Los control, You are Awesome, I've heard the blurbs against soldering a bunch of times. From it MELTS,(Too small of wires ? He was also saying his wires run hot... hi-wattage sound system) To the getting brittle and cracking. If the solder joint is a cold solder, it can give you some weird readings, same with a loose crimp. I have a couple of those Rachet crimpers, they're supposed to work better(No Over- Crimping), when I try to use them according to the color,(blue is # 14, pink is #18, yellow is #12 ish, red is #8 to #4, my alternator charge wire is a #4 welding cable), it always doesn't crimp enough. And the spade crimper I use sometimes pierces the plastic insulation, the liquid tape can work for small patching.

The pin crimpers, are rachet crimpers, which seem to work more better. Maybe its the four pins.
I have a large cable crimper(Battery Crimps), I probably over-crimp with those.

I moved the relative neat wire bundles from in front of my Dak intake and made a rats nest on the firewall, I'll have to shorten them when I decide whichever Bundling technique I use. There were 4 wires that I missed identifying, maybe the solenoids and switches on the tranny.
Too bad there isnt a breakdown of where and which systems the wire colors could be hooked to. I found the splices that were buried in the looms, except the one down behind the drivers side head.

I picked up some stainless tubing from Amazon, to use in place of the plastic/nylon vacuum tubing, 1/8in, 4mm, 1/4in, 7mm, the metric, ones were supposed to be a little larger than the SAE tubing. To fit the stretched rubber hoses. I'm also using silcone hoses, it cant be used for petroleum products, cause it makes them turn into goo. From that Amazing place. One of the problems with stainless is it can be harder than bundy tubing, to bend and bundy tubing can split if you over-flare it, Well, Sh&t, I'm pretty sure any tubing will split if its overworked. I.E. work hardening?
I finally got a video camera from Amazon, now I'm figuring out how to hook it to my computer, so I can record some "This is how I did it" flicks, and post them on u-tiube. At least that's what I'm trying to do. Since we cant put Flics on the forum. I'll have to post some Pictures of my work, maybe this weekend.
Here is some of my crimping tools.

Cable Crimpers, Battery Terminals

This a Tool-Aid multi-Jaw

#12 to #8 solid pin Deutsch type connector

I'm kinda of a tool *****. In the Marines, I was a 6332, Electrical Systems Tech, on A-4s, Hienmen's Hotrod, which some Navy pukes, called the 'chickin hawk'. Now its refrenced to AV-8s, Harriers.

The red hoses will make it run more better and the rats nest. The blue hoses are from the purge valve. The passeger wires are all alone on the passenger side of the engine.

All the wires that go down over the trans are now on the firewall, Not on the engine. The passenger side wires are the injectors, the temp gage, the alternator wires and the charge air temperature. The drivers side wires are the A/C clutch and hi-press switch. the injectors and throttle body sensors. Still need to trim out the extra wiring and bundle them. Some of the wire insulation is brittle, so some patch jobs are in order. I'm planning on moving the small vacuum lines over to the passenger side and plug the other ports, except for the brake booster.

 

Spaghetti dinner.

 

LOL ... you got this
We are in two different worlds .... here is the wiring for my Dodge truck ... some assembly required



Here is my big spaghetti mess



One thing I did different though ... I bought a marine fuse box. ... Boats are typically fiberglass so grounds are a issue.


The bundle of wires coming into the bottom are all grounds ... while tail lights are grounded when mounted, I soldered a wire to the housing and ran the ground back to the fuse box.
Same thing with every electrical item on the truck ... all grounded right here in the fuse box ... twice the wire, twice the effort ... is it worth it? I dunno .... I do not expect any future grounding issues though.

 

One of the issues with wiring is trying to NOT to start a ground loop. Try not to daisy chain grounds or power leads. Sometimes you can make it work. A ground loop is a differance in potential between differant body parts or engine, alternator, distributor, etc.. Checked with a DVOM, check for resistance between body parts. Or check for a voltage drop between connections. You can sometimes see this voltage between a battery post and the clamp. 1 probe on the + post, the other on the clamp or wire or any other part except on a ground. It should read Zero volts. If it shows a voltage, even .01 volts, you have a not so good of a connection. Maybe not enough to show up as an immediate major problem.

Eventually, not so bad connections can get worse, especially on the battery.

On the negitive post, I think, it will show a negitive voltage either between the post and the clamp or any grounds. Or in the coolant, if it shows voltage, it's bad because of causing electrolysis. My coolant shows .3 volts, I need to ground my radiator. I have a sacrificial anode in my top rraditor hose. I got it from Flexalite.
It should show Zero volts or battery voltage, depending on where you're checking. You can check the grounds with a self-powered test light for voltage drops. I'm a little rusty on doing that part.
This is where having one of those Power Probe types of testers can really save you some time. They can check for power and the ground circuit at the lamp socket.

Suppose you diasy chain the grounds(it happens), and each ground drops a .5 vdc, with 4 bad grounds you've dropped 2volts, now maybe your lights are seeing 10 volts instead of 12.

On one vehicle I worked on, the battery was grounded to the alternator, which was grounded to the engine, which was grounded to the frame, which was grounded to the cab. None of the rest of the body was grounded to any other except thru the bolts. Most of the lights worked only part-time. Sometimes a tail light or a headlight, signal light or another light wouldn't work, sometimes they all worked. The owner, said she had it in 3 differant mechanic shops and none could figure it out. Evidently, they only tried to find something wrong when everything worked. I did what you did, I ran a ground wire to every light and back to the battery.
Amazon sells cables with 2 wires together in a sheath. A positive and a negative? Or multiple wires glued together.

2-#8 wires, Power-Flex Marine Boat Cable
Make both positive and negative wires the same size. Sometimes 2/4/6 smaller wires running parallel are more flexible than 1 large wire, as long as the total amperage carrying capacity is the same or greater. The power company does it all the time. OEM companies do the same.
I hope this helps someone. Instead of just confusing me.

 

All good points. Reminds me I need to finish my wiring. I have my fuse box grounded to the body, I still have 2 large ground straps to install engine > frame > frame > body.