Shes alive
#1
Shes alive
I finally got the TBI unit back on the truck with new vacuum lines and a new map sensor, o-rings in the two injectors and new gaskets all the way around. I competely elliminated the choppiness when letting off the gas and it now runs much smoother. I think all this was the combination new wires, the 3923 plugs, new fuel filter and the complete take down and rebuild of the tbi unit, minus the TP sensor. Still have to get on that seal for the t case.
#3
I think i found out why its leaking theres like a coiled spring thing wrapped around the new seal and on my tcase its just hanging there. On the new seal its on the outside rim of were the shaft should go. Im glad it started on the first crank just had a little gas leak shut of fixed it and tried it again, no leak took it for a 8 mile trip no problems and I checked the codes and only got 12 and 55. I thought sense the sensors were unplugged since saturday or sunday it was a good idea to leave the battery unplugged until after I got everything back together. I hope all this that I done in the past few weeks get the MPG's up. I still have plans the drain both pumkins and replace with synthetics. What weight should I use? I got nutting but craftsman tools!!!!Dad had em for working on his 8 foot mower, changing blades etc.
Last edited by bigkat91; 02-03-2009 at 11:36 PM.
#4
I think i found out why its leaking theres like a coiled spring thing wrapped around the new seal and on my tcase its just hanging there. On the new seal its on the outside rim of were the shaft should go. Im glad it started on the first crank just had a little gas leak shut of fixed it and tried it again, no leak took it for a 8 mile trip no problems and I checked the codes and only got 12 and 55. I thought sense the sensors were unplugged since saturday or sunday it was a good idea to leave the battery unplugged until after I got everything back together. I hope all this that I done in the past few weeks get the MPG's up. I still have plans the drain both pumkins and replace with synthetics. What weight should I use? I got nutting but craftsman tools!!!!Dad had em for working on his 8 foot mower, changing blades etc.
#5
Accully if it is for the rear output shaf of the transfercase you dont need the torque wrench or a large socket. But large sockets would be good so you can slip it over the seal and hammer it in without damaging the seal. Just remove the drive shaft and your ready to remove the old seal.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; 02-04-2009 at 12:25 AM.
#6
Accully if it is for the rear output shaf of the transfercase you dont need the torque wrench or a large socket. But large sockets would be good so you can slip it over the seal and hammer it in without damaging the seal. Just remove the drive shaft and your ready to remove the old seal.
#7
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#8
Ya your right. I looked at the first post of another thread and he said rear seal. But later in that post he says front seal. Also I belive the large nut may be 33mm the front and rear drive diffs are as well as CV axles.
Its always best to be spacific in your questions, not everyone would be following your posts.
Its always best to be spacific in your questions, not everyone would be following your posts.
#10
I don't know about the nut on the transfer case, but if its the same size as the rear diff yoke nut its a 32 mm or 1-1/4 inch. I have that old 8-1/4 inch sitting in the garage and just went to check. Also, you'll want to tighten the nut down to 110 ft-lbs when your putting stuff back together.