advisory: Reference your shop manual for ALL torque specs

Jack up the wheel and support with jack stand.
Note: Make sure the side you are working on is at least 3" higher than the other side. this will allow you to remove the axle without any loss of fluid from the diff.

Remove the wheel

Disconnect steering linkage from steering knuckle

Click the image to open in full size.


Remove Brake Caliper and using a high tech support device (aka metal hanger) tie it off so that it does not stress the brake lines and is out of the way. (18mm)

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the Brake Line support bracket (13mm)

Click the image to open in full size.


Remove the brake rotor

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the cotter pin from axle nut Using the 1 11/16" socket & impact wrench, remove the axle nut

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Remove the ABS sensor using 5mm allen socket and route wiring & sensor so they are out of harms way.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Loosen all 4 hub retaining bolts, back them all out about 1/4"

Place socket with extention on bolt as indicated in picture and start engine.
rotate steering wheel so that the socket & extension make contact with the axle yolk and apply more pressure (gently) with steering wheel to break free the hub off the axle.

Do this for all 4 bolts. And be gentle with it.

Back out the 4 bolts another 1/4~1/2" and repeat until the hub is free enough for you to slide it off the axle

Once the hub is free you should be able to pull it off the axle.

Remove the dust shield when removing the hub

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Loosen but do not remove the upper Ball Joint nut
Back out nut until it is near the end of the ball joint shaft

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the lower ball joint nut
Back out nut until it is near the end of the ball joint shaft

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Using a pickle fork, break free both upper and lower ball joints

Click the image to open in full size.

Once both are free, remove both nuts and remove the steering knuckle

Click the image to open in full size.

Using a large screwdriver, pop out the axle by applying outward pressure on the axle yolk where it sits next to the diff housing. It will pop out easily with a little pressure.

<get pic from other side & put here>

Click the image to open in full size.


Using the snap ring plyers, remover the snap ring fromt he lower ball joint

Click the image to open in full size.


Using ball joint press, remove the upper ball joint. it comes out from the top and you will need the pipe coupler to help press it out all the way. when I did mine the adapters I had for

the press did not have the reach needed to push the joint out all the way.

<get pic from other side & put here>

Using ball joint press remove the lower ball joint. It comes out from the bottom. As you can see in my pic, I had to do it without the piece for the top as the reciever tube I had was not

shallow enough to allow me to use it.

Click the image to open in full size.

Lower ball joint comparison. my lower joint was incredibly loose. I was told that the lowers rarely go bad but after removing this one, I question that.

Click the image to open in full size.


Upper ball joint comparison. my upper joint had shaft play up & down and side to side.

Click the image to open in full size.

Using ball joint press, isntall lower ball joint and ensure zerk fitting is pointing towards the front of the truck, pics show it clocked incorrectly, I removed it and reset it's position.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Install Snap Ring on lower ball joint.

Carli Ball joint kit

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Install the upper ball joint

Click the image to open in full size.

be prepared to bend your press... I bent 2 of them as they were cheepies. You can rent them from Autozone (west coast) and it is the same press so expect it to bend.

Click the image to open in full size.


Install the axle back into the diff housing and use caution to not nic the seal during the insertion. It sits way back there by the gears. you will need to rotate the axle to line up the

splines prior to pushing it all the way in. It does not take alot of force to push in.

Click the image to open in full size.

Install dust boot onto lower ball joint

Install steering knuckle back onto upper & lower ball joints. Reference manual for torque specs.
My '05 called for 70 ftlbs upper & 140-160 ft lbs lower

Install cotter pin into lower ball joint. you may need to tighten nut more to have access to the hole (never loosen to gain access to this hole for the cotter pin).

Install hub bolts back thru steering knuckle and install dust shield.

Install hub back on to axle and ensure ABS sensor mounting location is on the top.

Tighten hub bolts and torque to spec (149 ftlbs for my truck).

Install axle nut and torque to 132 ft lbs. Reference manual for torque specs.

Rotate hub several times (5~10x) to reseat the bearing.

Retorque axle nut to spec (263 ftlbs for my truck). Reference manual for torque specs.

Install hub retaining bolts and torque to spec. Reference manual for torque specs.

Install ABS Sensor back into hub

Click the image to open in full size.

Install brake line bracket

Click the image to open in full size.


