Rough Idle - No Power - Whistling
#11
Honestly, I was thinking it might be the EGR valve and was going to test it this week. I just wanted a second opinion, though. Is that test 100% accurate, though? I forgot to mention the following in my last post...
After replacing the spark plug wires, my car won't go over 4000 rpms while driving, as if it is limited somehow. I also meant to mention that I almost always have to give my car gas to start it. What do you think?
After replacing the spark plug wires, my car won't go over 4000 rpms while driving, as if it is limited somehow. I also meant to mention that I almost always have to give my car gas to start it. What do you think?
#12
#13
Honestly, I was thinking it might be the EGR valve and was going to test it this week. I just wanted a second opinion, though. Is that test 100% accurate, though? I forgot to mention the following in my last post...
After replacing the spark plug wires, my car won't go over 4000 rpms while driving, as if it is limited somehow. I also meant to mention that I almost always have to push the gas pedal (give it gas) to start it. What do you think?
After replacing the spark plug wires, my car won't go over 4000 rpms while driving, as if it is limited somehow. I also meant to mention that I almost always have to push the gas pedal (give it gas) to start it. What do you think?
#14
I'm not sure if this is what happened to you but it has happened to me. I had a loss of power and stalling issues. got the needed info here from forums and the experts. I blocked of the egr valave and it ran great. started running bad again and low idle. figured it had to be the iac, wrong replaced it and same stuff. took the intake manifold off and while cleaning it removed the egr valve with coke can bypass and noticed the coke can had holes in it those holes were like bypassing the bypass, I then doubled up on the thickness by using a monster energy can folded in two that seemed to do the trick. after you replace your intake try looking at yuor bypass and see if it held up. p.s i ran straight pipe long time ago hate converters!!!
#16
Thanks for the information.
I used something to block off the EGR valve. My stalling issues went away and the 4k rpm limiting was gone. I also stopped having trouble starting my car. However, when my car is in park now, rpms hover around 1300 rpms. Also, when decellerating, rpms drop VERY slowly. Is this normal for blocking off the EGR valve? Please let me know your thoughts.
Also, after a day of having the EGR valve blocked off, the blocker was destroyed while I was driving. My stalling issues then returned. Do you think the "blocker" got knocked into the manifold intake? I certainly hope not!
Thanks.
I used something to block off the EGR valve. My stalling issues went away and the 4k rpm limiting was gone. I also stopped having trouble starting my car. However, when my car is in park now, rpms hover around 1300 rpms. Also, when decellerating, rpms drop VERY slowly. Is this normal for blocking off the EGR valve? Please let me know your thoughts.
Also, after a day of having the EGR valve blocked off, the blocker was destroyed while I was driving. My stalling issues then returned. Do you think the "blocker" got knocked into the manifold intake? I certainly hope not!
Thanks.
#17
#18
Thanks.
I heard it disappear when I floored it. It whistled and got louder and louder. Then all a sudden, my stalling issues came back, lol.
Do you not have any guesses for answers to the questions I asked?
If a car doesn't have its main catalytic converter (still has two precats), do you think the car will have enough back pressure to allow the EGR valve to function correctly? Do you think it would function at 100%?
If full efficiency can be achieved, why would you block off the EGR valve when you could buy a new one and save on gas (other than for a cleaner engine)?
I heard it disappear when I floored it. It whistled and got louder and louder. Then all a sudden, my stalling issues came back, lol.
Do you not have any guesses for answers to the questions I asked?
If a car doesn't have its main catalytic converter (still has two precats), do you think the car will have enough back pressure to allow the EGR valve to function correctly? Do you think it would function at 100%?
If full efficiency can be achieved, why would you block off the EGR valve when you could buy a new one and save on gas (other than for a cleaner engine)?
Last edited by DarkVenge; 12-09-2011 at 11:54 PM.
#19
#20
sorry bout the delay it's been a long week. I noticed that prior to the egr bypass u replaced the iac. was that with a new one from the parts store or outa the junk yard? if so u may have inadvertantly overcorrected for the egr valve with the new iac. When I replaced mine it ran better but still had to use 2 feet to drive. after finding out my egr bypass had failed and repaired it my rpm's were super high till I put the original iac in (nothing wrong with it) I haven't seen a tps replacement in your list of things, if after u try the other things that may be ur coulprit.