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remove the bezel from around the headlight. will require opening hood.. 2 screws on top and to underneith between bumper and bezel..
there is a picture here but it dont show the bottom screws ..
On my 1996, the two upper phillips screws are in plain sight after opening the hood. However, the two lower screws were accessed behind the bumper, could not even see them in front, no space at all between the bezel and the bumper. Needed a 1/4" ratchet with a phillips attachment. One screw was glued in or stripped or something, had to ratchet it out all the way. The screws are inserted in plastic, one would not think there would have been such a battle. Even after removing the four screws, the bezel could not be pulled out. I had to remove four screws from the grill, and pull the corner of the grill out and away from the passenger side bezel (where I was working) to free the bezel which shared a tab and screw with the grille. Pain in the butt, just to change a turn signal lamp. Been working on vehicles since the 1970's and never saw anything like this before. It's like doing brain surgery to remove someone's appendix.
Changed the bulb but the parking light still did not work. Tried the turn signal, which worked, but the new "Valucraft" 3157 bulb spewed out a milky white liquid inside the bulb. I wonder what that is? First time turn signal tested, bulb spewed out white milky substance.
Last edited by Dibbons; Aug 3, 2020 at 01:48 PM.
Reason: add photo
Like I said awhile back in a previous thread, when I turn the parking lights on, the left green arrow on the dash has been going on. Hard to track down the problem. The wiring for left front turn signal lamp socket goes almost immediately into the wrapped wiring harness.
Take the front bulb out, is the light in the dash still on? If it is, the problem is in the rear. If you have a trailer harness on it, first place I would check is where the trailer harness hits the rear main harness.
Being aware that the front corner lights ARE wig wag and reversed - any light that's dim/off besides the front corner lights is the one giving you fits.
It has a bad ground, so when the parking or head lights are on, current flows through the turn signal circuit. That's usually the front one though; the rear lights tend to be isolated due to the MFS having them switched to the brake light circuit.
Posts number six and seven are excellent ideas, I should have thought of them before. However, I had already sanded down the contacts (with emory paper) of the left front turn signal lamp socket before I read the post suggestions. It seems after having sanded the contacts from their almost black appearance to shiny gold, it would appear upon turning on the parking lights that the left green arrow has now retired its bothering me (at least for now). I will be keeping a close eye on it to see if all is well or if it will return to haunt me again. Thanks for the help.
