Here's a wall of text, but please stick with me

When I picked up my 5.9L 94 B350 campervan two winters ago, 1st thing I did was ask the Dodge dealer service center to drop the tranny pan and replace the filter/fluid. When I picked it up, they 'misheard' me and did a full tranny flush. Concerned at first (since I didnt know the history, I was worried about dislodging, etc with a flush), the service advisor assured me the transmission was a Mopar rebuilt that 'looked new' so shouldn't worry about a flush. They claimed to adjust the bands and replace the filter but I'm generally skeptical at these shops.

OK, so fast forward to last fall...
I decide to be proactive and replace the rusty steel cooler lines, replace the rubber cooler lines of unknown age going to/from the radiator/external cooler, and add a Wix inline tranny filter. After a few long weekend trips later shortly thereafter without issues, it then sat more or less for the remainder of winter.

Then about two weeks ago I left it for a weekend ski trip and things started going wrong. About 15 highway miles into the trip the transmission started slipping...and got bad quick. I quickly pulled over and discovered a cheap clamp slipped (dammit) off the hose leading to the tranny cooler and was leaking fluid. I had 3 quarts of ATF4+ on hand and got to the auto parts store to get more. I don't know what temps it got to but I was literally in a freezing snow storm and I'd pulled over pretty quickly so I think it didnt overheat/burn up. All said I added about 6 or 7 qrts of ATF4+ and seemed to be at the right level on my way back (checking in hot/neutral) and basically shifted Ok. When I got home, I checked/replaced some clamps and added an aftermarket tranny temp gauge with a sensor at the output/hot tranny cooler line.

Finally, the problem(s)???
I finally got to take it out last weekend for weekend trip. The tranny stayed cool for the 150 or so miles there, mostly highway (eventually maxing around 150F at the gauge, air temp 30s). I suppose it wasn't shifting as smooth as last Fall but not too bad. However, as the weekend went on, the shifting (or hesitation/lack of upshifting predominately in 2nd/3rd) clunked in gears usually at high rpms got progressively worse. On a few occasions, it would shift fairly smooth. On the drive home (with a bit higher air temps), it was at 190F - 220F at the gauge, varying with traffic/grade/etc. At one point I pulled over and got various readings with my infrared thermometer on the tranny housing itself with readings at the bell nearing 230F with somewhat lower readings elsewhere (although I haven't verified the accuracy of the thermeter itself yet). The tranny simply did not want to shift up through 2nd/3rd. I don't have a tachometer, but it was certainly in the very high RPMs before violently clunking up a gear (often drawn out 2nd gear and then 3rd/4th rapidly). I eased into the accelarator, hoping to coax a shift but it didnt seem to help all that much. I definitely wasnt going to smash the pedal. Sometimes, I'm not sure OD was even kicking in when it otherwise normally would. Eventually I'd get in OD for the highway portions of the trip and it'd stay in gear. I was genuinely concerned it might self destruct before I made it home when dealing with lower gears. It seemed pretty bad although on a positive note I didnt notice any slipping through this trip.

So now what?
Hoping I'm not doomed to a new/rebuild transmission. What can/should I check?
- I guess I could start with readjusting bands. ?
- solenoids/governor pressure dodaddy?
- Variable Speed Sensor -VSS? (speed gauge at dash works fine although not sure if it matters or not)
- Trottle Valve (TV) Cable adjustment ?

I've never worked on a transmission so please pretend I wear a helmet and drool on myself. Fluid looks red/clean but its substantially fresh now. I will note that the 1st swipe of the dipstick after driving for a bit reveals what seems to be some charcoal tint on the clean rag, along with the red/fresh fluid at the OK level marking. Redipping/checking the fluid don't have show any subsequent gray/charcoal tint.

Which model? I believe its a 46RH
This plate was on the passenger side of transmission...
Part # R2118328AC
Serial # JBPC00421
Build Date 145.04

This was punched into the driver side housing above the pan...
PK5211917329066457

BTW, there arent/havent been any check engine lights present. Ill try the key dance and post any fault codes, if any, tonight.
I haven't detected any subsequent tranny fluid leaks however theres quite a bit of fluid to clean up from the initial clamp slipping off before I can reliablly trace any fluid. No additional weight/loads were added to the van between the trips mentioned above.

I truly appreciate any feedback. I'm hoping I can address this before making things worse. Thanks!!!

