Hi all,

The internal seals in my automatic transmission need to be replaced which requires complete removal of the tranny. I was given a quote for $600 by my local tranny guy and that's just for removal. So, in order to save some cash I want to remove the tranny myself and then bring it in to the shop. The problem is, I've never done anything this ambitious before, and I've heard that dak transmissions are a pain to remove.

What kind of difficulty am I looking at here? What tools do I need? How do I support the engine and transmission once they are disconected? Any other tips/tricks are appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

need ur year/engine

Ya they are a pain to remove/installI just installed mine and it took me 2 days just to get it lined up rightbut thats because I just pissed with it the first day[:@]. Hard part is takin off all the engine to tranny brackets and keep all the bolts in order cause there is almost like a different bolt for all the holes except the engine to tranny bolts they are all the same size. you will also have to remove the crossmember below the tranny and depending on if u have 4x4 or not you can remove the transfer5 case to make it easier. as far as tools id say at least 2 jacks and just standard set of sockets and wrenchs. But this all depends on ur application if you have the same engine as I do

 

Sorry, it's a '94 3.9L 4x4. How difficult is it to get to the engine/tranny bolts? Will I need some kind of extension? Does anything need to be replaced before I reinstall the tranny? Thanks

 

Extension, no just a really long flexible arm that you don't mind getting greasy.
There are5 bolts up top that go from the tranny to the engine blocktheir a 9/16 i beileve I used a box end wrench to lossen them up. Then there are to 2 more bolts that go from the block to the tranny,they arelike a 1/2 inch longer than the other 5,they are located on the corners of the block, probley got crawl underneath the truck to see them.

here a photo of wut I mean.

 

Thanks for the pic. So the hardest part is disconnecting the tranny from the engine? Would I be able to remove the engine and tranny as one part through the engine compartment? I was thinking about doing the 318 swap anyway. Also do I have to remove any exhaust components before I remove the tranny? Thanks again. BTW if it makes a difference, my truck has an extended cab.

 

Oops there is 4 bolts not 5 my bad the top one doesn't connect. EHhh me myself personally its easier to take out the engine first. I took out a 360 and trannyout as 1 piece outof a 72 fury 3 andit was pretty hard but it had been sitting for like 20 years. But take in to consideration since yours is a 4x4 you also have the weight of the transfer case on there that would be one hell of a project to pull all that out as 1 piece. so I would just pull the engine then take the transfer case off then tranny. But if you are determined to do it all as 1 go for it just be prepared and have another set of eyes.And as far as the exhaust components you have to remove the exhaust manifolds to pull the engine and if do it as 1 piece you MAY be able to go over the Y pipe but idk it looks pretty tight so than of coarse u need to remove the Y pipe

 

Yea, I've heard that a Dakota 4WD transmission is one of the harder ones to r2.
You will need to disconnect the exhaust at the headers and make a cut somewheres after the Y-pipe. The reason is the exhaust pipe that runs along the crossmember, below the transmission bellhousing, sits too far up and will block the bellhousing when you try to remove it.
Also, to access one of the bolt-to-trans bolts, you will need to remove the oil filter.
Uhh... you might as well look into replacing your u-joints while you have the driveshafts out. If yours are anything like mine, the caps for the u-joints will be rusted to the yoke/straps, and will have to destroy them anyways.
Hmm.. it's no walk in the park, but it's definitly do-able. I had a little help from a friend. I just raised the truck off the floor and set it on 4 jack stands. I also used a regular floor jack to support/remove the transmission. Although from what I hear, the transmission jacks would have been a lot more helpful.
You can do it, it just might take some time. You'll be happy you will have that $600 in your pocket from just the removal.

 

i have done alot of tranny swap and the dakota one is not that bad, it took me about 2 hrs to get it out and beside the truck by myself at the house, but mine is also a 2wd so it is probablt easier cuz i have less stuff to worry with, if you need to know anything about the 318 swap check out my post that i made, mabey it could be a sticky so you wont have to search for it(wink wink).

 

what is the best route to take when removing the 3.9, 4x4 transmission. im in a tight spot trying to replace the transmission.

 

personally if your not equipped with a few tools and some patience you may want to consider paying the $600. the worst of it in my experience has always been the bracket on the front axle. one key thing you really need is help and trust me you want someone who has a clue. your little cuz billy jo bob with the keg belly won't be much help. take care when going back in to get that bracket lined up aswell. the i do it at work is to cut the pipe and get a repair sleeve from a parts store. soke the down pipe bolts in wd40 or your choice of rust penetrating lube. get that out of the way then pull your d shafts out. this gives you room to get the starter out and pull your tc bolts out. then get that bracket while your at it. move back and unhook your links and d tube. leave the line (so you don't have to lay in a puddle of red super lube) pull your c member and support the trans. lower it a hair then pull the xfer. on a note i think the nuts for the xfer are 9/16. (i've done so many on diff makes and models some of the small details are blended) and it's not heavy but have a buddy help set it out (better safe than sorry). next get your b housing bolts. the four up top are 9/16 as someone else said. then pull your oil filter (save it though unless you want to do a lof while your at it) these two side bolts are 5/8 (16) although i have seen some of them with 19 it's really rare. after that it's just muscle and your home free. i can do it at work in around an hour.

as for tools i personally use a 40 inch 1/2 to 3/8 extension for the bell bolts. the xfer i usually use a wratchet wrench and have a stubby on hand (the top and top left sometimes are in a tight place thats easier when they are). most of the time your bolts will break loose and you can spin em off by hand.

other notes. always have a helper for the lifting. i've seen alott of guys (and had to drive an hour or so) with trannys laying on em. again safe is much better than sorry.
while your in there check your flywheel and rms. really not that bad to do after you do a few just hard if you have never done more a few. if you decide to tackle it be safe and good luck.