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Can a defective battery effect controls?

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Old 10-03-2016, 06:29 AM
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Default Can a defective battery effect controls?

Greetings Ya'll,

Can a battery that is weak, & that quickly gives up it's charge, act as a "Resistor" that will effect the emissions/ fuel operation of the LA 318 motor?

 
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:29 AM
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Probably.
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:18 AM
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ecm controlled vehicles have a sense wire that measures system voltage. If the system voltage is low the ecm has a strategy to increase increase injector pulse width. This is more dependant on the system voltage not necessarily the battery itself.
Not sure if it would delay running certain emission monitors.

If you know the battery is bad, replace it. I would be more concerned with my alternator cooking from the system constantly trying to charge a bad battery.

Do you have a specific concern that you are trying to address; a monitor that won't complete? If so which monitor?
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by primem
ecm controlled vehicles have a sense wire that measures system voltage. If the system voltage is low the ecm has a strategy to increase increase injector pulse width. This is more dependant on the system voltage not necessarily the battery itself.
Not sure if it would delay running certain emission monitors.

If you know the battery is bad, replace it. I would be more concerned with my alternator cooking from the system constantly trying to charge a bad battery.

Do you have a specific concern that you are trying to address; a monitor that won't complete? If so which monitor?
agreed ^^^
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:53 PM
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Thank you jkeaton, primem, & Funair, for replying. I'm asking about the battery cuz' of all of the problems that I've had trying to get my Work Van to run correctly. I posted about it herein the group, recently with the topic being "Possessed Work Van". As far as the battery being bad, I only confirmed it when I made this post today, because while trying to do work on the Van, & run my business (HVAC/ Electrical/ Refrigeration) at the same time, it is possible that a door did not get fully shut, during the day as materials & tools were transferred to another vehicle, which I thought initially is why the battery was dead. "If" the battery would act as a resistor, even though it is in a Parallel circuit to the controls, then "if" it is similiar to a Refrig/ Heat pump defrost board, a Blower Control board for a Condensing Gas Furnace, or a Pump/ limit Relay Board for a boiler, .... then even a 5% drop in the Board's DC Control voltage could make whatever unit it is "Act as if it were Possessed", which my Van has been doing, with the many issues such as Hi/ Low idle, Hesitation, & occasional back fire through the throttle body, all at 25 MPH to 45MPH, yet it disappears at 55MPH. SMH I've already called the parts house that I deal with & talked to a Buddy who I've trusted for years with advice on parts etc., for my trucks & vans, over the years, & he told me that the battery is under warranty. "ecm controlled vehicles have a sense wire that measures system voltage. If the system voltage is low the ecm has a strategy", ..... If I'm correct, My Alternator is producing 14.7 Volts, which if I am understanding correctly that is sufficient to maintain a charge on the battery & meet the voltage requirements of the Van. When I get done with my work tomorrow, I plan to check the voltages & OHMs at the IAC, TPS, & the two O2 sensors.
 
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:24 PM
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typically, even with a bad battery, the charging system can supply the voltage requirements of the vehicle. The problem that would be seen most is during starting, when the alternator supplies nothing and the battery has its biggest current demand.
I have seen batteries with bad cells suck all the power from a booster pack or jumper vehicle to prevent cranking. Once the vehicle is started, you probably won't see a problem.
with that said, always replace a known bad part.
 
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Old 10-07-2016, 06:43 AM
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Primem, Thank you for replying. Yeah, ... The battery has to be replaced. I jumped the Van, & started it easily, & then I let it run for about ten minutes, & checked the input to the Battery (14.8 volts). I then got tied up in my work, & then went back to the Van, thinking that I'd be able to check the voltage to the controls etc., & determine HOPEFULLY, what was causing the Idle problems, etc. All I got was that pitiful "Death chatter" from the starter, yet I had full interior lights & radio, as well as "Gauges". I had work to do at the Van, so I turned on the radio to see how Hellary & Trumpie were planning to "Save America", ... After about ten minutes, the Radio audio began to "Pulse", ... WTH? I got in the Van, & saw the LED indicator blinking on & off, in conjunction with the Audio "pulsing" on & off. After about a minute of this, the Radio quit, so I turned the key off, & then back on to Accessory,... Then The Clock RAPIDLY began to "Pulse" on & off, & then died completely. Is this a "sign" of other problems with my Van, for I thought that the power supply to the radio would be direct feed, & constant, without going through a 1/2 wave rectifier, a timer, or some form of Oscillator?
 
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:34 PM
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You have to get a new battery to see what your issue is.

I will say 14.8 is too much. It should never go over 14.6 and typically should be around 14.2.
At 14.7+ you are destroying the battery by a process called 'gassing it'.
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:30 AM
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Funair02, "gassing it"? Because of an additional .5 volts, above normal output of the Alternator, being applied when the motor is running? As in causing it to break down the chemical make-up of the Battery? Also, if the battery is being over supplied with voltage, then I also have an Alternator problem, correct?
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:48 AM
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just don't run an AGM batteryi and you will be fine. Find a Lead acid battery the charging system regulator was designed for.
 


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