You researched the Poly, I never said the Poly.


When did I call you out? Sorry, I'll let you run this forum with your knowledge. I apologize.

 

I didn't research the poly, I researched who makes what stroker kits for the 318s in general. There was the early model Poly 318, then came the LA block, then the Magnums. From what I found out, the Poly blocks and some of the early LA blocks are the only ones with thick enough cylinder walls to allow a .090 overbore. The typical later LA and Magnum 318s can only be bored to a max of 398 (.070 overbore) if that (like I said before, get it sonic tested before you order the pistons). I suppose there might be a few blocks that were cast well enough for a bigger overbore, but don't count on it. So to sum it up, if you have a good poly or early LA 318 you can make a 402 out of it, but that does not help anybody here because we all have late LAs or Magnums. I'm not going to tell someone on here they can make a 402 with their LA or Magnum 318 cause its unlikely to the point of being impractical or impossible.

As for the whole "calling me out" comment, your previous post came across to me like you were discrediting the info I gave, and if thats not what you meant by it I apologize.

 

Relax guys it's just a handy spreadsheet that shows bore, stroke and cubes . It does not mean they are all possible with any year block . That is why the stroker kits you see that are in stock are 30 over . Any block should be able to go 30 . In 76 all OEM engine castings went to thin wall technology . Even some heads became 6 lbs lighter . No magnum block will survive at 70 over unless you fill it with rock blok . You can bore newer block past .30 but not for high compression or a 4" stroke .

 

what would the cid be if you were to take a 93 318 and take it to a 4" bore but keep the stock stroke? just curious

 

It would be a 333, but like said before, its impossible to bore a newer block out that much without filling it... and then its impractical except for a race block.

Just in case anybody is interested but not the greatest at math, it's a simple formula... displacement = pi * (bore/2)^2 * (stroke) * 8

 

krc has balenced 390 stroker kits also, i presonally would never take any 318 over .60, even though i have seen an LA that was .80 over. that is getting down to notebook paper cylinder walls. thats a nice chart 95_318slt. i saved it as a pic and i tend to reproduce it with out you premission, lol. jk

 

Oh, but I already copywrited it so you'll have to pay me for it :P JK! It doesn't bother me at all. Here's the excel code if you want to reproduce the real thing...

For the Bore column, type in the number
For the Stroke column, type in the number
For the displacement column, type in this formula...

=(3.1415*(BORE/2)^2)*STROKE*8

where BORE and STROKE are the repective cells.

 

thanks man, that is saved now too.

 

For those interested, I found a guy here in SE Wisconsin selling a 4" stroker crank w/ 318 mains so long as we're on the topic... Is it typical for a crank to be balanced right away? If its used can it loose its balance?

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/1160491562.html

dbilik? wanna upgrade that shiny new v8 before it gets settled in? lol


I wouldn't mind that six pack either... all it needs is the Magnum bolt pattern and some injector bungs... w/ a set of F&B T-bodies

 

Sweet! Anybody who's interested in a cheaper way to stroke their 318 should consider that cause neither summitracing, hughesengines, or jegs sells those with the 318 mains! The only thing else you'd need would be pistons... and $600-$700 is much better than $1200-$1500 for a rotating kit!

You should definatley have the balance checked (they won't balance it if it doesn't need to be). The cost is worth peice of mind before you spend so much money on an engine and have it wear out prematurely because of balancing issues. The only thing I would be concerned with about a used crankshaft if it was stored right, cause if you lay them on their side, you can warp them.