park neutral safety switch
#1
park neutral safety switch
Hello hope everyone is having a great day.
I have a 96 Dodge B2500 cargo van. It shows a OBDII code for the park neutral safety switch. Okay i replaced the NSS switch on the transmission. didn't fix it.
My diagnoses:
Ohm test on all NSS 3 wires = test good
Omh test from fuse box under hood = test good
12 volt test light to check the following:
solenoid i put test light on the solenoid wire on top of starter = no light
checked fuse box under hood.
The #1 terminal is your signal from the ignition switch start circuit. It should light your grounded test light/ voltmeter when the key is turned to the crank position. This will happen regardless of shifter position.The opposite terminal
(2) is the neutral safety switch circuit and should show a ground when in park or neutral. Otherwise, it's an open circuit.
Terminal 3 is your battery feed to the relay, which comes from Fuse 5 (20 amp) from the same PDC location.
Last is the starter relay output terminal, #5. If you jumper 3 to 5, it should engage the starter regardless of neutral safety position... it's hot wired.There's going to be something wrong with one of these locations. If it's lack of power from the switch, check your switch connector for pull-off. The act of tilting the column might have broken the clasp that keeps the connector in place, allowing it to rock off just a bit.
All tested good except for the # 1 yellow wire in fuse box test light did not light.
so I drop Ignition switch cover and with a test light checked the 7 wires
IGNITION SWITCH
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
2 A21 12DB IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START/RUN)
3 G9 22GY/BK RED*BRAKE*WARNING LAMP DRIVER (START)
4 A2 12PK/BK FUSED B(+)
5 A22 12BK/OR IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
6 A31 12BK/WT IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (ACC/RUN)
7 A1 12RD FUSED B(+)
Grab a test light and make sure pin 4 and 7 have 12v all the time, then test 2-5-6 for 12v with key on..
Test result: wires 2-7 tested good
Except yellow # 1 wire
Question does the yellow # 1 wire from ignition suppose to light up when probed with test light?? and did dodge place a fuse between the IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START) and fuse box??
Im thinking that my ignition switch assembly IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START) is bad.
Any idea please help to fix this issue is greatly appreciated.
Rodney
I have a 96 Dodge B2500 cargo van. It shows a OBDII code for the park neutral safety switch. Okay i replaced the NSS switch on the transmission. didn't fix it.
My diagnoses:
Ohm test on all NSS 3 wires = test good
Omh test from fuse box under hood = test good
12 volt test light to check the following:
solenoid i put test light on the solenoid wire on top of starter = no light
checked fuse box under hood.
The #1 terminal is your signal from the ignition switch start circuit. It should light your grounded test light/ voltmeter when the key is turned to the crank position. This will happen regardless of shifter position.The opposite terminal
(2) is the neutral safety switch circuit and should show a ground when in park or neutral. Otherwise, it's an open circuit.
Terminal 3 is your battery feed to the relay, which comes from Fuse 5 (20 amp) from the same PDC location.
Last is the starter relay output terminal, #5. If you jumper 3 to 5, it should engage the starter regardless of neutral safety position... it's hot wired.There's going to be something wrong with one of these locations. If it's lack of power from the switch, check your switch connector for pull-off. The act of tilting the column might have broken the clasp that keeps the connector in place, allowing it to rock off just a bit.
All tested good except for the # 1 yellow wire in fuse box test light did not light.
so I drop Ignition switch cover and with a test light checked the 7 wires
IGNITION SWITCH
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
2 A21 12DB IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START/RUN)
3 G9 22GY/BK RED*BRAKE*WARNING LAMP DRIVER (START)
4 A2 12PK/BK FUSED B(+)
5 A22 12BK/OR IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
6 A31 12BK/WT IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (ACC/RUN)
7 A1 12RD FUSED B(+)
Grab a test light and make sure pin 4 and 7 have 12v all the time, then test 2-5-6 for 12v with key on..
Test result: wires 2-7 tested good
Except yellow # 1 wire
Question does the yellow # 1 wire from ignition suppose to light up when probed with test light?? and did dodge place a fuse between the IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START) and fuse box??
Im thinking that my ignition switch assembly IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START) is bad.
Any idea please help to fix this issue is greatly appreciated.
Rodney
#2
Yes, it should light up when you turn the switch to START.
No, there is no fuse between the ignition switch output and the starter relay.
Is that wire yellow with no stripe? This says it's dark blue with a yellow stripe:
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
What was the code for the Neutral Safety Switch?
No, there is no fuse between the ignition switch output and the starter relay.
