Body Lift and Torsion Crank questions
#11
o right, he's got 31's, i forgot. I love the look of Dakota33's truck. He's got th same but with 33's. I just dont have enough money for 33's lol 250 a tire, plus i want 16 or 17" rims so i need more money for rims. I have 31" BFG M/T's right now so those will be fine til i get the money for 33's.
and, Im wanting to upgrade to 35" tire.. I know I can do shackle flip for rear.. but anyone? does anyone know what I can do for the front lol.. Im looking for something cheap.. not a straight axle or anything like that.. to hard to find. Does anyone know if its possible, but easily done to push the front axle ahead 1-2".. cause the main clearance problem im worried about is the back of the front fender.. and you cant cut into that because of the body mount.. but if needed you can cut into the front of the front fender. Because I know even the way my truck sits now, I can fit 35" on the back no problem.
#12
i suppose It depends on what you plan on using it for. My suspension up front is basiacally useless right now. Sure it will flex down, but not much and it will eat parts as it does it. As it sits it can flex up maybe a 1/2 inch.
Im not rock crawling or anything like that, but this is what Im looking at. Around here you can get dana 44's for 100-150 bucks complete with springs and steering arms. It will cost me maybe 30 bucks for steel to make my shackle hangers. Throw in some random unexpected parts for 100 bucks or so and Im at 250-300. Now look at it this way. My current axle needs a CV for at least the passenger side. Thats 60 bucks. I need all the tie rod ends replaced. To get decent ones thats easy 80-100. Then ball joints, for another 120. So to me its cheaper to do the swap.....but maybe not to others.
Moving your axle foreward would be nearly impossible. Thats not correct to say.....it would require TONS of fabrication. You would have to move your crossmember foreward the same amount so your tortion bars would stay at the same geometry. Redo all your mounts for your A arms. ......it wouldnt be fun.
Also Im going to trim the back of the front fender. Mine are rotted anyway. The body mount shouldnt bother anything.
Im not rock crawling or anything like that, but this is what Im looking at. Around here you can get dana 44's for 100-150 bucks complete with springs and steering arms. It will cost me maybe 30 bucks for steel to make my shackle hangers. Throw in some random unexpected parts for 100 bucks or so and Im at 250-300. Now look at it this way. My current axle needs a CV for at least the passenger side. Thats 60 bucks. I need all the tie rod ends replaced. To get decent ones thats easy 80-100. Then ball joints, for another 120. So to me its cheaper to do the swap.....but maybe not to others.
Moving your axle foreward would be nearly impossible. Thats not correct to say.....it would require TONS of fabrication. You would have to move your crossmember foreward the same amount so your tortion bars would stay at the same geometry. Redo all your mounts for your A arms. ......it wouldnt be fun.
Also Im going to trim the back of the front fender. Mine are rotted anyway. The body mount shouldnt bother anything.
#13
i suppose It depends on what you plan on using it for. My suspension up front is basiacally useless right now. Sure it will flex down, but not much and it will eat parts as it does it. As it sits it can flex up maybe a 1/2 inch.
Im not rock crawling or anything like that, but this is what Im looking at. Around here you can get dana 44's for 100-150 bucks complete with springs and steering arms. It will cost me maybe 30 bucks for steel to make my shackle hangers. Throw in some random unexpected parts for 100 bucks or so and Im at 250-300. Now look at it this way. My current axle needs a CV for at least the passenger side. Thats 60 bucks. I need all the tie rod ends replaced. To get decent ones thats easy 80-100. Then ball joints, for another 120. So to me its cheaper to do the swap.....but maybe not to others.
Moving your axle foreward would be nearly impossible. Thats not correct to say.....it would require TONS of fabrication. You would have to move your crossmember foreward the same amount so your tortion bars would stay at the same geometry. Redo all your mounts for your A arms. ......it wouldnt be fun.
Also Im going to trim the back of the front fender. Mine are rotted anyway. The body mount shouldnt bother anything.
Im not rock crawling or anything like that, but this is what Im looking at. Around here you can get dana 44's for 100-150 bucks complete with springs and steering arms. It will cost me maybe 30 bucks for steel to make my shackle hangers. Throw in some random unexpected parts for 100 bucks or so and Im at 250-300. Now look at it this way. My current axle needs a CV for at least the passenger side. Thats 60 bucks. I need all the tie rod ends replaced. To get decent ones thats easy 80-100. Then ball joints, for another 120. So to me its cheaper to do the swap.....but maybe not to others.
Moving your axle foreward would be nearly impossible. Thats not correct to say.....it would require TONS of fabrication. You would have to move your crossmember foreward the same amount so your tortion bars would stay at the same geometry. Redo all your mounts for your A arms. ......it wouldnt be fun.
Also Im going to trim the back of the front fender. Mine are rotted anyway. The body mount shouldnt bother anything.
Well I guess skip the idea about moving the front axle forward..
but about the front fender you will see what I mean when you start cutting the fender.. its really close.. and with a big tire, Its easy to hit that.. but I need to bring that front up more.. if I stay with the v6, the v8 torsion bars I heard will bring it up a little?
#14
#15
hey crazy.. where did you get the fron push guard for your truck?.. Its probly custom made to fit eh? I had an older dakota that i made an S10 one fit.. had to get it stretched wider but looked great.. just cant use it.. cause it took its fair share of rocks lol.. but now looking for something to support my lights.
#16
#18
Terra Grap's are just over $1,000 to get them up here from 4WheelParts. I got a quote from the Kal Tire here and its $1,200 for tires and mounting and balancing.
I'm likin the Hankook Dynopro M/T, im gunna go to the tire shop and get a quote on them.
I see what you mean with the 16 and 17" tires. But my pro paid $275 a tire for 33x12.5x15 Toyo M/T's so its pretty much the same price, if not a little bit cheaper then him for being a 15".
Does anybody know what offset those 2nd gen rims are? They seem way more offset then the 1st gen, probly cuz they are lol or does 95 318SLT have spacers?
I'm likin the Hankook Dynopro M/T, im gunna go to the tire shop and get a quote on them.
I see what you mean with the 16 and 17" tires. But my pro paid $275 a tire for 33x12.5x15 Toyo M/T's so its pretty much the same price, if not a little bit cheaper then him for being a 15".
Does anybody know what offset those 2nd gen rims are? They seem way more offset then the 1st gen, probly cuz they are lol or does 95 318SLT have spacers?
#19
RIght now Ive got a body lift and around 3" of suspension lift. Heres what it looks like with 31's. I dont like it. Ill be picking up my 33's and 35's in the next week....so Ill update pictures then. Just for giggles I included the pic before the body lift.
If I was going with 31's I wouldnt do a body lift.
On a side note, Im pulling the transmission and tcase today. The body lift did WONDERS for the amount of usable space down there. SOOOOOO much easier.
Also...FYI an engine hoist works amazing to lift your body without doing any damage. My high lift was gonna bend stuff up, and so was the tranny jack I tried. The hoist was perfect.
If I was going with 31's I wouldnt do a body lift.
On a side note, Im pulling the transmission and tcase today. The body lift did WONDERS for the amount of usable space down there. SOOOOOO much easier.
Also...FYI an engine hoist works amazing to lift your body without doing any damage. My high lift was gonna bend stuff up, and so was the tranny jack I tried. The hoist was perfect.