Good buy dakota 1993 with 150 000miles?
Hi, I'm looking for a 1993 dakota 4x4 manual 3.9 with 242 000km, 150 000 miles
I'm planning to repaint the frame and i'd loke to know if this truck has any chance to live long or it will break and die in three months. Im paying it 1000 CAD, 860 USD, maybe less
http://paq.cablevision.qc.ca/images/photo_668391.jpg
Thanks
I'm planning to repaint the frame and i'd loke to know if this truck has any chance to live long or it will break and die in three months. Im paying it 1000 CAD, 860 USD, maybe less
http://paq.cablevision.qc.ca/images/photo_668391.jpg
Thanks
Sounds to me like a good deal! With those miles I'd worry about the tranny if it were an auto, but being a manual just be sure the clutch has some life left. As long as it was maintained, the engine should still have another good 100,000 miles left.
Just give it a good look over, and if you aren't mechanically inclined, have a mechanic you trust look over it. Some things to check would be fuel pressure, rear main seal, make sure the tansmission goes into gear easy and the clutch doesn't slip, make sure the transfer case shifts easy and 4x4 still works. Check the antifreeze level in both the radiator and overflow bottle. Run the check engine codes by cycling the key to on-off 3 times fast. Make sure it idles cold and drive it to be sure it gets up to temperature.
Just give it a good look over, and if you aren't mechanically inclined, have a mechanic you trust look over it. Some things to check would be fuel pressure, rear main seal, make sure the tansmission goes into gear easy and the clutch doesn't slip, make sure the transfer case shifts easy and 4x4 still works. Check the antifreeze level in both the radiator and overflow bottle. Run the check engine codes by cycling the key to on-off 3 times fast. Make sure it idles cold and drive it to be sure it gets up to temperature.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Jul 9, 2009 at 11:20 AM.
Looks like a good deal. Just like above, give it a good look around. When painting the frame, there are lots of products to coat the frame. They all work the same. It is the prepwork that makes it a quality job.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Jul 9, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
I dont know that you could successfully paint the frame properly with the body on it.
Sounds like a good deal to me provided I looked it over and the following passes:
-motor dosent "shake" when it idles
-no leaks underneath (if there are, some can be worse than others)
-idles cool (let it idle after test drive and stand and BS with the guy for like 15 minutes)
-accelerates smooth and dosent seem to "bog"
-shifts smooth through all gears. (should be able to pop through all gears smoothly with no grinding or hesitation)
-Check fluid levels and quality (a good sign of good or poor maintenance)
sounds like alot, but they are pretty quick things to look for and most of them, the guy wont even notice you are looking for like the engine shake, shifting, temp, acceleration, etc...
I doesn't matter how many miles, any 1st gen dakota is worth restoring in my opinion!!
He is right though, you'll need to at least prop the body up off the frame if not remove it completely.
He could possubly go to town with a case of spray cans of undercoating and hit 80% of whats needed, but for a full frame protection, you would need to lift the body. Which would be a good time to add a 2" body lift for less than $100, eh!?
Nice, thanks, happy earing that, i'll go to see it and probably buy it. I think i'll add air baloons someday so i'm not sure for lift kit, but i'll look for it, could be nice
Thanks
Thanks
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Haha, I just buy it for 650USD
It is going pretty well, only things I dont realy like are the stearing is loose a little bit and rear differential is a litle bit wet but doesn't leak.
Engine is running so well and tranny is perfect
It is going pretty well, only things I dont realy like are the stearing is loose a little bit and rear differential is a litle bit wet but doesn't leak.
Engine is running so well and tranny is perfect
Check out por15.com. Some really good stuff. It can be top coated too.
Oooooh... I knew I was forgetting something big!!! The loose steering is probably because it needs ball joints! These trucks are notorious for eating ball joints. If the edges of the tires are being eaten up faster than the middle, that is an even bigger sign that the ball joints are bad. Replace them, and if your up for it, maybe put on 4 new tie rods, and idler arm and pitman arm and she should drive like brand new.
But seriously, bad ball joints included, that is a sweet deal!!
But seriously, bad ball joints included, that is a sweet deal!!
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Jul 10, 2009 at 01:47 AM.