Is that wire yellow with no stripe? This says it's dark blue with a yellow stripe:
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
What was the code for the Neutral Safety Switch?
Last edited by Friar Tuck; 05-31-2016 at 09:47 PM.
#3
#4
Wire Color
This is from the Ignition Switch diagram in your first post. And by the way, it is the same in my '96 service manual.
Be sure you turn the ignition switch to START to test this wire for voltage. You will get nothing in RUN. All tested good except for the # 1 yellow wire in fuse box test light did not light. This must also be tested with the ignition switch turned to START. It is the same wire.
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START):
A41 is the circuit number
18 is the wire gauge
db/yl is the wire color at the ignition switch DARK BLUE/WITH A YELLOW STRIPE. What is the color at pin 1 of your switch?
The wire changes at the BYPASS JUMPER (CONNECTOR 132):
Circuit number changes to T141
Wire gauge changes to 14
Color changes to YELLOW WITH A RED STRIPE (this should be the color at the relay)
Be sure you turn the ignition switch to START to test this wire for voltage. You will get nothing in RUN. All tested good except for the # 1 yellow wire in fuse box test light did not light. This must also be tested with the ignition switch turned to START. It is the same wire.
1 A41 18DB/YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START):
A41 is the circuit number
18 is the wire gauge
db/yl is the wire color at the ignition switch DARK BLUE/WITH A YELLOW STRIPE. What is the color at pin 1 of your switch?
The wire changes at the BYPASS JUMPER (CONNECTOR 132):
Circuit number changes to T141
Wire gauge changes to 14
Color changes to YELLOW WITH A RED STRIPE (this should be the color at the relay)
Last edited by Friar Tuck; 05-31-2016 at 09:52 PM.
#5
Sorry man i should have been more specific in my earlier post when i was diagnosing wire's.
With ignition on:
Yes i tested the fuse box #1 y wire with ignition on. test light= negative
I also tested the the Pin #1 yellow wire on the ignition switch connector.
Test light = negative
I forgot the code # but it said Park neutral safety switch. I retest it and let you know .
However i did find a fuse that was for the backup lights, the fuse box is located in the glove compartment. Someone put a 7.5 amp fuse instead of the correct 10 amp fuse in that circuit. The 7.5 amp was blown.
With ignition on:
Yes i tested the fuse box #1 y wire with ignition on. test light= negative
I also tested the the Pin #1 yellow wire on the ignition switch connector.
Test light = negative
I forgot the code # but it said Park neutral safety switch. I retest it and let you know .
However i did find a fuse that was for the backup lights, the fuse box is located in the glove compartment. Someone put a 7.5 amp fuse instead of the correct 10 amp fuse in that circuit. The 7.5 amp was blown.
#6
Hold on i goofed i previous post.
Yes both yellow wire's did light test light when i turn ignition to start.
If the NSS Feamale switch is connected backwards to male NSS on trans, would it cause it to blow my fuse.
Is there a way to tell say a mark on the switch that define's pin 1 so that you connect it correctly?
I have a daigram is this correct with your book
thank you for your insight.
I check # 6 fuse and post again. Take care
Yes both yellow wire's did light test light when i turn ignition to start.
If the NSS Feamale switch is connected backwards to male NSS on trans, would it cause it to blow my fuse.
Is there a way to tell say a mark on the switch that define's pin 1 so that you connect it correctly?
I have a daigram is this correct with your book
thank you for your insight.
I check # 6 fuse and post again. Take care
#7
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#9
Hold on i goofed i previous post.
Yes both yellow wire's did light test light when i turn ignition to start.
If the NSS Feamale switch is connected backwards to male NSS on trans, would it cause it to blow my fuse.
Is there a way to tell say a mark on the switch that define's pin 1 so that you connect it correctly?
I have a daigram is this correct with your book
thank you for your insight.
I check # 6 fuse and post again. Take care
Yes both yellow wire's did light test light when i turn ignition to start.
If the NSS Feamale switch is connected backwards to male NSS on trans, would it cause it to blow my fuse.
Is there a way to tell say a mark on the switch that define's pin 1 so that you connect it correctly?
I have a daigram is this correct with your book
thank you for your insight.
I check # 6 fuse and post again. Take care
This diagram shows the same harness but the terminal didegnstions are way different. I understood that putting a probe on the SWITCH housing and the middle terminal should show continuity when switch depressed. The above diagram shows it should be middle terminal and an outer terminal that are actually the switch.
can someone please clarify for me?
Thanks ahead.
DazSpaz (Itchy Bruno)