Lifting/lowering rear without blocks
#1
03-06-2009, 11:25 AM
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Lifting/lowering rear without blocks
If this has been brought up before, I was unable to find it. If not, what do you Dakota experts think??
I've been looking at the rear suspension setups on the Dakotas and have come up with another idea for lifting/lowering the rear without adding blocks or adding/removing any leaves from the spring pack.
On the 4X2 Dak the rear spring hanger/shackle is mounted in what I call a NORMAL design, with the shackle pointing down, which puts the rear spring eye about 1 inch below the bottom of the frame.
On the 4X4's the shackle is mounted INVERTED, pointing up towards the bed, which puts the spring eye about 1 inch below the top of the frame.
If you swap a 4X4 rear spring hanger bracket with one for a 4X2 (and visa versa) it should give you 2 - 3 inches of lift/drop without blocks or add-a-leaves. Now before we get all outa shape I have a strong dislike of lifting/lowering a truck with blocks or adding/removing leaves.
MY CASE AGAINST LIFT/LOWERING BLOCKS
Yes, blocks are the fast easy way to lift/lower a truck but they have many draw backs. First, on 4X4's you get your tire clearance but don't really add any flex as the springs are still the same distance from the bump stops as before. On a 4X2 you have actually moved the spring closer to the ground. Second, blocks add lots of leverage to the axle, under hard acceleration the axle being so far away from the spring it wants to move horizontally which can cause the spring to deform into a S shape and can cause axle hop in a 4X2 and axle/spring wrap in a 4X4. Third, in my opinion it just looks stupid.
ADD/REMOVE LEAVES TO/FROM THE SPRING PACK
If you're lifting a truck a AAL isn't too bad of a way to go. It will give you tire clearance, and usually adds a little flex too but, also increases your spring rate resulting in a harsher ride.
Removing a leaf to lower a truck, not that great, it'll decrease the load you can carry, but give a softer ride, for a little while any way, and will lead to the springs eventually sagging.
WHY DO I WANT TO DO THIS:
That's simple, it keeps the stock spring rate, ride and handling isn't affected as it would be with blocks or AAL's.
THE HANGER SWAP
This swap really isn't all that hard to do, they've been doing one similar on older full size Dodges and Ramchargers for years and can be done with tools most of us should have in our garages.
What you need:
1 pair - 4X2 rear spring hangers (or 4X4 hangers if lowering a 4X2) from wrecking yard.
8 - 1/2-20X1 1/2" grade 8 bolts.
8 - 1/2-20 grade 8 self locking nuts.
16-SAE flat washers.
4 1/2" angle grinder.
Cutting torch or plasma cutter (not required but makes removing the rivets easier).
Common garage tools, socket set, wrenches.
1. Raise truck and support frame with jack stands, remove tires.
2. Place jack under axle and disassemble leaf spring from rear shackle, disassemble shackle from hanger bracket.
3. Cut rivets holding hanger bracket from frame (tail pipe, spare tire, ect may need to be removed to get to rivets).
4. Install new hanger brackets using 1/2" bolts.
5. Reinstall shackle and leaf spring.
6. Enjoy your newly lifted/lowered truck.
NOTES:
This would be a good time to replace the spring and shackle bushings.
You may need longer shocks on a 4X4, shorter on 4X2.
You may have to lengthen/shorten your drive shaft.
On 4X4's a 2 - 5 degree axle shim may be needed to correct drive shaft geometry.
I've been looking at the rear suspension setups on the Dakotas and have come up with another idea for lifting/lowering the rear without adding blocks or adding/removing any leaves from the spring pack.
On the 4X2 Dak the rear spring hanger/shackle is mounted in what I call a NORMAL design, with the shackle pointing down, which puts the rear spring eye about 1 inch below the bottom of the frame.
On the 4X4's the shackle is mounted INVERTED, pointing up towards the bed, which puts the spring eye about 1 inch below the top of the frame.
If you swap a 4X4 rear spring hanger bracket with one for a 4X2 (and visa versa) it should give you 2 - 3 inches of lift/drop without blocks or add-a-leaves. Now before we get all outa shape I have a strong dislike of lifting/lowering a truck with blocks or adding/removing leaves.
MY CASE AGAINST LIFT/LOWERING BLOCKS
Yes, blocks are the fast easy way to lift/lower a truck but they have many draw backs. First, on 4X4's you get your tire clearance but don't really add any flex as the springs are still the same distance from the bump stops as before. On a 4X2 you have actually moved the spring closer to the ground. Second, blocks add lots of leverage to the axle, under hard acceleration the axle being so far away from the spring it wants to move horizontally which can cause the spring to deform into a S shape and can cause axle hop in a 4X2 and axle/spring wrap in a 4X4. Third, in my opinion it just looks stupid.
ADD/REMOVE LEAVES TO/FROM THE SPRING PACK
If you're lifting a truck a AAL isn't too bad of a way to go. It will give you tire clearance, and usually adds a little flex too but, also increases your spring rate resulting in a harsher ride.
Removing a leaf to lower a truck, not that great, it'll decrease the load you can carry, but give a softer ride, for a little while any way, and will lead to the springs eventually sagging.
WHY DO I WANT TO DO THIS:
That's simple, it keeps the stock spring rate, ride and handling isn't affected as it would be with blocks or AAL's.
THE HANGER SWAP
This swap really isn't all that hard to do, they've been doing one similar on older full size Dodges and Ramchargers for years and can be done with tools most of us should have in our garages.
What you need:
1 pair - 4X2 rear spring hangers (or 4X4 hangers if lowering a 4X2) from wrecking yard.
8 - 1/2-20X1 1/2" grade 8 bolts.
8 - 1/2-20 grade 8 self locking nuts.
16-SAE flat washers.
4 1/2" angle grinder.
Cutting torch or plasma cutter (not required but makes removing the rivets easier).
Common garage tools, socket set, wrenches.
1. Raise truck and support frame with jack stands, remove tires.
2. Place jack under axle and disassemble leaf spring from rear shackle, disassemble shackle from hanger bracket.
3. Cut rivets holding hanger bracket from frame (tail pipe, spare tire, ect may need to be removed to get to rivets).
4. Install new hanger brackets using 1/2" bolts.
5. Reinstall shackle and leaf spring.
6. Enjoy your newly lifted/lowered truck.
NOTES:
This would be a good time to replace the spring and shackle bushings.
You may need longer shocks on a 4X4, shorter on 4X2.
You may have to lengthen/shorten your drive shaft.
On 4X4's a 2 - 5 degree axle shim may be needed to correct drive shaft geometry.
Last edited by stesul411; 03-06-2009 at 11:36 AM.
#2
03-06-2009, 03:33 PM
Hall Of Fame
Ya that is a good way! Most leaf spring trucks front and back do this trick. Reading this post was a little confusing at first. So I will post up 2 pics of the spring set up so others can see how they are set up. This sounds like it will give your around 2-3in lift. I call lift blocks cheater blocks! I will post this up in the FAQ2 under lift kits/ lower kits.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; 03-06-2009 at 08:58 PM.
#3
03-06-2009, 03:36 PM
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#4
05-27-2009, 06:15 PM
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#5
05-27-2009, 10:02 PM
Hall Of Fame
Yes you can do that. But the thing is the mounting holes wont line up and you will need to drill out 3 new holes. Vs just bolting in the new one. Also that will give you 2 more inches or so due to the hanger being higher some more than the other. So it would be good for 5in or so. But that may be to high because you can't match that with the front.
#7
05-28-2009, 01:20 AM