 

As far as I know the transmission in a 94 B350 should be a 46RH. The transmission should be listed on the vehicle equipment sticker and/or the body code plate on the left inner fender.

Automatic shifting on **RH transmissions is simple hydraulic control vs the **RE which is controlled by the PCM via the governor solenoid, governor transducer and throttle position cable. The **RH has none of those, so if an **RH transmission is not shifting properly its a mechanical issue. I'd check the kickdown linkage or cable and kickdown return spring and then adjust the bands.

 

Oops, I meant 46RH (overdrive A518), thanks for pointing that out.


Ok, from you explanation, I take it hydraulic controlled trans doesn't have a governor solenoid/transducer.

The cable you mention, are you referring to the Throttle Valve (TV) cable?

I'm lost on checking kickdown linkage and/or kickdown spring. Am I simply looking for binding linkage, missing spring?

Adjusting the TV cable and bands seem somewhat straightforward.

 

You don't have a throttle valve position cable on a non-electronic transmission, you have a kickdown cable. However this cable is apparently labeled as a TV cable: hopefully you have a factory service manual because info found online generally refers to adjusting TV position cable on an electronic transmission.

If the kickdown is sticking or not properly adjusted it can cause late/hard shifts or prevent transmission from ever shifting into 3rd gear.

 

Well the tranny died in the worst of circumstances...

At any rate, I'm leaning towards a Mopar rebuilt simply because it offers the best warranty of 3 year 100,000, parts/labor covered at any Chrysler/Dodge dealership.

One of the local dealerships gave me fair/average deal on the Mopar rebuilt but Labor quote has me wondering... $1000-1200. When I asked how many hours, he said 6-7. Then I later asked the parts person and was told $98 an hour.???? Doesn't seem to add up, even with fluids/shop materials.

 

Labor is billed based on the labor rate book and not actual hours worked. Doing it this way prevents a shop from taking 20 hours to do things like a brake job that should only take 2.

 

I hear ya, he said book rate was 6-7.

Anyway, I called back and voice may concerns and after speaking with a manager and some relooking at the book time, i got a quote for half that amount (less fluids).

So I'm looking at close to $3k for a mopar rebuild.

Found lots of options out there that address some weak factory design/components or cheaper but the warranty can't be beat.

 

I have an '01 and last fall opted for a rebuilt tranny from Jasper out of Indiana. I also have a 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty. I had 3 shops that are Jasper certified give me quotes and I picked one shop based on my "interview" of them. I put down a downpayment (basically the cost of the unit, which the shop did not demand, but saved me money on a markup on the tranny) and the Jasper rebuilt was delivered the next day to the Cincinnati area shop. I also supplied ATF+4 tranny fluid to the installer at a lower cost to me than what was going to be supplied. The following day I picked up my van and drove away. About 15K miles later and I am a happy camper. My cost was about $2600 for a 46RE installed... and that included installing a new rad that I supplied. I got the new rad because Jasper insisted on a flushing operation of my old rad that cost an additional $45, but I avoided that charge by just putting in a new rad, which needed replaced anyway after 13 years.
I think the RH unit should be less expensive.
http://www.jasperengines.com/transmissions.php

 

Thanks for the pointing out another option.

I'm not sure the dealership will accept fluid I purchased. I'll give a shot. I'm installing a new aux oil cooler myself (leaving the caps on) before its towed to the dealership. I'll flush the oil cooler in the radiator myself beforehand as well.

Aside from wide spectrum of opinions of Jasper quality, the warranty has me concerned.

Looking at the literature specific to transmissions theres lots of room for Jasper to wiggle out of acccepted 'vendor's for repairs (must be pre-approved), labor rates covered (All labor expense for field repairs, removal and reinstallation shall be determined from hours listed in the current ALL DATA/MOTORS time guide or pre-approved time at the factory approved rate), and if necessary you're stuck with shipping costs to Jasper's factory. You have to pay costs up front and then get reimbursed, possibly finding yourself in a fight over reimbursement. Also, unlesss you purchase a premium service plan, it looks like fluids aren't included.

The Mopar warranty (page 6) is covered at any chrysler/jeep/dodge/fiat dealership, all parts/labor covred, no deductible, $75 towing allowance.

 

Why?
FWIW I had a real good tranny shop do my 32RH - installed all the updates and fixes - and got a new TC for $900. I has been 2 years now and it is still strong and great.


His warranty was 2 years. If it was the 42RH it have been $1600.


But, if you feel it is worth it - OK