I have come up with 2 different plans for the 360 I bought a couple months ago. My question is will a mopar performance computer have trouble running either....

Plan 1 (The cheaper and faster build)...

> 365 CI factory bottom end except 0.030 over Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons w/ all new bearings.
> Factory heads decked (cause the engine blew a head gasket)
> This cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=CCA-20-745-9 w/ compatible springs and factory valves
> Harland Sharp 1.7 pedestal mount roller rockers

Plan 2 (The expensive build that would take me a long time)...

> 408 CI with this bottom end: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...I&autoview=sku
> These heads: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=25495 (would put it at about 9.8:1 compression)
> Same cam and rocker arms as above

 

i would suggest a "tom fox" flash(im not sure where i was reading about that) if you dont get too wild or a stand alone like MS if you want total control and econimical, and unless you are planning on dragracing with slicks n bars you wont need forged rods. stock rods, cast crank, KB pistons, heads of your choice
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23242
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/mopar_kb_pistons.htm
get your bottom end for half price, maybe buy the M1 intake?

when you get the pistons/heads post pics. im not sure if you have built a motor or not, but i can tell you how to prep the pistons and combustion chambers to avoid hot spots. it will allow you to push the limits on pump gas way further than if you just bolt it together as it comes from the manufacturer. i kinda push the limits of my bike motor with nitrous on pump gas and high compression

 

I was thinking about getting the bottom end components seperately to avoid getting forged parts, but I could only find the crank and pistons. I can't find the connecting rods, cause I assume they would be different to compensate for the longer stroke. If I can find them I'll definately go with the 408.

*EDIT* I just found out the rods really are the same. Thanks! That will save me a ton of money.

 

The first set up stock MP computer can handle it. For the 408 it will be may not be as much top end power. I would suggest getting the handheld tuner/flasher that is listed in the FAQ2.

You shouldn't mill down the heads more than .030in And the block .030in. That is what I did and I had a tight fit on the intake bolts. I never calculated what that would put my compression ratio at. And stock heads are 64.5cc stock!

And you may want to read the current issue of MA Magazine. I finally got mine. TONS of info on aftermarket and stock heads and flow numbers. Engine Quest had the best numbers. I will try to post up online tomorrow.

 

Thank! I didn't realize that. Are you talking about the R/T heads, or the regular magnum heads? I thought they'd be a lot bigger than that.

 

Ok, so new plan (Plan 2b)...

408 with this crank... http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23242 and these pistons... http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...j&partid=10462 (should put it at about 9.5:1 compression with my newfound knowledge of how big the heads are :P )
And same cam/rockers as listed above with my factory heads with new valve seals and springs.

And this is the program that sounds about what I'll need:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___
B&G 408 Truck Flash (92-95 SBEC) (96-03 JTEC) - $350 flashed PCM or Flashed into Handheld ($650) includes shipping (Ground) (*)

This PCM upgrade is designed for vehicles that have installed “Stroked Motors” or highly modified with big cam or larger then stock injectors.

Revised premium fuel & timing tables (to accommodate big cam/large injectors)
Shift points raised to 5800 rpm
Rev limit raised to 6500 rpm
Torque management removed
Speed limit raised 140 mph
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____
Thanks Crazy!

I do have one more question... should I have them flash my current mopar performance computer or get this one, since it is designed for a manual trans... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Also, will it work with my '95 since it is for a '92-'93, and will it work with my truck because my truck has all the automatic transmission wiring harnesses and not the ones with the manual trans

 

With the power output this engine ought to have when its done, and the very low 1st gear of the NV3500, I've also been thinking of going with 2.93s or 3.21s to make 1st gear more useful, or 3.90s or 4.10s and starting in 2nd instead of 1st. Which do ya'll think I should go with, or I'm also open to other suggestions on how to make the best use of my drivetrain.

 

yeah, a lot of the time the rods are shorter for a stroker, but the pin is simply moved up on the "stroker" pistons in this application.
im not sure about the computers, im getting a MS this summer, so i can retune when ever for what ever future mods i put on with no need for any reflashes for a cam or different intakes ect. a flash will get you close, but will never be perfect unless its actually custom tuned and that flash is used, and next time you do a mod you have to pay to have it done all over again. (this is why i have a data logger on my bike, no need for custom dyno tunes for every new mod, i do it myself)
i think you just need bigger tires, but i may be biased lol. if 1st gear is allready low, i would go with higher gearing. if you know the gear ratio in first in an automatic and in the std, adjust the gearing in the diffs to make the final output the tires see in 1st match(or at least get them close). that way 1st feels like normal, but the rest of the gearing is higher to take advantage of the extra power

 

do you plan on swapping the front gears as well? or do you just plan on never having to use 4x4 ever again? lol

 

Front and rear gear, after doing a lot of searching, the only higher ratio I can seem to match up is 3.21s