Install rotor and put 1 lug nut on to secure rotor while installing brake caliper

Install brake caliper and torque bolts to spec

Remove lug nut and mount wheel

Remove jackstand

Jack up other side of axle and check for leaks coming from the axle you just worked on.

If no leaks present, your done, time for a beer.


Click the image to open in full size.




more info from another thread...
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...nced-help.html
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!

Last edited by steve05ram360; 01-28-2011 at 12:07 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-12-2009, 04:41 PM
kelly1 kelly1 is offline
Registered User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Thumbs up

Fantastic job ,looks like alot of work.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-12-2009, 05:29 PM
steve05ram360 steve05ram360 is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 Ram CTD 4x4, 2000 audi TTQ
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 12,142
Default

thanks, welcome to DF...

it is a lot of work but worth it IMO...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-13-2009, 11:46 AM
jh jh is offline
Rookie
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 60
Default

Another great one Steve. I'm putting this one next to the write up you did about flushing the power steering system. Thanks.
__________________
2003 graphite quad cab 4X4, nv5600, stock (except muffler & silencer ring gone), Line-X boxliner, 285 Toyo AT's.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-13-2009, 12:55 PM
steve05ram360 steve05ram360 is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 Ram CTD 4x4, 2000 audi TTQ
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 12,142
Default

thanks... no blood spilled on this one (yet). still working on the passenger side. bent the other press to the point where it is useless and will not put enough force on the lower ball joint to pop it out. Jason (owner of Dieselnutmotorsports) is going to let me "press" this thing back into shape. He's offered to lend me his ball joint press (which I might take him up on) if I feel I need it. I plan on re-inforcing this one and will see how that works.

My wife is dropping off the other axle to get the u-joint replaced on it this morning. Hopefully I'll be able to get there before they close (long drive) and have it on hand if I find the motivation to work on it tonight. time will tell...
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:30 PM
canadian_diesel1964 canadian_diesel1964 is offline
Registered User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge 2500 4x4
Location: Belmont, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 28
Default

HI Steve, I found your write up through Google and had to join...it was awesome as I am doing this job this week...my only question is how come you have someone else put in your axle u joints..that to me seems much easier than what you have done here....just curious
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-19-2009, 04:44 PM
amercier amercier is offline
Registered User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Vehicle: '03, RAM 2500 4x4 Cummins Diesel
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 11
Default

Hi Steve,
Your step by step is great. I recently failed inspection on my 03 RAM 2500 4x4 for balljoints (upper and lower RH) and am looking into replacing myself to save on labor costs. Your post should help me a great deal.

Questions:
Why both Moog and Carli? Cost or is there some other reason?

Do you need impact wrench to remove the axle or does it just make it easier? (I don't have compressor/impact wrench)



Thanks
Al
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-19-2009, 09:30 PM
steve05ram360 steve05ram360 is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 Ram CTD 4x4, 2000 audi TTQ
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 12,142
Default

hey guys... welcome to DF...

I used an impact wrench cause I have it and it'll take just about anything off and has made my life so much easier since getting it.

On the selection... the moogs, upper & lower were about the same cost, the Carli's however are supposed to be bullet proof. Not liking to do things twice, I'd rather spend the extra bux for the carli's & hope I never have to do the uppers again. the way they are built, I kinda doubt I will. the lowers are said to rarely wear out, however mine seemed to be shot IMO.

On the axle ujoints... I've done them in the past and could have done them myself, however decided to let someone else do them. When it comes time on the driveshafts, it'll go to the same shop.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-20-2009, 11:05 AM
canadian_diesel1964 canadian_diesel1964 is offline
Registered User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge 2500 4x4
Location: Belmont, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 28
Default

cool Steve, mine are also totally worn out...both uppers and lowers...I couldnt afford the carlis but went with ac delco up top and moogs on the bottom...and acdelco axle u joints..they seem to make a quality part...thanx for the great write up..I just covered my drivers side with penetrating oil where it needed to be and will get at this on thursday...again Thank you
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-20-2009, 11:39 AM
steve05ram360 steve05ram360 is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 Ram CTD 4x4, 2000 audi TTQ
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 12,142
Default

My best suggestion to you is to find a US made ball joint press... it'll save you lots of headaches. On the hub... mine popped out easily using the method I did described. you just need to be gentle with it.
Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2009, 11:39 AM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
01, 05, ball, carli, dakota, dodge, joint, joints, lower, mopar, ram, socket, specs, torque, upper

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:33 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails