replacing clutch 93 dakota sport
Champion
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
You're going to want to remove the shifter boot assembly. Trust me, it makes it easier unbolting the shift tower from the top of the transmission. To get the ***** off, take a mini flat head screwdriver and pry out the caps, then take out the nut, and then unthread the shifter from the rod. Then pop out the shifter boot, then take out the nuts holding the trim peice on, then take out the screws holding the base plate on. Then you can get at the shifter tower bolts from the top and everything will be well out of your way.
The crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the engine at about the 10 oclock position inbetween the engine and the bellhousing. It doesn't HAVE to come out, it's just a saftey precaution so you break it while handling the transmission.
Trust me, save yourself a lot of trouble and a headache and take the transfer case off the transmission first. It makes it soooooo much easier to remove the transmission.
The crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the engine at about the 10 oclock position inbetween the engine and the bellhousing. It doesn't HAVE to come out, it's just a saftey precaution so you break it while handling the transmission.
Trust me, save yourself a lot of trouble and a headache and take the transfer case off the transmission first. It makes it soooooo much easier to remove the transmission.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
I just pulled my transmission back out yesterday (for the 3rd time this year). Here's the run down...
Jack up the front of the truck and take the wheels off, and remove the inner fender wells (makes getting to all the bolts at the back of the engine much easier)
Remove the front axle
Remove the front and rear driveshafts
Unplug the speedometer cable and wiring harnesses from the transfer case, then remove the transfer case
Remove the clutch slave cylinder, reverse light harness, and o2 sensor harness and tie them off out of the way
Remove the oil filter
Remove the starter and 2 brackets
Remove the dust cover
Remove the Y-pipe
Remove the crankshaft position sensor
Remove the shifter tower and cover the hole with a rag (you really don't want anything falling in there)
Unbolt and slide the transmission mounting crossmember back while supporting the transmission with a jack
Remove the bellhousing bolts while still supporting the transmission with a jack.
Navigate the transmission out of the transmission tunnel.
Jack up the front of the truck and take the wheels off, and remove the inner fender wells (makes getting to all the bolts at the back of the engine much easier)
Remove the front axle
Remove the front and rear driveshafts
Unplug the speedometer cable and wiring harnesses from the transfer case, then remove the transfer case
Remove the clutch slave cylinder, reverse light harness, and o2 sensor harness and tie them off out of the way
Remove the oil filter
Remove the starter and 2 brackets
Remove the dust cover
Remove the Y-pipe
Remove the crankshaft position sensor
Remove the shifter tower and cover the hole with a rag (you really don't want anything falling in there)
Unbolt and slide the transmission mounting crossmember back while supporting the transmission with a jack
Remove the bellhousing bolts while still supporting the transmission with a jack.
Navigate the transmission out of the transmission tunnel.
Champion
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Read #5 on that list. I did mention taking the transfer case out. Its a big PITA to get the transmission out with the t case still bolted to the back of it.
It took me about an hour and a half to do all that, but I have a lot of experience doing this particular job on my truck, and a 2 inch body lift to help me reach some of the top bolts, and a wide selection of air tools. I actually already have the transmission back in!
It took me about an hour and a half to do all that, but I have a lot of experience doing this particular job on my truck, and a 2 inch body lift to help me reach some of the top bolts, and a wide selection of air tools. I actually already have the transmission back in!
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Read #5 on that list. I did mention taking the transfer case out. Its a big PITA to get the transmission out with the t case still bolted to the back of it.
It took me about an hour and a half to do all that, but I have a lot of experience doing this particular job on my truck, and a 2 inch body lift to help me reach some of the top bolts, and a wide selection of air tools. I actually already have the transmission back in!
It took me about an hour and a half to do all that, but I have a lot of experience doing this particular job on my truck, and a 2 inch body lift to help me reach some of the top bolts, and a wide selection of air tools. I actually already have the transmission back in!
Last edited by shelbydaytona; Oct 14, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Southern Minnesota
having an issue with the bolts on the transfer case front shaft yoke. bolts wount come loose and everything I have tried doesn't work. socket seams to be my only way and can't get a rachet on it. I am thinking if I grind the heads off it will come apart and just replace the bolts and the straps.
it should work but just checking before I do it.
it should work but just checking before I do it.
Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska
Lol. The guy who cries about drama is causing it. Yay. Maybe 318 should Pm you all his responses in advance for your approval before posting.
If its the yoke on the transfter case end the are bolts. They are not straps like the front and rear, they are a hole with a bolt. So no, dont grind them off. There is an aluminum ring that keeps you from getting a socket on it, if you tap it lightly with a hammer all around it will slide back giving your 1/4 ratchet room to operate. Then use a good 6 point socket and that should get it. If you need to heat it up with a torch and try again. Heat does wonders, but use it carefully.
If its the yoke on the transfter case end the are bolts. They are not straps like the front and rear, they are a hole with a bolt. So no, dont grind them off. There is an aluminum ring that keeps you from getting a socket on it, if you tap it lightly with a hammer all around it will slide back giving your 1/4 ratchet room to operate. Then use a good 6 point socket and that should get it. If you need to heat it up with a torch and try again. Heat does wonders, but use it carefully.
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Southern Minnesota
yeah I hear yeah. money is tight and first time doing something to this extreme. The fact of doing it doesn't bother me its just no money if I screw up to the point that I will never have enough money to get it going again.
thanks again for all the help
thanks again for all the help
Champion
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
youre slowing down. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...to-remove.html what about removing inner fenders?
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Southern Minnesota
I may not be the best tool in the tool box. But at least i understand what i am doing. First time is a ***** and like 318 the more you do it the faster you get at it. Hopefully with a little luck will have my tranny out tonight.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Oct 15, 2009 at 03:03 AM. Reason: Edit Language